Bump.

So the 1.9 rockers are eliminated from the equation at the present time. They'll go on when I accrue the necessary funds, and the car will be ready for them at that time.

You can see my other thread for pics of the S/C. I'm ordering pretty much everything I need either tonight or tomorrow, and the plan is to replace the manifolds and crossover with what I have while the top of the engine is off. Might have to re-use the OEM crossover, as the other one has the bolts broken off in it. We'll see.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Dude, this is an intervention. You have to get headers, for your own good.

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02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

The thing is: I already have money invested in my 3" DP, as well as I have the spare set of manifolds here. It's gonna cost me $40 to weld/port/coat the manifolds, or $250+ for headers (Ideally I'd want SLP's/TOG's) and then I'd have to cut out what I already have, or modify it.

With my performance goals, the manifolds will get me there. Might not look as pretty or be AS fast as headers, but it's just not in the cards ATM.

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Dp is sellable, that $40 doesn't account for your time either. Its a judgement call I guess but it seems bang for buck the speeddaddy's are tough to beat. Over a year old an mine are just fine, no leaks and even the included flex pipe has held up.

I've just never been big on intermediate mods. I prefer to wait til I can jump to a goal.

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02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

I have always said my goal for this car is 13.999 in the 1/4, and whatever I need to do to get there is what I will. Travis ran/runs 13's on his 97 with just PEM's and 1.9's. I'm going to see if I can do it too.

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Not mod for mod. Your car is heavier with a worse center of gravity. 2k's don't tend to do quite as well.

Just prepare for that (and Travis rins on slicks).

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

No, I do realize that, but it will be close. IIRC Travis's best was 13.7? 13.9 should be do-able...

Couple More Questions: What amperage will I need for welding the manifold? I know it will be a little trial and error, but I'd rather be at least in the right range instead of burning through or having a cold weld.

Also, Randy: What's more fun and unique: Slapping on a set of headers that someone else made, or customizing a part to your satisfaction, using skills you've acquired? No one else will have a Hog Wild Motorsports PEM, at least for a while.

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Also he had an LSD and just had his trans rebuilt that week.

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Do all the doubting Thomas's have it out of their system yet? This is MY car, and I'm doing what's best for me, my budget, my skills and my goals.

Headers are great, they're just not in the cards right now, period. /end of discussion

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Just remember Ed when you weld cast iron you need to take it slow. You can't just lay down a bunch of beads. If you do it will end up cracking on you as it cools down.

Looking forward to your progress and pics. Hopefully I'll be doing mine soon too.

PEM's FTW!

Yup, my plan is to move from runner to runner and allow them to air-cool, taking my time. Maybe I'll do a little welding, go tear something off the car, go back & weld, tear something off the car, etc.

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Sounds like you've got it covered.
Just thought I would throw that out there.

No problem Bing, that info will be good for anyone who reads this in the future.

Just ordered (hopefully) everything else I need:
From Intense:
S/C Coupler change Kit (Coupler, oil, gasket maker)
Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
New Manifold to DP Gasket
New T-Stat
Stainless ARP Header bolts (little extra flash, ties everything together)

From Speedway:
Satin Header coating

I already have the S/C, TB and LIM Gaskets at home, along with the coolant elbows, RTV, coolant, nickel rod, sanding rolls and carbide burr. All I need are a new set of plugs (just for a little insurance) and a can of wrinkle coating.

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Not to bustonya, Ed, but don't get your hopes up. Your car DESIGN is at a disadvantage already from the 96-99 SSEi, and you're lacking a couple key mods in your comparison to Travis. Your 13.999 is a goal, but not a realistic one. My point is don't get your hopes to high. It's not really achievable.

Two PERFECT cars out of the factory with two robots programmed identically to drive them on the same perfectly prepared track....if the 97 pulls a 13.999, the 2k will not. You'll be a tenth or two shy because you cannot launch a 2k as hard. Travis has a couple key mods on top of that. The hole shot he gets with an LSD and slicks puts him in a different league, even if all your other mods are identical.

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

I realize this Bill. I'm not saying this round is going to get me there. If I need headers to get me there, along with rockers and a tune, then that will come in the future, when I have more money. These mods are what I can do now, and what I want for now.

I also think my car will beat Travis's right now, LOL. That and neither of his cars have LSD's anymore, lol. Unless he had the LSD swapped into trans #4 on the 97...

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I've yet to weld on anything cast iron. Should something like the header be pre-heated with a torch prior to putting beads down with an arc welder? I know I have to pre-heat large steel parts before trying to weld with the MIG (to get the steel up to temp quickly so the bead flows.)

How about bolting it to a junk cylinder head to keep the flange straight while working on the underside of the runner tubes?

Hmm... I'm eyeing up the stock iron header on the spare L67 in the garage.. hmmmm.

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Bye Bye 1990 Bonneville LE... Now it belongs to my daughter
In the Garage: 2009 Subaru Outback, 1987 Camaro, 2006 SV650S, 1995 Regal 182 "ASANAGI", 1962 Ford Galaxie 500, 1995 Ford F150 XL 4WD, 1953 Farmall Cub

Bolting the flange up or even clamping it well to a heavy work top is best, but more important for stainless. It was me that gave him the idea to work runner to runner, and back and forth. Too much heat on one at a time is a bad thing. If you're going to pre-heat first, I'd suggest the whole manifold or not at all. Baking any moisture out might be good, Cast Iron is somewhat porous, especially if it has casting flaws.

Nickel rod is a must. I sent him a pack.

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Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

I wasn't doubting, I just think that the LSD was a big advantage for his vehicle.

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I'll see what I can do with our metal welding bench, probably be able to clamp it under the lip.

Baking isn't a bad idea, I can throw it in my mom's "spare" oven for a bit to bake the water out of the pores at least, get the surface up to 220* or so.

EDIT: I have a big stick of 1.5" square tubing lying at home. I'll cut a piece off and drill and tap that and bolt the manifold to, to prevent warping, then clamp it in the bench vice for easy access.

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Just had a thought here, would it be a bad idea to use stainless hardware to hold the LIM and S/C down? I'd just get it from Fastenal, using the original bolts as the guides for thread pitch and length. I know I'll have to use anti-sieze on all of them, but I want everything too look nice and somewhat match, considering I'm getting stainless bolts for the front manifold and have the stuff from Bill for the S/C.

Thoughts/Opinions?

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock