I need to remove my GXP from my garage. It hasn't run in a year or so.
I just don't have time to work on it.
It has three problems:
1. parasite power drain kills the battery overnight.
2. driver output shaft from transmission leaks fluid badly.
3. power steering pump was replaced and rebuilt one ...

My rear trunk applique on my GXP is full of water. I have removed it from the vehicle
but I can't remember how to open them up and expose the insides. I believe they
work the same as the taillights, but I don't see any tabs or seams that are an
obvious separation point. I don't want to break it as I ...

Yes, no codes other than 301. I can easily put a new plug in there.
I have already swapped the coil with another cylinder, and the misfire
stayed on cylinder #1. I could buy a new coil for about $50 or an
entire bank for $150. I hate to throw parts at it.

Update: So the vehicle is still intermittently misfiring and running poorly.
Sometimes it runs just fine for a day, which made me feel like it was
an ignition connection that wasn't tight and randomly acting up.

But because I switched coils and plugs I am slowly changing my mind
about the most ...

I got mine at a junkyard for $5.
That was several years ago, and the number of that generation cars
in the junkyards seems to be shrinking. I guess they crush them
after a while as demand for those parts lowers.

Worn brake pads or worn control arm bushings won't cause ABS faults.
The ABS faults will be caused by bad hub bearings (screwing up the
magnetic readers that tell the computer the wheel speed) or by
the ABS unit itself. Maybe there is another component involved
but not brake pads or control arm ...

Wheel bearings/hub don't usually go thump when they wear out.
I think you found that issue with the stabilizer link.
But something else is making the warning lights go off for TRACTION.

I have always been able to tell when the bearings are starting to go when
I have the wheel off the ground ...

Pulled cylinder #1 spark plug and it looked fine. Put it all back together
and it runs perfectly like a champ. Drove it to work 60 miles and it
runs like a scalded cat. I don't know what the problem was, how
it started, or how it went away. ????????

I'm guessing a poor ignition connection related ...

I think the fast chime is the reminder that a key is in the ignition.
The key cylinder for the ignition thinks
there is a key still in place even when there is not. It is probably worn badly.
Try putting the key in the ignition with the door open and wiggle
it and pull it out several times and see ...

Actually took the vehicle on a test drive and it is not running good
after the coil swap. Still misfiring on mostly cylinder 1 and some
on cylinder 2. Both have a different coil and still the misfires are
on the same cylinders. DTC code is being set for P301 (misfire 1st cylinder).

So if not coil ...

There are other places on the Northstar that leak air besides the PCV tube.
The intake plenum gaskets are notorious. You probably should have taken
it off when you changed the PCV tube just so you could get a fresh set of
gaskets on it.

Also the rubber connection between the throttle body and ...

OK so started swapping coils.

1st. The rear bank has the black epoxy and the front bank has the white.
I assume the dealer changed the back bank. Because the harness plugs
are different I could only swap on the same bank.

2nd. I swapped cylinder 6 with cylinder 2 on the front bank. Decided to ...

I think you hit on a good approach. I don't know the age of all the coils and I am
pretty comfortable that the fuel (and air) problems are too recently fixed to
start giving me issues again. Time to swap coils and see what happens.

My GXP is running pretty bad. It is a misfire where the engine takes
a quick hard stumble every ten seconds or so.

The SES light is not on, but I grabbed my code reader just to be sure.
So I confirmed no trouble codes are set.

I then ran the car with the reader telling me the operational data and ...

I am not having the same random no crank issue, but I am having strange issues that may
be related to that switch. When I unlock the car and open the driver door to get in, the
car chimes like someone has left the key in the ignition. Also when driving down the road
the dome light will suddenly come ...

I love the way that youtuber talks.
His post says: "I get fusstraightened when things take too long".

I think he is not far off. I haven't done that job myself but I think
in previous discussions somewhere, I heard it was a PITA.

I think I told this before, but I bought a set of OEM embroidered "SSEi" floormats
from the dealer and then hid them away in my basement so I would have
a brand new set after they stopped making them.

Oh, I continued to buy replacement mats as needed (until no longer available) and
forgot all ...

After much testing and checking and cleaning, I'm reconsidering my first diagnosis and think maybe it might be the vent tube.
With the large leaks over the last few months, I have had to add ATF every other day, and
checking for a perfectly accurate level was non-existent.

Finally with a good ...

These *dang* fluid leaks just never end.

So first the ATF cooler line leaked badly at the lower back of the tranny.
Replaced the snap in fitting and it still leaked. JB weld lasted 3 months.
Replaced entire line and finally got that one stopped. That sucked BTW.

Following week the driver's output ...

I replaced just the CD drive in my 2004 Tahoe and it worked fine.
I purchased it from replacementradios.com.
Unfortunately they don't have one for the GXP, as I need one myself.

So if you can find one somewhere, but I think it needs to be the
exact unit, as I had to transfer some wiring and stuff ...