Rear strut replacement

[oldslss]

Hey everybody going to be changing out the rear saggy struts for some new ones just need to know if there is a walk-through or some guide to get me started anything I should be aware off maybe I need some specific hardware?

let me know!

[trf_ssei]

So long as their not air struts, they're fairley straight forward One recomendation i can make would be to take a scribe or chalk and mark where the old struts align on the Hub assembly before you loosen the two bolts, that way you can get it close to the original position. And other than an alignment after your all set.

I know its vauge but im basing it on the likelyhood that you have some mechanical inclination. If you need more help just post

[1oldman]

I would think there is a good chance the ball joints need to be replaced if that has never happened. Check the tie rod ends too.

Before starting any work, take a string and use it to measure the front inside to inside of each tire, then the back inside to inside. The new struts should make the rear of the car rise just ever a bit, just enough to mess up the alignment. There is a bolt - IIRC that can be loosened to move the bottom of the wheel in and out from center line, also the tie rod ends can to loosened to adjust the rear wheels to be parallel to each other. There are more technical terms, but I don't know them - LOL - BC

[oldslss]

are air struts more difficult to put in? because i have replacement air struts, the ball joints have never been done car only has 130km on it, will definitely be giving things a good look-over like tie rod ends and such since its the first time I am doing any rear suspension work also I do occasionally hear a clunk from the rear over certain bumps any ideas ? strut mounts?

[MattStrike]

I don't think the air struts are that much more difficult to install, main difference being the air lines that may need to have the ends replaced (I have a writeup on how to do that in another thread somewheres).

Clunks - check the sway bar center and end links, but could be a very loose tie rod end, ball joint, or strut mount.. Also check the bushings on the control arm.

[1oldman]

I don't think the air struts are that much more difficult to install, main difference being the air lines that may need to have the ends replaced (I have a writeup on how to do that in another thread somewheres).

Clunks - check the sway bar center and end links, but could be a very loose tie rod end, ball joint, or strut mount.. Also check the bushings on the control arm.

I would hope the bushings are okay, but definitely need checking. Mine have 293K+ miles and just needed replacing around 280k miles. It'll get done sometime later this year, I hope - lol It is good you will give everything a good inspection. Some of the parts deteriorate even when not being driven. - BC

[Sirius]

Replacing the REAR shocks shouldn't require an alignment of any kind. And air shocks are no different to replace than regular ones...you just have a clip to remove that holds the air line onto the shock.

Oops! Thought I was in the 2000+ room. You may actually want to get a four-wheel alignment afterward on a pre-2000 car. Automatic load-leveling still should be no more difficult to change than a standard unit, though.

[oldslss]

the car needs an alignment anyways the rear right tire has been out of alignment for a while good thing there's a local shop that does a 4 wheel alignment for 50 bucks

[1oldman]

Replacing the REAR shocks shouldn't require an alignment of any kind. And air shocks are no different to replace than regular ones...you just have a clip to remove that holds the air line onto the shock.

Oops! Thought I was in the 2000+ room. You may actually want to get a four-wheel alignment afterward on a pre-2000 car. Automatic load-leveling still should be no more difficult to change than a standard unit, though.

Only if there isn't a pre-existing air leak. If there is, use soapy water to find it just like with any gaseous leak - lol - BC - BC

[oldslss]

I assume there are no leaks when the car got certified the only thing that were leaking were the struts themselves.