PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Thanks Crash. I ordered what Andrew had on his page (link was listed above). It appears to be both front and rear calipers, both with brackets, shoulder bolt, and brake lines. Andrew told me that everything is pretty much "bolt on" but to be honest, I will probably have the dealer/repair shop do this (if they will) since I need to send the car in anyways.

Are the rotors mentioned above (http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-4-PE ... e1&vxp=mtr) what I need? I'm not sure how to "make sure" they will work since the page doesn't list sizes, only the car model. I'm ready to make my purchase though so if someone knows?

The stock pads on my 2008 Torrent are Ceramic all around. Still half life left in them last checked.

Looks like EBC shows the 2005 GXP rotors as 12.7" and 11.7". Does this sound right?

Yeah, that sounds right. Everyone rounds up. I thought it was 12.9, but if EBC lists it, then I trust that.

Think I'm gonna get the EBC Rotors and Brake Pads.

Which pads? I had the Red Stuff on my SSEi, and wasn't a huge fan. Too aggressive for the street, really...

I was just reviewing your old post actually. I did indeed order the red. :X

They have a free shipback policy though (which is actually quite impressive) so I can send them back when I get them. What was your issue with the reds? They were at least affordable, for pads. Too bad the others aren't ceramic. Could you see the color when they were installed - that's the reason I didn't go with green/yellow.

Let me know if this makes any sense, but I had a bunch of stuff being done for my car today so I figured I would have them do the brakes too...

I was told they were having a few issues, namely that the bleeder screw in the caliper is cracked and they need to remove it and get a new one. I was also told that something with the brake pad did not come with it so they need to find that. Finally, they said that they were having an issue trying to mount them with the current brackets. I got EBC Redstuff and EBC Drilled and Slotted Rotors.

This is why, IMHO, when you start modding like this, you need to start doing things yourself...

00Beast wrote:This is why, IMHO, when you start modding like this, you need to start doing things yourself...

Honestly I probably wouldn't have had a clue what to do to begin with on this one.

I'm told both front calipers will not work since the bleeder screws in both of them are stuck and broken and unable to be removed. The rears were fine. I'm going to see if Andrew will accept a return for both fronts.

They're going to get new GXP fronts and put them on for me...not sure if they'll be red or not.

I find it hard to believe the front bleeders can't be removed. There are all kinds of tools designed to do that, and a little heat and penetrating oil go a long way...

My repsonse:

A broken bleeder screw is a silly reason to want to return the calipers. The bleeder screws can be easily replaced. If it is stripped, it can be drilled out and re-tapped. If you want to go through the hassle of sending them back, I can do the work. I will fix the bleeder screws and send them back. If for any reason I can't repair them, I will refund you for them. I just think it would be easier to have someone there do the work instead of dealing with the shipping and waiting.

LOL seized bleeder screws are very common on calipers. I always apply anti-seize to the threads and that works for years.
One of the reasons I always rebuild my own calipers.
The last pair of used calipers I bought....for the Goose....one had an oversize bleeder screw that was obviously re-drilled and tapped due to seizure.

I'm still learning all about this stuff. I can fix computers and your company's network infrastructure, but I wouldn't know where to start with this. I had just assumed everything was ready to go on but we'll see what they did when I get back.

I once gave up on a caliper on the GXP because an oxy-acetylene torch, penetrating oil, and an easy-out didn't budge a thing. I mangled the bleed screw, and broke the easy out They were rear calipers though, and when the other side wound up being seized, I just decided to replace the pair.

That said, drilling and tapping should work if you want to salvage the calipers. For the shop, it seems way more cost effective for them to drill/retap, than shipping them back to Andrew to fix. I just think they don't want to accept the liability if something else goes wrong.

As long as you have tools, or can rent them, and know how to turn a wrench, that is what the Club is for. Post your progress and the group can guide you along the way. That's what I did and it worked out just fine.

Are those calipers made of iron or aluminum?

Apparently new front brakes are $77/ea. They charged me $75 for them (they lost money). They also said the brake manufacturer would take back the broken calipers and pay out $105 for them...seems well worth it if you ask me - except they need to be painted or they will rust.

Now I understand this a little bit more. Here's the important stuff pulled from the mechanic:

FOUND REAR BRAKES HAD NO BRAKE PAD ABUTTMENT CLIPS SO REAR BRAKE PADS WERE VERY LOOSE AND RATTLING, NECESSARY TO PURCHASE NEW ABUTTMENT CLIPS FOR BOTH REAR BRAKE CALIPER BRACKETS, HAD TO REMOVE REAR BRAKE CALIPERS AND BRACKETS TO GRIND SMOOTH THE RUSTED REAR BRACKETS SO ABUTTMENT CLIPS WOULD FIT PROPERLY AND NOT CONTACT ROTOR. ***ALSO HAD TO CUT REAR BACKING PLATES TO FIT NEWER STYLE REAR BRAKE ROTORS

UNABLE TO FREE UP FROZEN FRONT BLEEDER SCREW ON DRIVERS SIDE CALIPER AND PASSENGERS SIDE CALIPER BLEEDER SCREW WAS STRIPPED INTERNALLY SO WE HAD TO REMOVE BRAKE CALIPRS AND INSTALL NEW BRAKE CALIPERS AND BRACKETS AND BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM

***REAR BRAKE CALIPERS WOULD NOT RELEASE WHEN EMERGENCY BRAKE CABLES WERE INSTALLED DUE TO INTERNAL PROBLEM IN RELEASE MECHANISM OF REAR CALIPERS

So that pretty much sums it up in their terms. The stopping power now is actually quite fantastic. I'm very impressed. I can't believe GM never put these sized brakes on to begin with...

Here are pics installed of the "newly purchased" front calipers and the back calipers without proper emergency brake setup. Sorry for the nasty Massachusetts weather. Do the front "silver" calipers look like they're powdercoated silver? I was told that they're aluminum and will need to be painted or they will rust, but I can't imagine they would sell calipers without putting some type of coating on them?:

Aluminum doesn't rust. It corrodes. That said, my aluminum calipers on the G8 only seem to get dirty over time. They are not painted as far as I know.

You were missing these:

Not all brands of pad include those clips. I still stand by my point:

That said, drilling and tapping should work if you want to salvage the calipers. For the shop, it seems way more cost effective for them to drill/retap, than shipping them back to Andrew to fix. I just think they don't want to accept the liability if something else goes wrong.

Caliper replacement is the cover-your-ass way out. Drilling and tapping your existing calipers was a risk they didn't want to take. Your work order looks pretty par for the course.