fog lights dont work.... help...

[ddalder]

The fuel door lock isn't surprising. They have a tendency to get moisture into the latching mechanism, corrode and fail. The fuel door latch mechanism is controlled by the Rear Integration Module.

The Dash Integration Module is where many of the body option parameters are stored. It is possible that if a used DIM was installed by a previous owner, some options may not be correctly identified since one or two automatically set based on the VIN it is programmed with. Unfortunately, you need a Tech 2 in order to view or change these parameters.

[samples08]

Like i said before your going to need to get that vin checked and make sure they all match up that was the reason why my fog lights would never come on and why my fuel door lock didn't work either

[beeman212]

So I got a tech 2 scan tool and its not letting me in my rear integration module...
Can access almost everything else but will can't establish a connection with the rim ...
And I'm sure the connector on the rim is good and all connections are good....

[ddalder]

So I got a tech 2 scan tool and its not letting me in my rear integration module...
Can access almost everything else but will can't establish a connection with the rim ...
And I'm sure the connector on the rim is good and all connections are good....

As mentioned in the other post... you need to physically look. Since you reference the "connector" on the RIM, and there are actually two, it suggests maybe a closer check is in order. I can certainly help you with these things, but it's very important to follow all the steps.

[beeman212]

Yea ive had the rim out of the car and checked both connectors and all is clean and fits nice and snug all individual connectors are clean and tight in connector

[ddalder]

I can't recall if you said you bought service manuals for the car or not. Chances are good that you need a RIM, however there are a few signals I'd check before replacing it. You should check for power, ground, battery positive voltage, IGN 1 signal and class 2 serial data. There are a few ways you can go about this. If all these signals are present, you need to replace the module. If not, you have a wiring problem to correct. Post back whether you have manuals...

[beeman212]

Yea I have the gm dealer service manuals there a 2 book set and are the books that gm dealers have.
I've been thinking the rim was bad from the beginning.
When I bought the car the air bag light was on and the fog lights wouldn't work but everything else on the car worked other than the fuel door release has never worked...
And I suspected the rim was the problem but was told that it most likely wasn't the issue and then months later all the other stuff quit as I explained before and with the scan tool not allowing me to get into anything that has to do with the rim...
But rap still works and automatic lights outside the car and in the dash still work as normal...
Also I have the u1255 code that comes up on rim and ipm that code states data link malfunction...

[ddalder]

You need to consider the RIM is not the only module that controls all the systems you are having faults with. I suspect that even if you replace it (should it be faulty), not all your problems will go away.

How are you at reading schematics?

[beeman212]

im better than most but not an expert by far.... I,ve always been a whiz with electronics in everything and have a lot of experience with troubleshooting electrical problems in cars and house and any other electrical things.... ive never been afraid to dive into electrical problems but just feel like im missing something or not looking in the right area...
but yea I can read them good enough to understand most of the things in schematics but not all.
but im up for anything you may suggest..

[ddalder]

Okay, first thing to do is make a few checks. For this you'll really only need to look up the connector end views. These checks are simply a matter of formality before spending more money to buy a RIM. I suspect that is where this is going, but a few checks won't cost you anything.

Look up the connector end views in the manual for the RIM. Unplug both connectors (battery still connected). The black connector is C1 and the blue connector is C2. Using a meter, check for continuity between a good ground location on the body and the following connector terminals:

Connector C1 (Black) - Terminals A8 and B8 (both are black wires with a white tracer).

Next, check for +12VDC between the same body ground and Connector C2 (Blue) Terminal A11 (orange wire).

Check for IGN 1 signal. Measure for +12VDC on Connector C1 (Black) Terminal A4 (Pink wire). For this test, the key must be in the "RUN" position (don't actually start the car).

Finally, check that the class 2 serial data lines are properly connected. The easiest way to do this is to check for continuity between the serial data lines on the RIM and another vehicle module. You can use the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver since it's virtually right beside the RIM. The RCDLR has a blue connector with four wires. The two center wires are both purple. Check for continuity between either of the two purple wires on the RCDLR connector and RIM connector C2 (Blue) Terminals A12 & B12 (both are purple wires).

If all these check out, replace the RIM.

[beeman212]

thanks for all your help with this car and that sounds like easy enough tests to do... I believe I checked them before with a multimeter but wasn't sure what I was looking for at that point so ill check all this out and hopefully can get it figured out.....
also when my car is cold at idle my boost gauge reads around 7 or 8 lbs of vac cold at idle and after warmed up the gauge will sit at the -10lbs vac....
is that normal or a sign of a vacuum leak?
thanks for your help

[ddalder]

...also when my car is cold at idle my boost gauge reads around 7 or 8 lbs of vac cold at idle and after warmed up the gauge will sit at the -10lbs vac.... is that normal or a sign of a vacuum leak?

Not sure, I've never had a supercharged car. I'd recommend asking that question in a new thread because cross-talk about another issue will kind of cloud an unrelated topic here. I'm sure you'll get a swift response though.

[beeman212]

so finally got some help getting speaker box outta trunk and ran all the tests you laid out for me and it passed all tests so sounds like rim is the problem... when I plugged it back in I heard some electrical noises like it powered something back up when I plugged it back in... but I don't think that means anything after all those tests checked out...

[ddalder]

I would agree that the next step is to replace the RIM. That will not fix all your problems, but it should resolve several of them.