sunroof power locks and interior lights all quit....help

[ddalder]

You don't need to stand on your head, but you do need to do some troubleshooting. Getting the scan tool is a great first step.

It will be very helpful if you can post both the DTC and the associated Symptom code for each. This really helps to identify why the code was set. The radio creates the chime when the key is left in or the lights are left on. The driver's door module plays a role in this but does not exclusively manage it. 'U' codes are not all that uncommon, especially in these cars, so unless you're having problems communicating with all devices I wouldn't spend any time chasing this yet.

Once you post both the DTC's and Symptom codes it will be easier to draw some conclusions. I wouldn't jump on replacing anything until you know what's up. DTC's can be set by inputs or outputs of a module being open, shorted to ground or shorted to battery positive voltage in addition to a number of other faults.

[beeman212]

got ya.. I,m going to go out here and make a list of the codes
so far I have found these codes with my new scan tool but I,m also learning to use the tool while I,m using it so its taking a little more to accomplish figuring out the scan tool and then where I should be looking for these codes and what other things I should look at while im using the scan tool.
I knew I needed it to fix my car just not sure yet how to use it correctly.
but ill try my best and let you know what I find asap so maybe we can figure this thing out ....
thx for hanging in there through this.

[ddalder]

When you scroll through each individual code, the 'Symptom' code (two characters) will be on the same screen as the main DTC information. These symptom identifiers can really help to narrow down where to look for the problem.

An example...

Symptom "OD"

[beeman212]

I've looked thru the menus on the scan tool and am not sure how to bring them up on a screen like that...
I keep finding the codes in the DTC codes menu...
Any help on how to bring up screens like that for the codes would be appreciated cause I'm not real sure on how to operate the scan tool very well ...
I have been going thru all the menus that I can get into but the instruction manual for it doesn't really explain very much very well so it seems to be a trial and error or learn as u go situation with me learning how to fully operate the tech 2 scan tool and I'm still not sure what all it can do and I had to bleed my brakes and my gm service manual says to do an automated bleed on it but it doesn't say if u have to open the brake bleeders or anything just to hook up scan tool and take all wheels off car...
I'm just not sure if I have to have the pressure adapter that goes on top of the master cylinder reservoir and have it pressurized...
I had to change a caliper and bleed all the brakes afterward the old fashioned way off pumping the brakes and holding the pedal while someone else opens the bleeder to let the fluid/air out of it but afterwards the pedal went down further than before and after bleeding them again I had half pedal and drove it around and it got better but still not right and it has new pads and rotors the whole way around and still have just over half pedal but car does stop pretty good just not sure what I'm doing wrong and I'm about to drive it 420miles to Ohio to visit my mom and look at my Saturn that I gave her last year

[ddalder]

There are a couple of ways to display DTC's. I usually use the Class 2 System Check (or some similar wording) from one of the main menus (not actually going into the individual modules). It's listed as something like that but I honestly don't recall the 'exact' wording. It allows you to check for DTC's in all the modules and then display them in order of priority. Regardless of which method you use, both the DTC and Symptom code should be visible on any of the screens where the DTC is available.

As for the brakes, it sounds like you still have air in the system. You don't need a pressure adapter but I'm thinking you do need to flush them again. Does the person who was at the bleeder have any experience? Normally, I'd have someone else pump the brakes and I'd be at the bleeder. You should close off the bleeder before the brake pedal actually gets to the floor. If you're hitting the floor before the other person closes the bleeder, there's a chance some air is returning into the line. If the system was opened before the EBCM, or if the reservoir ever ran empty you'll need to use the automated bleed procedure in your Tech2 to properly clear the EBCM of air. If I'm not mistaken, using the automated bleed procedure, you still only do one bleeder at a time. I've never had to use it myself so I'm not 100% familiar with the function. I purchased a vacuum bleed kit from MityVac that allows me to do everything without a second person. It's very slick! I wouldn't be driving around until your brakes are back to normal.

[beeman212]

Thx for the info... the person with the wrench has as much exp as myself and we bleed them 4 times each wheel and started it and pedal went to floor and bleed each wheel 5 times and started it and had good but not great pedal and when I drove it it got better as I was driving it...
I had to bleed them originally because of new calliper being installed

[beeman212]

so after many tests and help from people on this site I,m happy to tell ya that my rear integration module was the cause of everything going out electricly in my car....
now the fog lights and air bag light to fix and ill be a ok.

thanks for the help

[ddalder]

That's good news. I'll get in touch with you to go through the configuration of your DIM and SDM.

[ddalder]

For anyone that had been following this thread, the problem with the fog lamps and air bag light were both related to an incorrectly configured Dash Integration Module. Changes were made with a Tech2 and both of these are now functioning correctly.

[MKMike]

Thanks for posting the follow-up!