New Brake Lines & Bleeding

Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88, Olds 98 86-90 or Buick Le Sabre, Le Sabre T-Type and Park Avenue 85-90 . Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
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89OldsRocket
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Year and Trim: 1989 Oldsmobile 88 Royale Brougham Regency - FE3

New Brake Lines & Bleeding

Post by 89OldsRocket »

New rear brake lines installed, Master cylinder fluid went empty but front lines were still hooked up.
Questions :

1) Does the master cylinder have a bleeder valve?

2) Some say to bleed regularly and no need to bleed the master but it will take longer to get the air out of the system. Is this correct?

3) From a ASE tech he said you can bleed the master from in the car by bleeding regularily and then open each line slightly at master cylider and have someone press the pedal to get the air out and then tighten the line and do so for the other 3 lines AT the Master Cylinder. Has anyone done this?
1989 Oldsmobile 88 Royale Brougham Regency - Grey on Grey - FE3 - X06 Package - Limo Tint - Clarion HU - 2K Pontiac Grand Am 15" Alloy Rims
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MattStrike
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Re: New Brake Lines & Bleeding

Post by MattStrike »

I've never had anything work to get all the air out but to properly bleed the MC. Then reconnect the lines and bleed at the brakes. This can be done on-vehicle you just need someone to push the pedal on command.

When bleeding on car you loop the bleeder tube back into the reservoir which should be filled with new fluid. You should push the pedal down about 80%, hold for 20 seconds, then release (your '89 has a step-bore MC, the reason for the 20 second hold). Do this slowly otherwise brake fluid will go spraying everywhere out of the top of the reservoir. Repeat until no more bubble come out of the tubes and the reservoir. There is a kit at most auto parts stores in the help section that should have everything you need. Keep the MC level high enough that the bleed tube can't pull air.

I have enough stuff around that I can usually loop all the ports into the reservoir at the same time. Bleeding on car also mean you can hook the brake lines back on quicker without screwing around with plugs. I just use steel lines with the correct fittings instead of the clear tube, they don't un-bend and fall out of the reservoir, doesn't matter if you can see the air in the tube or not because it will all come out in the end.
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david
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Re: New Brake Lines & Bleeding

Post by david »

just dont get the fluid on your paint
What does it profit a man to gain the whole world and lose his soul.
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89OldsRocket
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Re: New Brake Lines & Bleeding

Post by 89OldsRocket »

I've seen the MC bleeder kit, do I hook the two lines up to the lower lines(mine has the lower proportioning valves coming out or them) or the upper?
1989 Oldsmobile 88 Royale Brougham Regency - Grey on Grey - FE3 - X06 Package - Limo Tint - Clarion HU - 2K Pontiac Grand Am 15" Alloy Rims
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MattStrike
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Re: New Brake Lines & Bleeding

Post by MattStrike »

If you prefer the kit, then use one of each front and rear brake ports, rear brake ports have the proportioning valve.

The other method is to get 2 of the 16" pre-flared brake line sections, with the fittings you need, which you cut in half to get all 4 fittings with a length of line that you can bend to loop into the reservoir. This way is usually cheaper
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The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67
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