Thanks, Bullet! I picked up a good used set of coils from Andrew, and the rest of the strut components from RA and she is good to go! Went to take her in for an alignment and found that 1 hub and both inner tie-rods are *shoot* so those are next. It's always something with this old girl.

Fantastic, Sir. I just texted ya.

Good morning, All. I have an '01 SE with 184K on her and have just snapped the driver's side front coil spring (front strut replacement has been on my list for years...so now's the time). I have been a member of this group since I bought her in Feb. 2014 and years ago I read a post with the separate ...

Thanks, ddalder!

[quote="ddalder"]I assume you replaced the hub(s) with new?

Measuring the hub with an ohm meter really isn't the best test since a short in the coil will still suggest it's intact. You should spin it and measure it with an AC volt meter. Photobucket isn't being very helpful in linking the video I ...

it could be that the system only engages in drive gears.

did you check the wires to the plug on bearing - see if you get good continuity.



Yes, I gave a quick inspection and did not see any issues prior to installing the new hubs. There were no idiot lights on the dash before I did the job and ...

Did you ever find a solution to this issue? I just changed my hubs, yesterday, and am having the same exact problem. No lights until I shift to either 'drive' or 'reverse' from 'park', and then they come on.

Fantastic job JaxxMan!

I had the same issue (I am down in Joliet) and the metal lip that the gas cap sealed against was rusted and pitted. After trying to clean it up and replacing the gas cap, itself, it still didn't work. I wandered through a boneyard until I found a filler neck with a good, rust-free lip on it and ...

Watches and putters, I am sorry that I missed responding to your question a month ago. All I had to do was take the tire off to have complete and total access to do the job. There is a small rectangular-ish access panel that pops off with a screwdriver to remove. Once that is off, you can easily get ...

Great....thank you!!!

Cool, N4B...thanks! Any clue on which would be a fuel system-safe lube to use to push the tube into the larger tube down below? I don't want to have to wrestle with it, too much, and have something happen to the connection at the tank.

I haven't replaced mine, yet, but there is no need to pull the wheel-well liner or drop the tank. There is a little panel behind the tire that pops off and gives full access. There is a worm-gear clamp behind it that holds the filler tube to the rubber section that is also clamped to the tank. When ...

Gotcha...thanks!

Does that end up with the same non-porous, solid, and sealed finish as the por-15, Maxi?

Redfury (or anyone else), is there a quality rust-preventive rattle can that I can buy? All of the POR-15 is brush-on (that I have seen) and I was hoping to do thinner coats than that. Or is this material that thin to begin with?

Thanks, Redfury....I'll do that!

I found one, today, at another boneyard. Came out relatively easy with minor swearing. There is a small amount of rust on the lip, but I can take that off with brushes on a dremel and seal it somehow. The nice thing about having it off is the fact that it will be easier to clean up as opposed to ...

Ok, well here's what happened. Went to one of my local boneyards and went through the Bonnies and LeSabres. All of them had a completely rusted metal lip on their filler necks so they were useless to me. A couple had wasp nests inside the gas door so be careful of THAT when your checking...I hate ...

Got it, Boss....thank you.