The details of this bothered me from the moment I read it, because it just didn't fit well with how lighting circuits operate. Yes, a bulb is a resistive load, but they operate by applying a fixed supply voltage to it, and whatever its resistive load, it lights up at whatever brightness it was designed to, given a known voltage. A bulb could be 10 ohms or 10,000 ohms, and you still just apply a fixed voltage (12v) across it, and it will draw whatever current its resistive load will draw. The lighting circuit doesn't really care how much current the bulb draws, provided it is within the capacity of the supply and wires to supply it.

I consulted my FSM about the Lamp Monitor's "Circuit Operation" section, and it verifies that the Adaptive Lamp Monitor Control Module monitors each lighting circuit by looking at voltage across internal resistors in each monitored lighting circuit. (Fixed resistors in the Lamp Monitor Control Module.) "If the voltage drop across one of these resistors decreases by a certain percentage, the Adaptive Lamp Monitor Module recognizes this as a lamp outage and communicates this information over the serial data line to the Driver Information Center (DIC). The DIC then displays an outage and sounds a slow chime for 5 seconds. The Adaptive Lamp Monitor Module is adaptive because it may be used in vehicles with various lighting configurations. This module recognizes and adapts to a particular lighting configuration when the Ignition Switch is in RUN and the park lamps are turned on. This module must relearn the vehicle lighting configuration if the battery is disconnected."

So just to clarify this, the Lamp Monitor does not measure the resistance of the light bulbs and their wiring. It measures voltage drops across its own internal resistors for each circuit.

It would be very unusual, in my opinion, for this type of circuit to directly measure a resistance, rather than a voltage. Indeed, it measures voltages.

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PontiacDad at WCBF `08: "By any chance, was his name. . .Radomir?"

R.I.P. 10/31/15: 1997 SE: "Silver Shadow"
`05 Mercedes S500

It's fine. It's almost certainly overkill. Crimp connector the wires together and heatshrink over that should be plenty. If done properly, a crimp connector alone is typically sufficient, the heatshrink just gives it some extra protection.

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PontiacDad at WCBF `08: "By any chance, was his name. . .Radomir?"

R.I.P. 10/31/15: 1997 SE: "Silver Shadow"
`05 Mercedes S500

BillBoost37 from BonnevillePro (nebonnevilleclub) calls the DIC "Gestappo" because it actually cares about bulbs. It's been known on the clubs that LED bulbs can't go into our cars because their decreased load on the line sets off the DIC.

I fixed my car up to have a clean DIC with no bulbs out at all. Then, I installed some 1157 and 194 LEDs. Two in the front clear corners because they're clear when off and amber when on, and then a couple in the back. Like clockwork, the DIC came on instantly and showed bulbs out in the front and in the back. Now that I know my DIC works and I can go with normal bulbs, I'd like to experiment with the thingie and see if I can make it work.

From digging under the dash, I remember that there's an onslaught of relays and such in the middle. I'm going to go through my newly received FSMs and trace the circuits to see which relays are used to monitor these bulbs. This might clarify a few things. Of course, it's all in due time. I'd first like to keep fixing strange light outages and that pesky front speaker amp.

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94 SSEi - Project car
99 SLE - Tuned with different parts and such
85 Porsche 944 - Daily driver
68 Chevy C-10 - Free truck! Needs parts.

Bad news! The tweeter on one of my Infinity Kappa 5.25" speakers is bad!

I hooked up some Sony 6.5" speakers that I have in a truck box I got for free. They worked just fine and had excellent bass. I figured out then that it's a speaker problem, and it turns out that when I unplug the tweeters on the Kappa speakers, everything works just fine. There's a crossover box that comes with the Kappa speakers, and I have it all hooked up correctly - just as it was before the last Bonneville disassembly.

I found some other pair of tweeters and hoped I was going to have component speakers, but those tweeters are blown. They don't have any sound coming out of them! Plus, I may have consequently pulled them apart for the extra screws...

The Infinity speakers sound so much better than the Sony ones when they're a complete set, and maybe even now. The crossover box does work, though, and with some cheap tweeters I found this out. If I can find some really good tweeters, I could have ~components instead of all-in-one speakers!

Absolutely nothing else has been done today but troubleshooting speakers. Soon, I'll continue cleaning all the grounds... Right after I'm finished listening to amazing audio.

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94 SSEi - Project car
99 SLE - Tuned with different parts and such
85 Porsche 944 - Daily driver
68 Chevy C-10 - Free truck! Needs parts.

Ok, my next focus is figuring out why I have no interior lights turn on when I open the doors and why the dash doesn't light up with the auto headlights. The interior lights work when I turn them on via the headlight knob, and the dash lights turn on when I manually turn on the headlights. The headlight/interior light/twilight sentinel control knob and innards item has already been replaced, but it all acts the same. The rheostat on the replacement is a bit worse, though.

If I can't fix this by the time I can drive the car, I'm doing some major Radomirian wiring!

Amp & speaker issues have been split from this thread to:
http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=1188

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94 SSEi - Project car
99 SLE - Tuned with different parts and such
85 Porsche 944 - Daily driver
68 Chevy C-10 - Free truck! Needs parts.