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I think I "might" have found out where the fuel odor was emanating from. I was poking around last week and saw that gasoline was "streaming" (YIKES!!) from this fuel line that (for some reason?) disappears below the hood fuse case. Anyone know the part I need to look for? I'm thinking it "should be" an easy repair but I'm not going to assume.
Above image shows the fuel streaming out, that looks "kinda dangerous" to me.
Here is an older image of that same line which (at one point apparently) had a tag on it. Still not the comprehensive end-to-end photo I'm hoping but forum "experts" may not need more info to know what it is and what I need to get and do.

It could be an easy repair. If it's far enough away from where the nylon lines are pressed on the steel line that goes back to the tank, all you need is to cut the line right on the puncture (make sure it's a perfectly straight cut) and a Dorman 800-193 (3/8") or 800-191 (5/16") and with a little grease on the line just push them on.

If you've never used those fittings before, they can be a little tricky to get right. They have a seal inside that the line has to push past, and if you didn't grease up the end of the line before pushing it in it can be really hard to push past the seal. It has to seat all the way down past that seal or it will leak.

The good news is these push-fit unions are far easier to use than trying to press fit a fitting inside the nylon.

Awesome, thanks for that fast feedback!

- I see. So I get my "Xacto" out and give it a surgical "slice and splice" and I read you loud and clear, the cut has to be flat and neat or it will leak and the grease is essential to making the connection secure also.
Do we know if this is a 3/8" or 5/16" line?

depends on if it's a return line or a supply line. Return line is the smaller of the two. I think it translates to 8mm or 10mm as well. I used one on my return line by the fuel filter to repair a damaged connector end. Works great, but absolutely need to have a clean cut so it won't leak. You can remove them though by depressing the ends and sliding them back off if they do leak...

I believe smaller of the two. I just know I never return the unused parts so if I can avoid buying both, I'll save a couple $. (Seeing them between $6 ~ 12 each) and I'm guessing a fresh bladed matte knife or Xacto is the preferred tool for this. I'll come back with the results! - thanks folks.

for a temp fix, get small screw clamp, piece of rubber hose and contact cement
cut rubber to be larger by 1 inch - put cement on edges
put on hole and clamp with the screw clamp - there should be no leak to drive

at least you can get it to location for proper repair

Thanks for the temp workaround, I didn't need to drive it because I had another car available to go get the part. Thank you though and yes, poverty does make a person do things they'd rather not.

I think I messed this one up. A combination of awkward access and trying to get things done too quickly. Either the end wasn't sliced perpendicular enough OR not smooth enough OR I just can't get a grip on it to tighten the fitting enough as it's very close to the firewall. Either way, it's slightly better than it was (I think) because it was spraying out like a nozzle, now it's one drip every 14 seconds. I saw upon closer exam that the same fuel line had been repaired once prior using a brass pressure fitting. Not sure if that route might have been better for these close quarters or not. I can't see how this line ends (or if it ends) near the firewall or if this is a continuation of a fuel line that goes back to the tank or ??. Should I be replacing the whole line? Is that a readily available part? I see that the Dorman isn't made to be removed once in place so I don't know if another workaround will do. Open to suggestions.

np, both lines end at the fuel pump in tank - try to repair again and take the time to do it properly - replacing that whole line looks to be lots of work and PIA.

if you do decide on the whole line, contact this guy

....http://www.bonnevillesunlimited.com/...... he is admin on this site ; harofreak00

good luck!

I replaced the nylon from fliter to fuel rail because I got leaks in new spots several months after repair.
The worst area is where they are exposed to heat rising from exhaust manifolds and I would suggest replacing from firewall to rail.

96 SSEi wrote:np, both lines end at the fuel pump in tank - try to repair again and take the time to do it properly - replacing that whole line looks to be lots of work and PIA.

if you do decide on the whole line, contact this guy

....http://www.bonnevillesunlimited.com/...... he is admin on this site ; harofreak00

good luck!

Different lines are used on pre-2000 Bonnevilles and he only has 2000+ parts.

SS_Tubes on Ebay sells sets of the 3 fuel lines (supply, return and EVAP), spanning from the fuel rail to the nylon lines at the tank.
(I don't recall what the underhood setup is for the EVAP, besides a vacuum hose.)

There may be others selling lines.

You can heat the nylon replacement lines to make bends and Dorman also sells 90 degree quick connect fittings.

Some people replace their steel line with nylon but I don't believe it is strong enough to withstand assaults from gravel and other road debris---despite some vehicles using nylon fuel lines underneath the car.