My security light stays on. It started one really cold day in winter and now it wont go away. The car functions fine with it on - all doors lock with the remote, and all doors will set off the alarm (if opened when the car is locked).
I have tried disconnecting the battery for a day.
Any ideas what to do?

Thanks

May be an ignition lock cylinder that the security wiring is partially broken. still making contact in crank position but not run position.

My parents 99 SSEi does the same thing... They don't seem to mind it being on..

_________________
2005 Bonneville GXP Fully Loaded

same thing here most the time. Sometimes goes away for awhile then comes back for a while.

_________________
DHP Powrtuner & Tech 2
1998 GTP Coupe
1999 SSEi 70k miles
2000 Silverado 2500 Ext Cab 4x4/6.0L/4L80E
2000 Trans Am WS6 LQ3 (LQ4 w/LS3 top end) 4L60E
2001 SLE
2002 Monte Carlo SS Top-swapped FSIC Gen V TOG's, Mezeire.....
2002 GTP 40th Anniv Ed Coupe
2004 GTP Comp G 'Bottom-swapped'

The most likely culprit is the trunk lock tamper switch. There's a small metal tab attached to the trunk lock tumbler (where you put your key) that is designed to let go (or release a cable) if the lock is tampered with. The cable actuates a switch by providing a ground, and setting the security light.

The easy fix is to simply disconnect the wire. You'll have to remove the trunk lid carpet (if equipped) to find it. It'll be between the 'layers' of the trunk lid itself. Follow the cable from the lock to the electrical (single wire) connector, and disconnect it at that point. Cycle the ignition once, and see if the light goes out, or simply inspect to see if the tab/cable has broken off the lock tumbler.

This is one possibility in a system that is very hard to troubleshoot, but is the most likely/common failure.

_________________

Click here for mod list for both cars
93 SSEi, 95 SLE (supercharged) 97 Buick LeSabre Limited
PontiacDad at WCBF '04: Cruise control? That's like surrendering!
Comprehensive guide to troubleshooting, rebuilding, and modifying Eaton Superchargers

Thanks for all the replies. I disconnected the trunk tamper lock wire, but the security light is still on. Is there a similar wire for the driver's side or passenger's side key locks?

There are many wires/connections that influence the security light. The FSM lists steps to track down the reason the security light staying on

Here are the beginning steps for the procedures:

Security light
System Check procedures -

To begin:
1. Put ignition switch in RUN position (engine NOT running)
2. Close front doors
3. Unbuckle seat belts
4. Set park brake off

"SECURITY" indicator should light for approximately five seconds.


if "Security" indicator remains on or does not operate properly:

Perform PASS-II Diagnostic System Check:
- Check for PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes
- Attempt to start vehicle
- Note "Security System" indicator while cranking engine.

Did engine start?

No or Yes

I am assuming your engine starts so we will say "Yes"

Did the indicator turn on for approximately 5 seconds then turn off?

No or Yes

I am assuming "No"

Did the indicator stay "on" steady (vs. flashing, i assume)?

No or Yes

If no, then:
- check indicator "lamp"/bulb
- Check for an open circuit in CKT 264
- If, previous 2 are ok, then replace PASS-Key II Decoder Module

If yes, then:
Go to chart #1

Chart #1:
- Ignition switch "off"
- Disconnect the "Pass-Key II Decoder Module Connector"
- Ignition switch "on"

Does security indicator turn off?
No or Yes?

if "Yes", then, Pass-key II decoder module is not programmed or there is a system malfunction while the engine is running. Refer to Chart #4. (I can add this later if needed)

if "No", then:
Is vehicle equipped with Universal Theft Deterrent (UA6)

if “No” to UA6, repair short to ground in CKT 264

if “Yes” to UA6, then disconnect "Remote Function Actuator (RFA) Module Connector.
Does "Security" indicator turn off?

Yes, then replace RFA Module (I can look this up, too, if needed)

No, repair short to ground in CKT 264.

WARNING: If you are going to disconnect the PKII module connector as described in Chart #1, then, I need to post a warning. FSM says disable SIR (airbag) system to avoid accidental deployment. The PKII module is either "under" or "Near" the passenger side airag. If you are going to start disconnecting PKII and RFA stuff, please disconnect the SIR. I don't want to be responsible for any bonne damage/personal injuries.[/quote]

_________________
"Really Not Stock Anymore" Bob and most recently renamed, "Chief BadLifter"
Best ¼ ET=13.674, Best 60’=2.122, Best Trap=102.26 mph Pacesetter headers (2.5" outlet), Magnaflow hi-flo cat, INTENSE FWI w/K&N 9" cone, ZZP XP cam, INTENSE OR pushrods, Comp 105 springs, Autolite 103 plugs, Stoppenbach tuned PCM

Something quick and might be an easy fix, is hold the lock and unlock button at the same time until the car beeps. It resyncs the remote to the car. Might not do anything to help your problem, or it might.

I have read about this before on websites and it means the VATS system is malfunctioning. Thats odd that everything still functions correctly with it on though. Reset your codes.

_________________

I tried that with no luck.

Thanks for the tip.

The VATS has 4 modes for failure. One of those is where the resistance changed so it goes into a mode where it doesn't work to turn off injectors and starter relay; it just ignores bad resistance reading from the key.

A quick try might be to bypass the VATS wires to the ignition lock cylinder with the proper resistors at the base of the steering column where the lock cylinder wires go into a connector. That might be your problem.

My 98 leSabre had the security light come on occasionally while driving. It had started sometimes requiring a second try to crank--it just didn't seem to get the reading from the key when I pushed the key in and quickly turned to crank. But it didn't lock out for 3 minutes. Then one day it just stayed on and car started fine. And later the light is off and never comes on.

Note, my car does not have the body tampering theft sensors. I ordered the car without that intentionally. That adds another factor to your troubleshooting.

I read that some people cut the wires to the lock cylinder with the engine running to fool the TDM into thinking it had failed and go into the do nothing failure mode. I can't recall the Bonneville discussion that was in and it was a couple or three years back.

I tried using my spare key, which is brand new since I haven't used it in 10 years, light is still on. Perhaps the system needs to be reset somehow to get it back into the correct mode?

I guess I should start working through the diagnostics flowchart that was posted above. I just have to figure out how to disable the airbags first before going poking around in the vicinity.

Dealer quoted me $200+ to diagnose and fix plus parts, which he said could be many hundreds $$.

Thanks

matt