Mine is a little different though. Must be stand-alone, must be electric, and typical minimum initial investment.
Parts list:

3400 oil pump (already have)
windshield wiper motor (already have)
A/C evaporator core from the original '86 A/C system (already have)
Absolute rated 5-micron filter ($80 for filter and housing)


The plan is to cram the pump/motor in some of the space previously occupied by the trans. I would keep it below the oil level so the pump is always submerged. I would have to make an adapter to couple the motor to the pump. If the DIY pump doesn't work out I can always come back and use a normal scavenge pump instead. It would feed into the cooler and then the filter, and the return would plumb right where the pickup is for the pickup for the OE pump.

What I'd like to learn more about is that fancy braided hose stuff. Is that just for dress-up? Is there a size chart for -AN stuff? How does -AN compare to NPT? I've never worked with -AN fittings and having issues finding time to research it all. I'm planning on sourcing the filter through McMaster Carr.

Things I've already thought about:
I have a rebuilt engine. The bearing clearances are opened up to about .0015" or so. Same issue that every rebuilt 3800 has, stock journal clearances are somewhere between .0002 and .001". The four engines I've had apart have been in the that range at least after ~200k miles. Which means in order to maintain oil pressure at hot idle with what a machine shop can deliver we need either a larger oil pump or a heavier oil, and with no aftermarket high-volume pumps, I wouldn't be surprised if this is why I've heard of a lot of 3800's not lasting after a rebuild. Journal bearings are little funny, at low RPM they need higher supply pressure to maintain the oil film, but as rpm increases input pressure to maintain the oil film decreases. Compromising the hot idle oil pressure further is just not a good idea.
Wiper motor reliability: I've never seen a motor actually fail. 400k+ miles on our Montana, 310 on my truck, 317 on the SSEi, all original wiper motors in typical Michigan weather. Only problems I've seen are either motor brushes, transmission or electric delay controls. These motors are also dirt cheap at the u-pull. If it doesn't work out long-term there are aftermarket scavenge pumps available too.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

For some stuff, braided hose with good connectors and all that jazz is pretty important, but for a ~0 pressure system like youre envisioning it would be totally dressup. I would say that if done right, the hose ends and connectors would be less likely to leak, but youd have more adapters in the path and it would turn your budget on its head.

For the idea itself, I would strongly consider a different pump, but its not a failure critical issue either. I would venture to guess that a washer fluid pump would live a lot shorter life if pumping A)a thicker liquid, B)A much hotter liquid and C)Continuously. Youll want signifigant volume to do any real cooling. Remember, a typical oil cooler setup cools ALL the oil before sending it through the engine. Youre talking about cooling a little bit of it at a time while its in the pan.

This does get me thinking about dry sump and semi dry sump setups. How hard would it be to simply add a belt driven pump using a remote filter setup and a check valve?

_________________
02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

I get why you would use a 3400 pump and external motor since it's cam driven stock. But.. I would suggest spending the coin on a motor designed to be run all the time, hot, and with more drag as mentioned. Even if it's the wiper arm vice fluid motor. And add a oil pressure kill switch for WOT safety.

And what would you do about pressure regulation?

You could definitely pick up some power from windage losses if you go with a full dry sump. The crank won't have to plow through the oil at that point.

And the 37* flare on AN connections seal much better than the threads of NPT connections.

What about fitting a wider scroll S1 pump in a S2 cover? or running a S1 cover? I've read the S1 has a wider scroll but I've never compared the two.

_________________

95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

We've got a pretty good windage tray to begin with. A lot of power in dry sump systems is gained from a strong vacuum on the crank case helping to seal the rings better.

_________________
02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

I'm thinking this would just keep the oil in the pan clean and cool. It wouldn't be directly feeding the OE pump, that's just a strategic placement of the return line. I figure this would probably add 3 quarts to the oil capacity.

I have an LG3 cover, a series 1 cover, just sitting here. I didn't realize the pump was different to the series 2.

I might have found a scavenge pump for this, price is right.



Dry sump does sound interesting though. But don't I need a special oil pan for that?

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

A different oil pan can be used bit I don't think it has to be different. Usually they're a lot shallower. The trick would be getting everything plumbed into a cast pan with no leaks. Dry sump oil pumps are pretty spendy though. All the plumbing for that would definately need to be an and figuring out how to bypass the factory pump would be one of the first steps.

With the series 1 vs series 2 pumps, o have heard the s1 is a little better, bilut I have no idea if its possible to use ob the s2 engine. I imagine if one were very determined he could mill out a pocket of the extra width in the pump cover and mill the gerotor down to not interfere with the timing gear. Sounds daunting.

_________________
02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

Sounds like a long walk for a short drink of water...

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

I was thinking I could just swap the entire timing cover over. More investigation required.

For the dry sump:
Use the stock pump to pull the oil from the pan?

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

No, because the stock pump couldn't pull it fast enough to keep up. The dry sump pump creates a vacuum in the sump.

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Our windage tray is pretty meh.. especially with the aluminum pans. Trap doors, directional mesh, and a crank scraper would be much better on non dry sump setup. All that isn't as necessary without the crank churning through oil in the pan.

I ran a mechanical vac pump setup for a while on my L36 and it was hitting 8-14" Hg. IIRC anything past 15-18" and you're in danger of messing up seals designed to work with PCV pressure. It was suggested to flip the rear main and I forget what else. It's hard to say if it really did much. It would do more in a boosted setup to relieve the extra blow-by pressure though.

I still stand by the fact that windage is one of the main reasons to go dry sump.

_________________

95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

Hard to say, but it doesn't seem to me that the oil level is even close to the bottom of the tray. I'd imagine a lot of the windage would come from oil draining down through the galley. I did briefly look at making a crank scraper but quickly gave up. Definately wouldn't hurt, unless it fell off and blocked the pickup.

_________________
02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

Dry sump pumps aren't cheap...

I have enough timing covers sitting around I could probably make one, three gerotor pumps in parallel, should be enough flow there. I'd just need the pump housing and part of the galleys that feed them, stack them all together with bolts through the existing 5 holes...

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

I think I'm going to stick with the standalone cooler and filter for now. Dry sump costs are not in the budget if I want to have this done for the next big meet.

But I will be trying to get the larger pump in, works out nicely with the timing chain upgrade plan.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

I'll definately follow along and see how it works.

_________________
02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

OK so braided hose...

Where do you get it from? How do the fittings work - is it just a compression fitting? How can I tell if a fitting is -AN? Who seems to have the best prices?

I found this, looks like -AN fittings should be easily to tell apart from NPT:
http://www.gre6.com/ansize

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

Here's how to assemble:

http://www.bonnevillepro.com/forums/vie ... 4&p=166378

_________________

95 SLE... a keeper. 241k miles. Low and Slow.
97 BMW 528i
98 Infiniti vq35'd i30: 13.3@104mph, 30MPG Hwy (RIP)
02 Jag X-type
03 BMW M5
05 Chevy Cobalt LS
07 Infiniti G35s 6MT (Sold)
07 Ducati Monster S2R 800 with DS1000 swap
83 Yamaha IT175K
72 Yamaha DS7: '74 RD250 swap, JL chambers

Info on dropping a 92-99: Here.

Summit and jegs both have good assortments of hose and fittings. Just go to the fittings and hose section of either place and start drooling.

_________________
02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

I've picked up a check valve so I can tie into the new system to have the electric pump prime the oil in the block prior to start-up.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

Not sure if this does you any good at all, But the 95 L27 used the Series II crank, Not sure what if any difference there might have been with the oil pump in that L27 timing cover.. all I can say is that 95 was a freaky little odd ball..

Do you already have the oil pressure kit installed in it?

Yeah I do have the pressure kit in.

_________________
Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67