She just won't cut the cheese no mo'
Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 5:38 pm
So, the Dirt bag is taking a dirt nap. She's become super finicky about starting up. Started a little bit of this last winter when it hit below zero temps and I blew the plenum up using starting fluid like a dummy. Fixed that up, she had run great up until the weather started getting rough, my tiny ship was tossed....
Crank crank crank crank crank, nothing. A burp here and there. I could get it to start if I modulated the throttle around. Then the -30F temps came and I didn't even try. Brand new battery and a jump start wouldn't get it to even burp for me. So, the warmer weather finally came and I was able to get it started in the morning, let it run until it got up to temp, shut it down and drove it home that night. Now, crank crank crank crank crank...nothing...unless I modulate the throttle, then it will start, but it will not idle now. Checked codes, I did have a crank sensor code. It make sense, but it will start and run, just not at idle. It's not running ideally now either. SO, I'm leaning towards the crank sensor, but I can't seem to correlate having to manipulate the throttle so much and get it to start running.
I'm probably going to replace the CKP, but I figured I'd start a thread about it.
As it sits, this is what I do know. Super cold out after running the fuel pump a few times, the shraeder valve only trickled fuel out. When I drove it to our shop and checked it after driving, it shot fuel out. Fuel pressure tests on it shows 50 psi, but I'm not sure how much I trust the tester for accuracy. I had a suspicion of leaking injectors, but pulling the rail out and priming the fuel system produced no leaking fuel anywhere. Battery is new as of December, new spark plug wires. Plenty of fuel in the tank. Up until just recently, I was driving it and my fuel trims looked pretty good, other than a bit high of a long term fuel trim ( add fuel ) at idle, but my mileage was spot on.
The ability to start and run has decreased exponentially since the deep freeze we went through. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator with another that I had, just to remove that possibility.
I don't have much more than a multimeter to test things out, but I do have the tools and ability to replace the CKP. Seems the most likely culprit at this point.
Crank crank crank crank crank, nothing. A burp here and there. I could get it to start if I modulated the throttle around. Then the -30F temps came and I didn't even try. Brand new battery and a jump start wouldn't get it to even burp for me. So, the warmer weather finally came and I was able to get it started in the morning, let it run until it got up to temp, shut it down and drove it home that night. Now, crank crank crank crank crank...nothing...unless I modulate the throttle, then it will start, but it will not idle now. Checked codes, I did have a crank sensor code. It make sense, but it will start and run, just not at idle. It's not running ideally now either. SO, I'm leaning towards the crank sensor, but I can't seem to correlate having to manipulate the throttle so much and get it to start running.
I'm probably going to replace the CKP, but I figured I'd start a thread about it.
As it sits, this is what I do know. Super cold out after running the fuel pump a few times, the shraeder valve only trickled fuel out. When I drove it to our shop and checked it after driving, it shot fuel out. Fuel pressure tests on it shows 50 psi, but I'm not sure how much I trust the tester for accuracy. I had a suspicion of leaking injectors, but pulling the rail out and priming the fuel system produced no leaking fuel anywhere. Battery is new as of December, new spark plug wires. Plenty of fuel in the tank. Up until just recently, I was driving it and my fuel trims looked pretty good, other than a bit high of a long term fuel trim ( add fuel ) at idle, but my mileage was spot on.
The ability to start and run has decreased exponentially since the deep freeze we went through. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator with another that I had, just to remove that possibility.
I don't have much more than a multimeter to test things out, but I do have the tools and ability to replace the CKP. Seems the most likely culprit at this point.