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I put the used EGR valve in the car, and while I was at it I changed the super charger oil. I went to start the car and the car was running extremely bad. I thought it may have been the super charger oil as I topped it off to the top. But I removed some and it still was still running really bad.

So I put my old EGR back in the car and now the car will not stay on. It will start for a 1/4 of a second and shut off.

Any idea what is going on here?


The car was running like a champion before and the old reason for the new EGR was to get a code to go away.

Carefully recheck all vacuum hoses to be sure none broke or were accidentally disconnected.
Ditto for electrical connectors.
Under the supercharger snout there's a vacuum T that's prone to breaking.
The tube for the EGR is prone to cracking, particularly underneath, where it isn't obvious.
If those are all OK, then check the underhood and underseat fuses and make sure none of them blew.

MKMike wrote:Carefully recheck all vacuum hoses to be sure none broke or were accidentally disconnected.
Ditto for electrical connectors.
Under the supercharger snout there's a vacuum T that's prone to breaking.
The tube for the EGR is prone to cracking, particularly underneath, where it isn't obvious.
If those are all OK, then check the underhood and underseat fuses and make sure none of them blew.

Thanks, It was kind of difficult to get to the inlet with a funnel on the super charger. I will have to look around for leaks. How would one look for leaks?

For future supercharger oil replacements, you'll find that a syringe makes it much easier.
1 for dirty oil. 1 for clean oil.
The techinfo section of the forum has a great deal of helpful info http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... m.php?f=38

Not to be a wiseguy, but are you sure the car has gas in the tank?
There are also fuses that protect vital components such as the fuel pump and ECM/PCM, etc..

Since it won't run, it sounds like it's a big leak--or disconnected sensor connector.
With the car not running, your only option is visual.
Did you reinstall the EGR valve gasket? Was it in perfect shape. If not, that may be the leak.
Also, check the vacuum line coming off the brake booster and make sure the plastic check valve it connects to is properly seated/not cracked.
I'd remove the engine cover to make sure that no vacuum lines have disconnected or broken beneath there, either.
You may need an inspection mirror to see underneath the EGR pipe and look very closely for cracks.
In the EGR area, you have a MAP sensor which has both a vacuum line and an electrical connector. The connector locks are prone to breaking, so I'd check to see if the connector is snug and the vacuum line is connected.
2 of the 3 sensors that your ECM reads all the time are in the throttle body. Make sure that the connectors are fully seated.
(The 3rd one is the ECT, which in below the thermostat.)

Other than these it is possible that something else just happened to go bad at this time.

From my experience with original and used EGR valves you gota buy new if you want your car to run. I tried 3-4 used ones with no luck and unsure of what the problem was before I gave in and bought a new one.

MKMike wrote:For future supercharger oil replacements, you'll find that a syringe makes it much easier.
1 for dirty oil. 1 for clean oil.
The techinfo section of the forum has a great deal of helpful info http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... m.php?f=38

Not to be a wiseguy, but are you sure the car has gas in the tank?
There are also fuses that protect vital components such as the fuel pump and ECM/PCM, etc..

Since it won't run, it sounds like it's a big leak--or disconnected sensor connector.
With the car not running, your only option is visual.
Did you reinstall the EGR valve gasket? Was it in perfect shape. If not, that may be the leak.
Also, check the vacuum line coming off the brake booster and make sure the plastic check valve it connects to is properly seated/not cracked.
I'd remove the engine cover to make sure that no vacuum lines have disconnected or broken beneath there, either.
You may need an inspection mirror to see underneath the EGR pipe and look very closely for cracks.
In the EGR area, you have a MAP sensor which has both a vacuum line and an electrical connector. The connector locks are prone to breaking, so I'd check to see if the connector is snug and the vacuum line is connected.
2 of the 3 sensors that your ECM reads all the time are in the throttle body. Make sure that the connectors are fully seated.
(The 3rd one is the ECT, which in below the thermostat.)

Other than these it is possible that something else just happened to go bad at this time.

you'll find that a syringe makes it much easier.
I used a syringe to take it out, but didnt have a second to put it in. Used a small funnel

Not to be a wiseguy, but are you sure the car has gas in the tank?
I was driving the car an hour before hand and it ran excellent. About a half a tank left.


I will check out the other areas around it, I did a quick look around there and re-seating some of the vacuum lines but not dice. I really doubt it happened, but my fuel pump has been extremely loud the past few months, I doubt it broke during these procedures.

Evan0801 wrote:From my experience with original and used EGR valves you gota buy new if you want your car to run. I tried 3-4 used ones with no luck and unsure of what the problem was before I gave in and bought a new one.

I dont think it is the EGR itself that messed it up, maybe the seal around the base if anything. The car was running fantastic before I removed it and put the used one on..and did this supercharger oil change. The only reason I changed the EGR out was because I was getting a code for it. But from what I heard there could be a vacuum leak and the EGR could be fine. The EGR looked pretty new that came with the car, compared to the used one I got from HarroFreak. I am thinking it is a vacuum line with a hairline fracture or maybe something bigger now.

If I plan on replacing these lines, where is the best place to get vacuum lines? Are they something I can buy a roll of and cut to length?

The T under the super charger did indeed break, any idea where I can get one? Auto part stores only seem to have the male Ts

Edit: Most places dont carry rubber Ts like this. I was able to get Autozone to ship a couple to my house for tomorrow. I am hoping this will work okay, I know someone mentioned in another thread that this may be too small.

http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-17844-4 ... in=keyword

Glad you found the problem and posted about it.
On my 02 SSEI, I took the one off the fuel pressure regulator and used it under the SC snout, then I put the Dorman T on the FPR line.
I wish the dealers or even aftermarket suppliers sold these Ts but they don't, afaik.

Yeah no problem, anything I can do to help the community.

I am pretty displeased with aftermarket suppliers as well. I mean it's not like it is uncommon to have a plastic line that needs a T fitting. Oh well, I am really hoping that this is the only leak I have and that the fitting works. Any chance putting a little Vaseline or some sort of lubricant will help the tight fit?

Given the chance that they are petroleum based products--not a good idea.
A tiny amount of beeswax on the fitting might do the trick.
Avoid silicone products, as they will ruin your oxygen sensor--even when used in minute amounts, if what I've read is accurate.
Twisting while pulling/pushing aids in getting the parts apart/together.

Great, thanks!

Will post back with results, hopefully good ones

Just an update.

Those T's are a little small for the inlet under the supercharger. They fit the plastic vacuum lines fine, but for some reason the male end under the supercharger is huge (giggity).

I had to go back to the automotive store and get some more rubber adapters and plastic fittings to make the T's work. I was able to use the T for the connection on top of the engine, this worked out just fine. It doesnt look pretty but the car runs fine after a couple rough starts. Now I need to find out if the EGR code has been eliminated.

If I were to buy that complete GM vacuum kit, with all the new vacuum lines and Ts, where is the best place to get it? Price wise?

Thanks for everyone help.

'Thanks, It was kind of difficult to get to the inlet with a funnel on the super charger. I will have to look around for leaks. How would one look for leaks?'

the best way is to perform a propane test -One puts nozzle of propane near all vacuum lines and intake manifold, egr and throttle-body and see if idle changes.
the car needs to be running for this and if idle goes up, you have leak that is sucking in the propane.- do small areas at a time to pinpoint the leak.

Thanks for the update.

Yes, the supercharger is the supply, so it's larger.

x2 on the propane testing.
Some people use carburetor cleaner instead but you have to be careful.

Dealers are the only places I know of for the t and pipe assembly.

96 SSEi wrote:'Thanks, It was kind of difficult to get to the inlet with a funnel on the super charger. I will have to look around for leaks. How would one look for leaks?'

the best way is to perform a propane test -One puts nozzle of propane near all vacuum lines and intake manifold, egr and throttle-body and see if idle changes.
the car needs to be running for this and if idle goes up, you have leak that is sucking in the propane.- do small areas at a time to pinpoint the leak.

Interesting, so is this what I do?

1) Start car and let it settle down to a consistent idle.
2) take propane tank and open the nozzle
3) put open nozzle (essentially propane leaking into the air) next to certain locations
4) monitor for increased idle/RPMs


Am I understand correctly?

MKMike wrote:
Dealers are the only places I know of for the t and pipe assembly.

I was seeing anywhere from $35-$70 for the rebuild kits. Does this sound right?

markpelly1 wrote:Interesting, so is this what I do?

1) Start car and let it settle down to a consistent idle.
2) take propane tank and open the nozzle
3) put open nozzle (essentially propane leaking into the air) next to certain locations
4) monitor for increased idle/RPMs

Mostly correct; You should attach a length of flexible hose to the nozzle, so that you will release the propane into a small spot, rather than a broad area.

Read the entire section titled The Carb-Cleaner Trick for more ideas and how to info
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/ho ... cuum-leak/

markpelly1 wrote: I was seeing anywhere from $35-$70 for the rebuild kits. Does this sound right?

Not sure what you mean by a "rebuild kit"; It's a single assembly when sold by GM.
Post links and I'll let you know.

Supercharger Oil will not affect how the car runs. It's a closed gearcase, and you'll just destroy the geardrive without oil. It will make a horrible noise, but it won't cause it to run bad.

Did you replace the gasket when you swapped the EGR's? I'd guess you didn't, and that's the cause of your poor running, you induced a massive vacuum leak.

EDIT: Sorry, missed your vacuum T breaking. My advice above still stands. The kit is called a "vacuum harness" from GM, and cost me $26.00 in 2009, so $35 sounds about right, lol.

00Beast wrote:Did you replace the gasket when you swapped the EGR's? I'd guess you didn't, and that's the cause of your poor running, you induced a massive vacuum leak.

x2

Thought I had mentioned this but maybe I didn't.