Intercooled L67 for the 88!

[Zeik75]

This shall be the build thread for the engine, as it sits right now I have the 2000 sitting in the back yard with everything still in it the motor has 170k miles. I'm going to be pulling the engine and trans for the 88. The plan so far is to do an intercooled build since I got a good deal on an IC core and machined LIM. I have most of this worked out I believe and will be reading Booze, Randy, Pat, and Andrews build threads again but I'm sure I'll have questions.

So currently I have two sets of l67 heads, one that's on the 2000 and some spares on a shelf in the garage. I'm fairly sure the ones on the car are in better shape as I think the spare ones I have may need new valves on one cylinder IIRC. Either way I plan on getting them completely pulled apart, inspected, and possibly sent to the machine shop to get the valves reground and check the flatness on the bottom. I will be gasket match porting them and the LIM myself and was planning on reusing the stock springs unless they should be changed out for any reason? not planning a cam or rockers as it stands.

I'm planning on leaving the block alone but maybe sending it off to have the rotating assembly balanced depending on how much that costs, we'll see lol. It shouldn't need any machining or bearings done so thats good. Planning on leaving the balance shaft too. Any upgrades that should be done to the block for any reason?

Timing chain. Any reason to upgrade this or will a stock replacement be fine even if I were to do rockers at some point?

Any reason to up the shift points or anything with a stock cam? I don't believe so but just want to make sure and get the springs and chain I would need If I do raise them.

I'm planning to delete the EGR which I believe is as simple as pulling the solenoid, blocking the LIM off (my intercooler one already has it blocked), and plugging the exhaust port. Am I missing anything?

I'm going to use the Gen 3 for now as I have 3 of them lol. I figure I'll use the best condition rotors and case and do a full rebuild of bearings and such. I used to remember where to find the bearings for it but can't find them anymore, who knows where to get them? I'm gonna do a full port job on the outlet with the whole opening the inlet and removing those screw hole nubs and helicoil them and weld the silencer ports shut probabaly. I forget if the inlet can be ported where it meets the TB, well i'm sure it can but any reason to? And any reason to use a northstar TB or different MAF for this build?

I'm thinking a 3 inch pulley will be just about right from looking at others. I'm also thinking there is going to be some belt slip that small and I see two options for this, one being the belt wrap kit and the other being one of the 8 rib balancers, Any input on this? I know randy has an 8 rib and I believe booze just has the belt wrap, not sure on anyone else.

I would like to retain the pcv but not quite sure on how to do that yet, i know the lim and supercharger case need to be drilled and tapped but not sure how and why exactly yet. Also would like an oil air separator but have zero idea on how to plumb that up (this is just a catch can right?).

For the most part I have the intercooler setup and plumbing understood and will be running a reservoir for that however which pump would be the best to get and what type of hose would be the best/most durable? Anyone have thoughts on something that would work as a resevoir from another car or something? If not I'll just get something custom made for it. As far as having a system that auto purges air I would just want the return to the res to be the highest point in the system right?

Fueling!!! right now this is my biggest concern. I have done fuel pumps in both the 88 and the 2000 but I never paid attention to size of the sending unit or wiring or anything else for that matter, I was usually pretty angry when doing these lol. So my main problems are that I don't think the stock pump in the 88 will support the needs of my build and I have no idea if I could just drop a 2000+ sending unit and pump in(which I doubt). anyone have input on this? a less pressing matter is will I need to upgrade the injectors? I know the 42.5# injectors would support my current build but not sure if stock would be suitable. otherwise I figure i'm stuck with fuel logs and was leaning towards the AEI ones but I'm curious if the return style or the returnless will need to be used with these.

ummmmmmmm I know im forgetting things but this should get us started for now


Thanks guys!

[MattStrike]

Stock springs and rockers you're all set to use the stock timing set. You should still be able to run the stock timing set with up to 105# springs, but the timing set is not going to last very long and at that point I'd recommend the roller chain.

Intercooler hose can be heater hose, it's not going to be under high pressure or really high temp where you'll need something special, as long as the inner is rated for coolant use and the outer layer is oil, grease, and heat resistant to survive under the hood. I've seen clear hose used, which you have the advantage of being able to see if there are any air traps, but looks fugly as it gets dirty. To self-bleed the entire run of hose needs to have an upward slope between the pump and reservoir. Areas where the hose runs flat will only self-bleed with sufficient flow, and any high spot between any two points will trap air. Frozenboost has some silicone heater hose in black or blue if you want to dress it up a bit.

Don't get a knockoff electric pump from the internet, they are loud and not very good quality. I think the Bosch pump is the standard for most OE intercooler applications. http://www.lingenfelter.com/LPEforumfil ... ng-results

At 170k if you've never replaced the balancer there's a good chance that pulley down will be enough to cause the bonded center to fail, I would say go for the 8-rib SFI balancer, then you could run that snazzy Gates green belt too.

Check out ZZPs site, they have a universal catch can, SC rebuild parts, etc.

[Zeik75]

I was thinking the Bosch pump would be the way to go ill have to watch for a used one to pop up. I planned on a new balancer no matter what so I may as well upgrade while I'm at it. I'll probably just get a roller then that way its done if I decide to cam it or anything ever.

[Zeik75]

Updated first post with fueling questions!!!!!!!

[MattStrike]

You have the option to upgrade the '88 to the '97-'99 SSEi fuel pump, '93 sending unit, but the sending unit comes down on the passenger side of the car instead of the driver side so you'd have to re-do at least part of them. Another issue with using a newer sending unit is that I think '96 is when they changed the resistance of the level sender so it won't read past 3/8, but will be empty at E with your cluster, which is why I recommend using a '93 sending unit. It could be an excuse to upgrade to the nylon system found on the '93, and if you're lucky you can find what you need at a salvage yard for potentially less money than the next option.

Which is using a Walbro 255 that fits your sending unit. Certainly the least amount of custom work.

I can't speak to the fuel pump size from the '00+, the sending unit is different however if you break it down the fuel pump might be easy to fit onto the '88 sending unit with minor modification. Fuel pump sizes are fairly standardized, the '88-'99 all use either the 1.5" pump or the 2" pump. Somewhere along the way they did change the orientation of the pump inlet, I know I ended up with a 2" pump in my '86 and had to graft part of the 2" sending unit to the 1.5" sending unit to make it work, I was limited to what I could find at the yards.

[WhiteArrow3800]

As far as the '00+ pump holding up, I only went to the 255 because my fuel pump happened to be giving up while I was on the dyno and Intense was 15 minutes away and had that in stock, haha. As far as injectors I'm still running stock, however they're at 97% duty cycle and I have 42.5lb injectors going in not long after I get this beast back on the road. I've got rockers now too, but you should be okay to run stock injectors if the valvetrain is going to remain stock. But you'd probably be pushing them a bit.

I do have a belt wrap now, but it hasn't been run with it yet. Pat has the same belt wrap but I believe he is also running an 8-rib belt too. Depends on the belt wrap kit used but I've read some of them only work with smaller than 3.0 pullies, but that said I got mine to work with a 3.0.

I'm not sure there's to much to gain from a N* TB setup unless you've ported the GenIII or move to a GenV.

EGR delete is pretty much as simple as that. You'll want to delete the codes associated with it though or you'll get a new fancy light on your dash.

As far as the PCV system, you'd have to verify with the IC core on if it would allow the PCV to work as it is or if it's blocked off. If you want to add a catch can (and I think you should) you want that blocked. Then all you're doing is drilling and tapping the LIM & SC housing to go around the IC and putting the catch can in line with that, If that makes sense.