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Like the title says, 98 Bonneville SE 3.8 142k miles won't start. I was backing out of the driveway and it just died. First thing I thought was fuel pump. Hooked up pressure gauge and reads 40psi with key on/cranking. I removed the fuel line next to the Schrader valve and fuel barely dropped out. Key on and really nothing comes out. Don't know how I'm getting 40psi on gauge. Fuel pump relay clicks with key on/cranking. Tested spark, good. Hooked up scanner, Cam sensor signal YES and 3x and 18x have signal. Guessing these are for crank sensor. I'm still thinking fuel pump cuz fuel should be shooting out of the fuel line with key on. Can't hear pump over dinging from turning key on. Hate to drop the tank before being sure. Also, I'm not opposed to cutting an access door. I've done it on other cars, however this pump has metal lines that run about 18 inches to the pass side of car. Would be a big hole. Anyone done that successfully before? I plan on being the last owner of this car and driving it/towing it to the junkyard someday.

Seems like the pump is most likely, if you can verify it's getting power. Did you try the green pump primer/test circuit? Look for the green connector/wire by the battery and run a wire to it from the positive post. The pump should kick on then. It bypasses the relay and fuse.

I had pulled the return hose on accident. Pulled the pressure hose and put a cup under it, turned key on, and got about 2 oz of fuel. Pulled fuel pressure regulator and everything looks clean and clear. I am going to use a noid light on the injectors. Does anyone have wiring diagram for injectors? Does the cam or crank signal send info to the PCM to fire the injectors? Thanks for any help

Ok just tested injectors with noid light and got nothing. Tested with power probe while cranking and I have no power or ground to either wires on injector harness. If anyone has a wiring diagram for injectors or insight to what fires the injectors I'm all ears

Sounds like a bad crank sensor which means the PCM isn't sending injector pulses. Does the tachometer rise while cranking? It should crank around 200rpm.

However, the pink wire going to each injector should have 12v. The injector fires when the PCM grounds it.

Well I didn't know there were fuses by the passenger kickpanel. The injector fuse was blown. Replaced and car started. However I think there must be a wire rubbing somewhere to cause the extra resistance and blown fuse. I will drive around with spare fuses from now on

Excellent, easy fix...for now. Any presence of mice on top of the engine?

My brother in law had a problem on his 2001SLE.
Twice within a month red squirrels had eaten through the injector wires.
I would check the wires and see if they were chewed on.

I can't see anything obvious yet. Currently sitting at a grocery store and car won't start. Just went thru 3 fuses. So I guess I'll have to investigate further

NastyNate98 wrote:I can't see anything obvious yet. Currently sitting at a grocery store and car won't start. Just went thru 3 fuses. So I guess I'll have to investigate further

You can figure out what side the short is in the harness by disconnecting the C101 connector and see if it keeps blowing fuses. However, I'd definitely think it would somewhere on the engine harness itself.

C101 (66 cavities)
Body harness to the engine harness, right rear of the engine compartment near the strut tower
#3 on the diagram

Tore into the engine harness today and when I got to cylinder 2 (first cylinder in rear bank) found the power wire rubbing on the valve cover gasket. Repaired the wire and so far so good! Should have started back there, since I tore all the electrical tape off the front of the harness first. But you don't know til you know. Want to post a pic but can't on the phone. Will get on the computer later