Fuel Filler Tube question

[Jason H.]

My fuel filler tube top (metal part that cap screws to) is very rusty and it's throwing a code, repeatedly. I see that the metal top has little tabs to lock it onto the tube, itself. Does that mean that I can just replace the metal top of the tube with a new part (well, one not rusted out)? If I can, is it just a matter of removing the large grommet and taking the metal ring off? Also, if I can, how do I acquire that specific part? I cannot find anywhere to purchase it separately.

[96 SSEi]

look up into the wheel well and you will see the piping to the tank - it may just be a matter of replacing the whole filler neck and cap with standard screw type, as long as it will hold pressure.

[Jason H.]

I could replace the whole neck, but it's a $90 + ship part. I didn't know if I could swap out the top of it for a few bucks. I didn't know if anybody in here has ever done that, before, since it looks as though the metal comes off after bending 4 tabs.

[harofreak00]

You might be able to get the metal piece off, but that's not how it designed to be serviced. You will only find the entire neck as a replacement. I've done the replacement, its more difficult than it needs to be, lol

[nos4blood70]

You might be able to get the metal piece off, but that's not how it designed to be serviced. You will only find the entire neck as a replacement. I've done the replacement, its more difficult than it needs to be, lol

Please elaborate further. I've got the same issue, got a CEL from the filler neck. Car reeks of fuel from the wheel well when the tank is full. Gotta take care of this by December when emissions testing rolls around.

[Jason H.]

Thanks, guys. I'm going to take a trip to the boneyard in a couple of days and see what I can do. I will keep you posted.

[harofreak00]

It seems like the rubber coupler that clamps onto the filler neck gets fused onto the plastic, they are difficult to separate. You'll need a long screwdriver to pry them apart along with some lube. And its hard to get any good leverage to pull it out because you're working inside the wheel well.

[Jason H.]

Got it, Boss....thank you.

[nos4blood70]

Thanks Andrew!

[Jason H.]

Ok, well here's what happened. Went to one of my local boneyards and went through the Bonnies and LeSabres. All of them had a completely rusted metal lip on their filler necks so they were useless to me. A couple had wasp nests inside the gas door so be careful of THAT when your checking...I hate those a-holes! I did, however, find an '03 Olds Aurora that I had access to the neck, so I played with it to check the difficulty of this job...thanks to Haro's warning. I did not have to remove the wheel-well since there is an access panel that pops off, easily. All in all, the job was relatively easy and I imagine the hardest part would be to get the old grommet that surrounds the neck out. For this instance, on the Olds, I just cut it. So, you CANNOT just replace the top metal piece of these necks (even though they have the 4 tabs and look as though they will come off). It appears as though the plastic of the filler neck was molded around the metal, spring-loaded, flap inside the opening of the tube. There is no way to get that assembly apart without destroying it. So, I guess to correct my SES code for this, I have to find an entire unit at another yard or purchase one.
Thanks for your input, gentlemen.
nos4blood, I hope this helps you, also.

[nos4blood70]

Thanks for the info. If you do get a new or used neck, let me know how it goes!

[Jason H.]

I found one, today, at another boneyard. Came out relatively easy with minor swearing. There is a small amount of rust on the lip, but I can take that off with brushes on a dremel and seal it somehow. The nice thing about having it off is the fact that it will be easier to clean up as opposed to trying to do it while it is behind the gas door. There are still nice ones out there. My buddy works at this yard and didn't even charge me for it. So I go from $90 for a new one to free.

[redfury]

I just sanded the perimeter of mine with 220 grit to get the rust off, ran over it with a scouring pad to polish it up a little, and put two coats of POR-15 on the sealing surfaces and let dry a few hours. Put the cap back on, cleared the code...so far so good.

[Jason H.]

Thanks, Redfury....I'll do that!

[Jason H.]

Redfury (or anyone else), is there a quality rust-preventive rattle can that I can buy? All of the POR-15 is brush-on (that I have seen) and I was hoping to do thinner coats than that. Or is this material that thin to begin with?

[maxi426]

Permatex Rust Treatment

[Jason H.]

Does that end up with the same non-porous, solid, and sealed finish as the por-15, Maxi?

[maxi426]

No. It's more like a thin conversion coating before painting. You can spray POR15, but it still adds some thickness.

[Jason H.]

Gotcha...thanks!

[watchesandputters]

You might be able to get the metal piece off, but that's not how it designed to be serviced. You will only find the entire neck as a replacement. I've done the replacement, its more difficult than it needs to be, lol

When you replaced your's were you able to simply remove the wheel well liner and have full access to take care of things? The only other references to doing the repair I could find suggested dropping the tank was necessary but I just have a hard time believing that's actually the case. Thanks in advance for your time and thoughts.