I wonder if your small vacuum leak has become large vacuum leak. Connecting a vacuum gauge could rule out this & the evap canister.

Any updates?

Your scan showed 10.7 volts at the battery. A battery that's too weak to turn the engine over should still show over 12 volts. I seem to recall that some PCM/ECM's will shut down if the voltage is too low. Do you have another battery you can try?

The ICM grounds through the mounting bracket. Try removing the ICM & the mounting plate from the mounting bracket. Clean all the corrosion from the mounting bracket, both sides of the mounting plate & the bottom of the ICM. Lightly coat all 4 surfaces with dielectric grease & reassemble.

PS - There ...

Maf is another suspect even though you changed it a couple years ago. What brand did you get?

If you haven't already then try slipping off the serpentine belt & see if that helps.

Was the car running & then wouldn't start next time you went to use it or did it stall & never restart?
What's it feel like when you rotate it backwards & then forward? Any noises?

If slipping off the serpentine ...

Sounds like its hydrolocked. Pull the plugs & retry turning it over by hand.

I've only had one car with a bad booster & it's just like Crash said. You'll hear hissing in the cabin & the pedal will have a stiffer feel. Mine only seemed to leak when the pedal was pressed & it kind of felt like the pedal was pushing back when it started leaking.

You need to get a scanner on ...

Have him check for 12 volts at small ( purple IIRC) wire on the starter when the key is turned to start. This will help narrow down the problem.

Some of the symptoms sound like you might have a plugged catalytic converter. Have you heard any sounds like marbles in a tin can or whooshing from the tailpipe. You might want to try to shake the cat & see if you can hear any rattling.

There's less of a load on the engine when in reverse or ...

I don't see how moving a spark plug wire could cause p0201. I'd check the pink injector wire for 12 volts with the key on or check fuel injector pulse with a node light or #194 light bulb. I'd also compre the resistance of #1 injector with another.

You could also swap #1 with another injector ...

Next time it happens try starting with the gas pedal to the floor. This is known as the clear flood mode. If that seems to help then we'll have you check some things that could be causing it to flood.

What's the part number of the pump that NAPA is giving you?

I'd check for power at the fuel pump relay. Should have 12 volts for 2 seconds when the key is turned to run & continuous power while in start position. Can you hear/feel the relay click when the key is turned? Did the NAPA pump come with a new electrical connector for the pump?

If I remember ...

It really does sound like the starter is going. Either the brushes or the solenoid aren't making a good electrical connection every time.

You are correct that it’s possible to have enough current for lights & radio but not enough for the starter

If you want to diagnose this more then you should ...

You still haven't made it clear whether or not the starter is turning over the engine when it doesn't start.

Check for fuel injector pulse next.
A running fuel pump doesn't mean you have the proper pressure.

A negative fuel trim means its running rich. I find it strange that it sounds like you fixed a vacuum leak & the fuel trim went leaner. Are you sure the trims are negative?

I'd get a scan of the MAF sensor at idle & cruising at 60 mph.

Driver's side ground bus. Windows, locks & fuel pump are a few of the things that share that ground. They get wet & corrode - common problem.

He who asks a dumb question is a fool for five minutes; he who does not ask a question remains a fool forever.

It's on the belt side behind the harmonic balancer.