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Another thing you might try, if the bass still isn't what you think it should be is switching the wiring again. Now that you have the two rear speakers "in phase", they may still be out of phase with the rest of the speakers in the system. Although this usually has much less effect compared to having the rear speakers out of phase with each other, having both rear speakers out of phase from the rest of the system can still cause some cancellation.

If you switch the positive and negative connections on both new speakers, you may get a little more bass from your system overall. It's also possible that you won't notice much difference at all. It's worth a try though.

Adam

I forgot to tell you, most newer gm cars use the same connectors, except not built onto the speaker,


so you can cut them out and plug them into the bose plug and hok the bare wires up to your speakers, they also make it clear what is positive because they are red and black

Another thing you might try, if the bass still isn't what you think it should be is switching the wiring again. Now that you have the two rear speakers "in phase", they may still be out of phase with the rest of the speakers in the system. Although this usually has much less effect compared to having the rear speakers out of phase with each other, having both rear speakers out of phase from the rest of the system can still cause some cancellation.

Yes, that's what I did. The first time I had them both backwards. The second time one was backwards.
Now they are correct. Thanks.

I cut the stock connectors out and wired directly to each speaker.

Now the limitations of the 5" and 6" door speakers are very pronounced.

reference 5022i's and 6022i's here...

reference 5022i's and 6022i's here...

On order from Crutchfield for the same price as I paid for the 9022i's.

Tell me more about the potential of upgrading the OEM amp with a newer OEM that has more output wattage.
I don't want to change the HU because I can't do without the steering wheel controls.

hey, PM me I got the module to keep the steering controls that I'm not using anymore that I'm willing to part with...

EDIT: it works with pioneer and sony

OK

2000Silverbullet wrote:What do you mean by sheilded? I don't see anything special about the OEM's.

(Because nobody answered this. . .)

Paul, speakers that are advertised as "shielded" mean they are *magnetically* shielded. The typical reason for making speakers magnetically shielded was so that you could use them near a CRT television in an audio/video entertainment system without the speaker magnets throwing off the color and display of the TV (which is drawn by a scanning electron beam controlled by electromagnets). It's not such a big deal now that we have LCD and plasma televisions. In a car, the reason for shielding would probably be to not throw off the built-in compass, if the car has that as an option.

The magnetic shielding isn't shielding like a physical metal shield, it is accomplished by taking a less-powerful donut magnet and attaching it to the back of the speaker's main voice coil magnet, but with reversed polarity. This puts the poles North-to-North and South-to-South, which makes the magnets want to repel each other, so the magnets are attached to each other typically with cyanoacrylate (a.k.a. superglue) or epoxy. If you examine a bare speaker that is shielded, you'll see the extra magnet glued onto the back of the regular magnet. The main magnet still does its thing with the voicecoil, but the shielding magnet cancels out the strong magnetic field surrounding the outside of the speaker. If there is any residual field, it is so much smaller than the non-canceled field that for practical purposes it won't have an effect on things like a CRT television, or your car compass. There are other shielding methods that involve surrounding the magnet with high-magnetic-saturation material (steel is one example.) Speakers shielded that way generally look like a normal speaker with the magnet hidden inside something that looks like a tin can. The high-saturation material tends to suck up all the magetic field within its own material (like those iron based toroid thing they put around AC power cords).

Here you can see the extra donut magnet on the back of a shielded Klipsch woofer:

Thanks for the explanation Mark. It makes perfect sense.

The Bose speakers were not shielded, neither are the Infinities.

No matter, the compass has been recalibrated and all is fine now with no problems.

Thanks again to all for the help.

I'll probably be asking again for help when I try for the first time to remove the 00 door panels.
....but that won't be for a couple of weeks until the speakers arrive.

I have noticed after living with the new Infinity 6x9 rear speakers that their gain is not as much as the original Bose rears and the other door speakers are louder.

The new Infinity door speakers have arrived.
WTF, they don't even include the wire connectors! Now I have to go buy some.

Am I to suspect that the new Infinity door speakers will also have less gain than the Bose?
I see that the speaker magnets of the Infinity and Bose speakers are the diameter/size.

Now am I going to have to install another amp??!!

I got the door panels off so no help needed there.

you shouldn't experience any volume loss with the other speakers they should however greatly improve clarity. I have a theory on why you lose volume on the 6x9's. I am thinking that the amp is not a 6 channel but really a five channel. and the rear deck speakers are wired as one mono speaker that is combined @ 2 ohms. so when you change the speakers it's really doubling the impedance of the factory ones and that's why you lose some volume. if you want to test this theory unplug one speaker and see if the sound in the other one is affected.


remember if you find a grand prix in the Jy you can cut the connectors off it's speakers and have plug and play connectors for the new speakers

swampthing wrote:I have a theory on why you lose volume on the 6x9's. I am thinking that the amp is not a 6 channel but really a five channel. and the rear deck speakers are wired as one mono speaker that is combined @ 2 ohms. so when you change the speakers it's really doubling the impedance of the factory ones and that's why you lose some volume. if you want to test this theory unplug one speaker and see if the sound in the other one is affected.

The speaker wiring diagrams are pretty specific in the factory service manuals. I don't have the FSM for Paul's year, but people who have the FSM should be able to see if that's how the Bose 6x9's are wired or not.

The schematic in the 2000 service manual shows separate connections to the amp for L&R Fronts and Tweeters, and L&R Rear doors and subs.
I'm thinking that it is only a 4 channel.

Yes it is a lot clearer that's for sure. Much more treble than bass. Now I know why guys go with separate powered subs.

I simply soldered the wires to the speaker.

I was impressed at how simply the door panels came off and how well designed they are with the speakers mounted to them.

My wife is pleased and so I'm happy......without a trunk robbing sub......we can turn the volume all the way to the max with no distortion (that I can hear).

I think it's an improvement over the stock Bose speakers except for the noticeably higher pitch.

Is it possible to add a supplementary amp to power just the 6x9 rear subs with a gain control??

i believe somebody has suggested doing that by tapping a line out converter into the wires coming into the bose amp but i haven't heard anything like that for myself


did you notice on the face of the tweeters a button? did you press that in or leave it out?

I left the tweeters at 0 db, not +3 db.
Button up not down.


Here is a comparison of the Bose & Infinity door speakers.

did you leave the stock tweeters plugged in up front? i disconnected mine and i like the sound

No. I left the stock tweeters.

I will try with them disconnected to see if it makes any difference.




My next upgrade has to be to replace my Firebirds CD player. It's a 1989 Kenwood that has no volume control and one channel is gone.
I might start a separate thread because I don't know what's good anymore.

I disconnected mine too, had way too much treble for my tastes

That makes sense to disable the two stock tweeters because we have added 6 new tweeters in the new two-way Infinity's.

WINNER!!!!



That really did the trick.
I like it now. The rear bass kicks....what a difference!

Thanks for all the help.
Don't need a sub at all.