A long-time racing buddy swears by wrapping a bolt-stud's threads with white Teflon tape. He tells me this will stop bolts /studs from vibrating loose. He only makes one layer of the threaded area, not multiple applications or smaller/cut sections.

On my GMC truck with headers and ARP studs, they did not come loose after being installed and 1 tighten up 2 days after some heat n cool cycles. I had the truck over 2 years and no exhaust leaks/ loosening. Headers were Elite 14 ga. ceramic coated. Not lightweight at all!

Hope it works for all.

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D.T.

While I can't vouch for teflon tape, I never had any issues with header bolts on an old 302 that was in an f-150 I used to drive. I only drove it for about 18 months, but in all that time, the bolts never backed out. I didn't do anything but torque them to spec and checked after a couple heat cycles, much like you.

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I have a Bonneville, it's white and N/A!

Mod List: Hood and Fender "adjustment" - "Enhanced" A/C compressor clutch - Extra loud PS Pump - Mega sensitive CKPS - Audible Rear Drums - Lowered headliner - Custom stained upholstery - "Brown Devil" weight reduction kit - Low Friction Belt. More to come!

I bet it is amazing how many people "skip" that re-torque after a couple of days of expansion and contraction. If the bolts are loose headers will droop ever so slightly. When they do that, warping is already starting.

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D.T.

What about loctite?

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-Car Guy Carl
"Penelope" - 2003 SLE - 250k Miles
"Sydney" - 2000 Honda S2000 - 101k miles

I'm a big fan of Loctite...don't know why it would not work. They have hi-temp versions so it could stand up to header heat.

It would be harder to loosen than a bolt with Teflon tape in the event you needed to make some changes.

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D.T.

Another option, in case you have serious issues with them: http://www.stage8.com/

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Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock

Never had a problem, myself. Id imagine aluminum heads would be worse than iron for this.

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02 SSEi-Turning money into tire smoke, very efficiently.

I have a friend with a GXP GP that we did headers on and he said all the research told him to get the locking header bolts because they like to back out. I would assume because you can't torque them as much?

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-Austin-
1988 LE, Intercooled L67 loading......

2000 SSEi R.I.P. Dead now :( INTENSE FWI, polished LIM, P&P supercharger, custom radiator, standalone trans cooler, trans-go shift kit (donating to the 88)

2002 2500HD Silverado with the 8.1 Vortec and Alison tranny. Likes to eat GT Mustangs and lots of tires, and all while stock!

I prefer studs for manifolds/headers. I never needed to re-torque with mine.

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Boost addict


The Fleet:
'93 SSEi - Twincharged + manual Build thread
'97 Camaro - Top swap
'05 STS - V8, AWD, her DD
'92 Trofeo - Fair weather DD
'99 Montana - top swap 3800
'04 Sierra 2500HD - LLY Duramax

Current project:
Something cool, trust me.

Upcoming projects:
'92 Bonneville SSE
'87 LeSabre T-type
'67 LeSabre

Gone to greener pastures:
'84 Sierra Classic - Twin turbo 3800
'97 LeSabre - Top swap

RIP:
'86 LeSabre - pictures
'93 SE - L67

If you have the access to slip the header over the studs...

Yeah, like he said, aluminum heads. The LS4 is all-aluminum.

_________________
Bye Bye:

RIP sandrock