This has definitely had me stumped, and I've been meaning to get the electronic portion of service manual, but maybe there is someone out there that can clear this up in the meantime.

So my interior lights are on all the time, but only if the key trigger is pressed in the ignition (I leave keys in ign 99% of the time). Also the chime for door open key in, if thats on the lights are on. Sometimes a hard bump in the road shuts lights off, but for the most part they are on. Switch on dash for dome light has no effect unless lights were actually off, but then they usually don't turn off. Now here's where it gets weird. Some time about 2 years ago the stereo acc circuit quit working. Figured it was my fault with wiring or aftermarket deck so I just setup hardwired straight to battery and turn it on and off manually. Occasionally now the deck turns on and off with IGN, maybe once in 6mo or so. My ECC does not work, it flashes codes pretty much constantly. Pretty much like it's losing power while driving and then refreshing like ign was just turned on however display always says ambient temp, which is usually wrong. It was stuck on ~80* for about 6mo and worked that problem out on its own. Heater core bypassed so can't comment on heat, but A/C is functional as a system, but never works on ecc. Won't go to auto only to econ and auto fan is never auto, usually won't let me turn up past lowest or second lowest fan setting, dual climate control lights up but doesn't do anything, and if it's raining (wipers on) it will beep and beep all day long but never display anything I'm pressing, merely stay on ambient temp but fan MAY come on in background but then never shut off til display responds again which could be hours or days. And cig lighter, forget about it. It gets voltage, will light up a phone charger but it won't actually flow any current. I should mention the more things that mess up inside, like lets say I just happened to be as ballsy as trying to charge my phone, run the wipers (which are hardwired as delay module is faulty, but still functions off multifunction lever, just they are either on or off no delay high/low, but if I select high the column starts smoking a light electrical smoke like the 24ga wires are being asked to provide current) and windshield defrost the car will run smooth but makes no power and cycles a/c on and off like it's super low on freon but it's definitely not. No codes, nadda.

So if I still have you here, theres one more kink in the hose. If I am manually shifting (I frequently pull an ~800lb loaded trailer), and select 1st it will guaranteed reset ecc (like I said it's refreshing as if fresh ign on) and very frequently engine runs less powerful until it clears out around 3k and then slams power like trans is shuddering (doubtful it is).

Been here before with trans solenoid/ecu issues, and have rechecked all my grounds once again. And on top of it all, because of stereo there are extra motor/body/battery grounds all around, so I have a very efficient operating electrical system. Barely a .4v drop at rear batteries and .2-.3v drop at underhood battery on VERY hard sub hits, I don't bang that hard often. This was not always the case, I've had bad batteries and alternators for years now. It's all worked out now, but I can only imagine some of the extra stress it has put on electrical system in the past.

I'm pretty sure it's the ignition switch deep in column, so sure I even bought a delco replacement already. However, like a lot of us out there, time isn't always on my side. Now that I know what to do, leaving ecc off and pulling most interior light bulbs, I never have any driveability problems. But I have time now, and with love you have to always give back at some point.

_________________
'92 Park Avenue - 220k project daily driver. Cheap and stock, the way it shouldn't be.
'78 AMC Concord - .450/.450" cam, ported everything, swirl ports, degreed cam, HEI dist, and way too small a carb to feed this beast. Needs sheetmetal, radio, better radiator fan, p/s gearbox seals, harmonic balancer, and maybe some gauges like a speedo or tach. 0-60 in 6.7s if the tires hook. For sale, make me an offer.

Eeesh, IDK. But here's a bump.

_________________

WHITE WHINE - 1992 SSE Supercharged 236.26 ci (.040 Over) 15.090 at 90.2 MPH on old engine w/ slipping trans & melted O2 sensor - Gen 3 M62 and matching TB, Gen 2 Pully, Zillamotorsports Ported LIM, YT 1.72 Roller Rockers, SII FPR & Injectors, Hypertech Thermomaster chip w/ 160 Thermo, TransGo Shift Kit, Infinity/Pioneer Speakers & a 10" Alpine Type R Sub, all the watts, 140 amp Alternator, Ricepipe CAI w/ heatshield, Pilot Angel Eye Foglights, Clear Corners, '02 17" Chrome Bent 5's, Magnaflow F-Body Muffler and Hi-flo Cat, Ceramic Coated Ported Exhaust Manifolds, Fan Override, Monroe Reflex struts, red calipers
2009 G8 GT - Sport Red Metallic, loaded, SOLO Axlebacks, Rotofab Intake, Tuned, autodim mirror, removed intake manifold cover, HSV GTS triple gauge pod, two tone red-hot shifter and HSV SuperSport steering wheel, GXP rear sway bar and diffuser, 3.45 diff and various Camaro suspension bits, LED Taillights

I pulled interior lights fuse and now ecc beeps but doesnt light up and ac stuck on low windshield defrost. Hmm does ecc have multiple fuses? Or do I have a melted fuse box or the like (have had two gm's 20yrs apart melt fuse boxes) so it wouldn't surprise me.

_________________
'92 Park Avenue - 220k project daily driver. Cheap and stock, the way it shouldn't be.
'78 AMC Concord - .450/.450" cam, ported everything, swirl ports, degreed cam, HEI dist, and way too small a carb to feed this beast. Needs sheetmetal, radio, better radiator fan, p/s gearbox seals, harmonic balancer, and maybe some gauges like a speedo or tach. 0-60 in 6.7s if the tires hook. For sale, make me an offer.

Sounds like you have a ground issue. On malfunctioning modules, use a DMM diode check (the ones that beep are nice) to verify that every ground wire is a complete circuit to body ground. Make a new clean ground point on the body to check on if you need to. There are several merging points for the ground wires, usually called ground busses. There is one on each side in the front at the floor pan next to the front of the door opening. There are several body ground points under the hood too. They could be corroded.

Check for signs of mice under the dash. They like to chew wires and can cause all sorts of gremlins. Also I think the ecc, like many of the modules in the car, draws power from both the battery circuit and the 'key on' circuit.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67