Air vents and fan issue

[Homer98SE]

1998 SE
New to forum and to Pontiac. I have fixed ALOT of things on this car and look forward to hopefully being of assistance on other topics.
However this will be my first actuator/vent/fan repair and nerd some help. I just replaced the AC compressor, but have had this issues prior to doing this fix. (After replacing the motor fan only works when AC is on, separate issue)

ISSUE:
Fan....
AC/heater fan blowing into the cab does not always come on (typically when it's 90 deg. outside, but that's probably just my luck working just fine.) Sometimes it blows fine, sometimes it stops dead. I understand these fans have some poor electrical connection going on? Also heard it's better to get one from the salvage yard as the aftermarket ones do not work very well?
Any suggestions when making this repair?

ISSUE #2
Air only blow through defrost vent.
Air only blows out of defrost vents and through the floor, not the front facing vents. After time it eventually will creep out all the vents evenly (including the front), which leads me to believe it is not a problem with the controls panel/buttons. I've read about the actuators on the older model posts here, but still had not definite answers.
Where is the actuator?
Do I need an actuator? Which one (if multiple)?
Can I pry open the dash and just adjust the dang thing?

[MattStrike]

Issue #1, new motor + blower wheel. Aftermarket parts are hit or miss on wheel balance, in addition to other quality issues. Root cause is the electric motor brushes are worn out. They are not easily replaceable, which is why I usually end up with a used junkyard blower and motor.

Can't speak to #2, I only know about the blend door (hot/cold) issue. I don't know if the air directional doors are electric or vacuum operated.

[1998 ssei]

Welcome to the club. I usually don't post much but had similar issues as you did. Here's two links to some good reading about the actuator.

http://trialsnuts.com/ecc.pdf

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... c3537.html

[Sirius]

Looks like you have two problems, neither of them appears to be the airmix actuator (lucky). I agree with Matt, you likely have a blower motor wearing out. Looks like a new one is about $42. Getting one from a JY is hit or miss - you could buy one that will go out in a month. I have a practically new one out of my wrecked 93 (daughter totaled the car shortly after I'd replaced the blower motor), if you're interested...$25, shipped (contiguous US). PM me if you want it.

Your vent problem is likely a vacuum issue - the vent doors are vacuum controlled. 98 was one of the years that was susceptible to "collapsed nipples" in the vacuum manifold on the HVAC Controller. One of the links provided above should give you some information on the collapsed nipple syndrome.

[Homer98SE]

Thank you for the replies.
Unfortunately I have undergone a head spinning list of repairs since then that lead to back aches, junk yard, new car searches, and this project being put on the back burner.

I am now taking apart the HVAC programmer.
I see the nipples, yet I see no cracks in the lines. So it is my understanding this little back connector box contains the "nipples" that have collapsed inside?

Found some additional good direction (link below) on replacing these vacuum lines...just having a hard time knowing exactly what I am to do, and how that is going to help. There is no picture of the finished project and what exactly am I attempting to correct?

http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 84&p=27612&


Will update later and do some more research. Should be done by the weekend end.

[Homer98SE]

>>>FIXED ISSUE#2<<<
Ok I have fixed the issue as follows. For those of you who come across this post in the future I may be able to provide simple definitive direction here. (Although I'm tech-dumb and can't seem to post a picture?).

(My 1-6 below assist with this link)
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 84&p=27612&

1.) Got into the HVAC Programmer under the dash/glove box on the passenger side (directions in link). Pulled the programmer down into reach and removed the 2 screws (7mm). I unplugged the large connector (red/grey) within reach to enable better access (may not have to do this), but I did NOT completely remove the box. The clear/black connector box he speaks of (read the linked page) is to be eliminated in this process. The "nipples" have collapsed within it not allowing the air to pass through, therefore not allowing the direction of air flow to be changed.
2.) I made a diagram as suggested to know which hose is to attach to the other, on the other side of the box.
3.) I cut the hoses on both sides of the clear/black connector box, eliminating completely (for some reason this was not clear to me in the directions). I cut one of the hoses a little longer so I could take about an 1.5 inches into the auto store and fit a hose on it.
4.) Excited as I held up the box with cut hoses to the light and could see a couple of the lines had closed shut.
5.) Took my new connecting hoses and attached them together, essentially replacing the connector box. Used a spot of motor oil on a rag as lubricant for fitting the new hose over the colored existing ones.
6.) Boom, works great. I can now direct which vent the air flows out from.

>>>ISSUE #1 STILL NOT FIXED<<<

I have done a few things here but still have a fan that sometimes comes on, sometimes not. When it does, it works great (especially with the fix I will describe below) but it sometimes is just silent. Not on at all, no air, no power, no sound, not cool...(or warm for that matter).

New Fan:
1.) Went to the junk yard and found an SSE, same year. Pulled the Heater/AC fan and motor. Removed some bracket coming up behind intake manifold that holds fuel lines. Cost was $36 with warranty, new one is $41...of course did not know this until I paid.
2.) Installed new fan. The cover that goes over the top basically disintegrated in my hands. So the hose that connected from the fan+blower motor housing (cover) into the firewall is no longer there. Big deal? I don't know but I doubt it.
3.) Does the same *dang* thing. I just waited 3 minutes until the fan decided to come on, same issue.

Inspect HVAC reservoir tank. (described in the link above for issue #1)
1.) Traced the vacuum line from the back of the upper intake manifold, to the reservoir tank. Lines seem okay.
2.) Inspected the tank. And it is a pill like shaped tank. It is directly under the battery, but do not remove battery. Simply look under the car in front of the passenger wheel well, in the area under the battery. Do not need to remove anything to access, it is clearly accessible (but a little funky to reach).
3.) Loosened the 2 bolts (10mm). Do not have to remove. They have fitting which simply has an insert like warehouse shelving. Basically, loosen the bolt and slide over, it will come right out.
4.) Inspected box for cracks/leaks.
5.) Looked fine, back it goes.

Cleaned EVAP core.
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... c2432.html

Directions are pretty clear here. However, I had WAY more water flooding into the cab than this guy. Completely soaked a huge/thick beach towel, and still left a couple inches of water on the floor. Soaked another towel and cranked the heat through floor vents for my hour drive that night. I did get several leaves out of this compartment. And the water left a mark on my drive way...dirty.

Air flow is much, much better.

>>>SUMMED UP<<<

I Finally can direct the air which ever way I want it. Pretty stoked, I have had this issue since buying car 2 years ago.

Cleaning EVAP has given me much more air flow.

FAN still does not work always. I may need to change the resistor pack(?) or whatever the item is that pugs in to the fan (pulled out and cleaned when doing EVAP cleaning). Or maybe I just got a used fan motor with the same exact issue?

I NEED to get this fixed, I've put too much into the heating/cooling of this car to simply have my fan not turn on. Will follow up once I get into this more and if I find a fix. Any help in the mean time would be appreciated.

Thanks all, and hope this helps someone.

[gmman]

suggestion If you are handy with rigging wiring. remove connector to blower motor. jump 12v directly to blower from battery. I know I know it will run all the time. but if it does, giving it the usual time to malfunction that you have seen, you can eliminate blower motor. and if it does, the next suspect is connections especially at the blower motor. that connection has given trouble on my 96 SE. if the connection looks suspect, ie, corroded or terminals look fried, try another one from the JY.

if above doesn't help, I would change the blower motor control module (BMCM). don't use one from the JY. I tried several from JY, NO GOOD. I ordered one from ROCK AUTO PARTS for about $60. PS the BMCM resides in the plenum below the RELAY/FUSE PANEL.

PS PS obviously disconnect hard wired connection from the battery to the BMCM if the car is not used for more than 15 minutes.

[Homer98SE]

Awesome, thank you. I think the BMCM must be the part I had meant by "resistor". I will look further into this week/weekend.

Great idea about hooking up the fan directly to the battery, I am not good with electrical anything but I or someone will figure it out if I go that route.

Thanks, will follow up.

[96 SSEi]

hi, please check the resistor if your current path is no go as my 96 had the connections a bit seared - cleaned with sandpaper, connected them and put some grease on to stop rust and it worked great after that.