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 Post subject: Thermostat questions..
PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 3:46 pm 
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Location: Ypsilanti, Mi
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So my thermostat is going bad and I need to figure out which one to get. There are different degrees and I have no clue which I should get. Can somebody give me a quick rundown on thermostats??

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 4:04 pm 
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Location: Starbuck, MN/Grand Forks, ND
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195 degrees is the stock thermostat. Some people run a 180 degree to keep it cooler. A 160 degree is for heavily modded engines.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 4:47 pm 
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Location: Powell River BC - 7 time WCBF Survivor
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I got the same question yesterday from my daughter who inherited my 94 SSEi.

"Daddy, how come the heater doesn't work when it's -35C outside?"

Cause I installed a 180 stat my dear.

Great for the summer but too cold for sub zero temps.
Around here on the coast where the temp rarely goes below freezing, it's fine to go 180F all year round. I run 160's in all my summer driven vehicles.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 6:48 pm 
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Given your mod list <or lack there of> along with your typical climate, I would have to recommend the 195* for your application.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:25 am 
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I run a 180° year round in MN and my car gets plenty warm, even when it's well below 0°F. It's only 15° difference, not like a hundred. I don't see how it makes a difference. When my stock 195° was bad and the car only got to 160 degrees, yeah, that was cold, not to mention it threw P0128 almost daily, but it's been perfect ever since. Do a good coolant flush with a "Mixes with Any Color" coolant and install either a 195 or a 180. Either should be fine.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:37 am 
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I put my 195 back. I have a half hr commute and in the last 7days the temp has dropped to 20 or so. I could not get warm at all the whole drive. I replaced my radiator a few moths ago and with the 180 stat my temps always ran at about 150 unless I was in the city. Anyway that extra 15 degree rating made all the diff. Use a new gasket and o-rings if you can get them.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:39 am 
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Um, I'm guessing you had a bad 180* then. My temps are always 180*-185 on the highway, no matter the speed.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:49 am 
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Well here's the story 00Beast: Last year my car ran and leveled out at 210 (according to my meter). That is with the an undrilled 180 STANT T-Stat bought 2 years prior. I then replaced my Radiator this summer. After that the meter read 140 - 150 after the car was fully warm, actually. In the city with traffic lights and stop and go congestion it might get up to 200 and if I used my fan override it would drop back down to that level and stay there. So the 150 temp did not produce enough warmth in the cabin. That's when I went to the 195. Now it hovers at 195 unless I am in heavy traffic then it jumps up to about 210. I do have an air mix problem in my heater. My left side gets less heat than the right. Don't think that's the reason though. Don't know if my dash meter is right or not. Will my Actron III give me a more accurate reading?

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Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 12:58 am 
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I still think your thermostat was bad. Your radiator might have been plugged, causing the higher temps. A 180* thermostat should have the coolant at 180* or higher. If not, it should close until the coolant gets back to that temp, then open again. That's its one and only job. Were these readings according to your stock gauge?

If your Actron shows live data, it should show whatever the temp sender is reporting to the PCM.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 1:05 am 
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A new 180 would be an easy check. I can try my scan gauge too.

Does the car run smoother at 180 coolant temp?

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked

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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 1:21 am 
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I haven't noticed a difference in smoothness, it's mostly about KR and a little better performance.

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Sirius wrote:
Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 1:50 am 
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So do I get out the turkey timer and check it out or do I just buy one?

K

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked

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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 4:10 pm 
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The stock gage and the scanner data match throughout the cycle except at one point the scanner was reading 180 and the gage read 150 for a few minutes. Maybe it is the gage?

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked

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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 4:58 pm 
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I had a 180* stat installed in my Bonneville, I never had any problems with it not getting warm enough even when it was well below 0*.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 5:01 pm 
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what year was your bonneville?

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2001 Bonneville SSEi. 1598xx mi.
great car. Wrecked

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Burnt Bonny.

Note if you pull the injectors to obserbe fuel delivery...make sure you leave the plugs in and disconnect the ign. Believe me


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 27, 2010 5:42 pm 
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Mine? 1993 SSEi.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2010 11:45 am 
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Spoiledred, let's try not to hijack this topic. It sounds like you have an issue that needs to be troubleshot seperately.

To the author: I run a 180° in 2 of my cars year-round. Both are drilled in varying degrees. The SLEeper for slight bleed/bypass (performance) and the Schooner for burping air bubbles to the radiator when the thermostat is closed. I have no problems with either of those cars in the winter (yes, Oregon does get cold).

The ZiLLA runs a pretty heavily drilled 160°, and I wouldn't suggest that option for any winter driver or even daily driver unless modified very well including a PCM tune or some kind of fan control.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 12:41 am 
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Think you could get warm at -50F

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 1:14 am 
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We had -45F temps and my car still heated up fine w/ a 180 Sadden. That was after sitting out all day.

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Sirius wrote:
Think about it. You’re tooling down the road in your Prius, knowing full-well that this thing being green is as big a sham as federally mandated ethanol-enriched gas, Russia pulling out of Ukraine, and Obamacare.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 01, 2010 10:16 pm 
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Well thats not to bad then maybe ill try it out in the GXP. Not really planning on putting too much money into the ssei. It gonna become the gfs dd

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94 SSEi NGK Plugs , Blue Streak Wires , Pulled Maf screen , Custom Exhaust , Raybestos Brakes , 12" MTX Audio sub and amp , Piaa Plasma Ion Foglight Housings , HIR His' and Lows' , Tinted Tails


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