Drivers side A/C
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CMS07
- SE Member

- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:44 am
- Year and Trim: 2000 SLE
2005 Yamaha R6 - Location: Cuba, Missouri
Drivers side A/C
Around a year ago my drivers side A/C went out. The passenger side works fine. I checked the freon and its at the right levels. Any ideas on how to fix the problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Re: Drivers side A/C
Mine did this and I posted a reply when I fixed it. Are you SURE you have full R134 level? Sometimes it takes awhile for the can to go in and you need to shake it/hold it up so it seems to pour in. Get a good pressure meter, don't use the crappy ones that come affixed to the fill cans with red and green zones on it. I think I filled mine up to around 45 psi while ac was running and that took care of the problem. Got cold out of all vents and did nothing else put pressure test and add refrigerant.
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CMS07
- SE Member

- Posts: 11
- Joined: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:44 am
- Year and Trim: 2000 SLE
2005 Yamaha R6 - Location: Cuba, Missouri
Re: Drivers side A/C
Im pretty sure that its all the way full. But I will go and check it again.
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Rusgreim
- GXP Member

- Posts: 207
- Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2008 12:19 am
- Year and Trim: White 2000 Bonneville SLE
- Location: Fort Wayne, IN
- Contact:
Re: Drivers side A/C
There are actuators under the center console that control the flow of air. Getting cold air on one side and not the other is a sign that one of the actuators has gone caput. Run the system through the cycles and see when and where you get air from vents, if you get drivers floor heat but no dash ac or something like that you have a bad actuator.
Russell (Rus or Rusty)
White 2000 SLE - 161k Miles
Current Mods - Transgo Shift Kit, 180* Drilled Thermostat, NGK TR55 & Belden Plug Wires, Suspension Energy Endlink Upgrade, "Stock" 12-Way Power Seats, "Stock" Heated Seats, "Stock" Homelink GDO, Cleared Corners, Pins & Dealer Badge Removed, 2002 56I Center Console, Dash Trim, Steering Wheel and Shifter Swap, Auto-Dimming RV Mirror, Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD MP3/USB Headunit w/ Steering Wheel Controls and iPhone Music Interface, Hood Protector, Gutted Airbox w/ K&N Filter.
Mods in Progress - SSEi Inflator with Stock controls, Chrome "Swoopies" (Have rims, need tires)
Future Mods - Viper 5701 Remote Start with Smart Start and 35% Window Tinting
White 2000 SLE - 161k Miles
Current Mods - Transgo Shift Kit, 180* Drilled Thermostat, NGK TR55 & Belden Plug Wires, Suspension Energy Endlink Upgrade, "Stock" 12-Way Power Seats, "Stock" Heated Seats, "Stock" Homelink GDO, Cleared Corners, Pins & Dealer Badge Removed, 2002 56I Center Console, Dash Trim, Steering Wheel and Shifter Swap, Auto-Dimming RV Mirror, Pioneer AVH-P4000DVD MP3/USB Headunit w/ Steering Wheel Controls and iPhone Music Interface, Hood Protector, Gutted Airbox w/ K&N Filter.
Mods in Progress - SSEi Inflator with Stock controls, Chrome "Swoopies" (Have rims, need tires)
Future Mods - Viper 5701 Remote Start with Smart Start and 35% Window Tinting
- crash93ssei
- Retired Moderator

- Posts: 7671
- Joined: Mon May 19, 2008 6:08 pm
- Year and Trim: 2002 SE
- Location: Midland, Michigan
Re: Drivers side A/C
This actually seems to be a fairly common problem with the 2000+ crowd this summer, and every time that I remember, the problem was not enough refrigerant in the system.
Remember, just because you have the right amount of pressure for the system to function, does not mean you have enough refrigerant. You can guess and assume by putting a can in and watching the meter that you have the right amount, but you can't tell for sure because it only goes by pressure in the system. If you continue to have the problem, take it to a shop and have them vacuum down the system and add the correct amount of refrigerant by weight and you should be all set.
As for the actuators, if you remove the sound insulator panel under the dash on the drivers side, you can see the actuator move the doors for heat or A/C. Lay down on the floor and look up under the dash right behind the center stack. Move the temperature selector from hot to cold and back again and you should see them moving. If they move all the way in both directions, that is not your problem and it is time to look into the refrigerant levels.
Remember, just because you have the right amount of pressure for the system to function, does not mean you have enough refrigerant. You can guess and assume by putting a can in and watching the meter that you have the right amount, but you can't tell for sure because it only goes by pressure in the system. If you continue to have the problem, take it to a shop and have them vacuum down the system and add the correct amount of refrigerant by weight and you should be all set.
As for the actuators, if you remove the sound insulator panel under the dash on the drivers side, you can see the actuator move the doors for heat or A/C. Lay down on the floor and look up under the dash right behind the center stack. Move the temperature selector from hot to cold and back again and you should see them moving. If they move all the way in both directions, that is not your problem and it is time to look into the refrigerant levels.
Ryan

2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD!
2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one

2003 Bonneville SSEi - The Black Mirror SOLD!
2002 Bonneville SE - The Mutt Complete 2004 SLE interior, drivetrain, and body harness swap, ECC swap, HUD swap, black GXP wheels, GXP headlights and tinted tails - SOLD
2003 BMW 540i M Sport, 2001 BMW X5 4.4i, 2010 GMC Acadia, 2017 Grand Design Imagine 3150BH
1982 Cutlass Supreme - The fun one
MattStrike wrote:It was the worst week of my life! *pause, drinks beer... smiles* But I'm better now!


