Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's, Olds 98 91-96, Buick Lesabres and Park Avenue 91-96. Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
Ragsdale wrote:OOOOO link to the gear head section!
Whoops, sorry. Just a subtle reminder of my exalted status here, peasant.
Here's a pic of how the switch attaches once the wheel has been removed. Maybe Andrew (Harofreak) will post the entire how-to in techinfo. It's excellent.
Is the stalk yoke damaged, or just the stalk? if it is just the stalk (no yoke damage), you can easily extract what's left of the stalk without having to tear into the column at all. The wires connect just outside of the collar...you can take off the plastic housing that surrounds the stalk and the tilt stalk and see it right there. Undo that, fish out what's left of the stalk in the yoke, then go hunting for another.
If the yoke IS broke....then scramble some eggs.
2005 GXP - White Gold Pearl, no mods...yet.
2000 SSEi - Resurrection in progress. Built L67 w/L32 fuel rail, ported heads, and cam. Camaro front brake system, GXP cluster, and much more in planning.
BonneMe wrote:Looks like a Volt, Sonata, and Taurus got it on.
The same thing happened on my '93. It was cheaper, and easier for me to do at the time, to replace the entire column than to dig into the original...lock cylinder and all. I then took the pellet from my original key, and put it into the key that came with the column.
2005 GXP - White Gold Pearl, no mods...yet.
2000 SSEi - Resurrection in progress. Built L67 w/L32 fuel rail, ported heads, and cam. Camaro front brake system, GXP cluster, and much more in planning.
BonneMe wrote:Looks like a Volt, Sonata, and Taurus got it on.
No. I just want to replace what's broke.
What I need to know is what the broken ear that the pin connects to is so I can order it or find the piece in a scrap yard.
The plastic piece the stalk plugs into might be OK. It's hanging by some wires.
It's the metal piece that pins it together that I need. Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like? I don't have a service manual.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
Now that I inspect it again, I'm pretty sure also.
Cheap... ..flimsy... ...crappy...... .
I never liked how wiggley and how close it is to leg entry accidents that stalk was from the beginning!
What I'm trying to find out, if someone has an exploded view of components from a manual, what that eared metal part is that has the round pin in it that holds the stalk yoke.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
Thanks John, but check again please. In my 00 manual there is a pic of it in Section 2 near the beginning under Steering, except the detail is not the same as the 94.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
Sorry Paul, I checked again and there is no detailed diagrams or pictures.
The only mention of disassembly is:
1. Make sure multi function lever is centered in the "off" position.
2. Remove cover.
3. Disconnect cruise control wire at connector.
4. Pull multi function lever straight out.
Even the instructions for inspection and repairs of the steering column don't mention anything about what you're after.
Strange.......... but true.
wjcollier07 wrote:Darn it John...now you got me thinking mine's not big enough.
2001 F150 a basic six cyl with 5 speed manual trans.
'66 Piper Cherokee 360 CID , 180 hp, 155 mph @ 2500 rpm, drop in K&N filter.
I was searching the Rockauto site and I think I found the part that looks like it for $100.
Tomorrow I'll drive it, using hand signals out the window in the rain, to the GM dealer for him to diagnose and price the repair.
My Jeep has been in the shop the last couple of weeks getting some rust repair done. I have had to refab all the mud flap brackets in stainless steel.
I hope to get it back Tuesday or Wednesday.
2000 SSEi - SilverBullet - 78,000 kms, 4" "straight shot" custom headlight ram air inlet, TOGs, 1.9's, Lsd, 2.9-3.4"MPS 10-15 psi, Ported GenV, EGR eliminated, OR pushrods, oil volume kit, trani cooler & shift kit, Titanium retainers, 90 lb springs, 160 Stat, 42# injectors, Fuel pump voltage increase, Wideband O2, 3" to dual 2 1/2" Magnaflows, Snow Meth/water injection, after SC temp gauge, 255/50WR17, timing commander set 15-18*@WOT, 2 speed Fan over-ride, disabled DRL, Solid motor mount, Meziere Electric water pump, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, Drilled & slotted rotors/ceramics, GXP sway bars and STB, Upgraded and rebuilt transmission with ZZP 2500 rpm stall TC, Pioneer Bluetooth stereo with sub and 800 W amps, PB 13.5 quarter, (April 2014 car of the month)
Replacing the entire column will probably be cheaper than a dealer repair of just the mechanism. Swapping a steering column really isn't all that difficult, and they're not outrageously expensive at salvage yards. I bet it would take half the time to replace the steering column as it would to tear down and rebuild the column that you have.
I've swapped a couple before, both in my '86 Monte Carlo SS. Both time because theifs tried to take it and smashed the column. They never found the kill switch though...sorry bastards. I think I paid like $50 or $70 each time.
~Adam
'99 SSEi
'02 Volvo S60 AWD 2.4T
'02 Jeep Liberty Sport
'89 Chaparral 187XL w/ 4.3L I/O Mercruiser
'00 Cannondale Jekyll 900SX
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