PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

my air conditioning only blows hot air, I checked all the fuses they're fine, my dads friend said it might be the blend door but I wanted ask around to make sure.

Hi, with the air on, the aluminium pipe in front of passenger under hood should get cold and the compressor should cycle on and off-- if no go on both, you could be low on cool juice but an a/c guage will tell you for sure

I recharged it and it says it's fine, the compressor turns on but I haven't checked the pipe yet

jaroniles4 wrote:I recharged it and it says it's fine, the compressor turns on but I haven't checked the pipe yet

what psi are you reading? what is the pressure on low side?

1 with compressor on and
2 compressor off?(ambient pressure of system)- you can turn a/c off for this reading


Ok, I am assuming the a/c setup is similar to my 2000 SSEi- the pipe that gets cold will be the same pipe that you connected the filler guage- it will be cold in the area facing the cabin, not the front of car

Just because you charge it, doesn't mean it's running properly. Could be something electronic (blend door as you mentioned) or in the headunit, could be something mechanical like the orifice tube, accumlator, or drier.

I'm a DIY person too, but one system I recommend you leave to professionals is A/C. Why? The environmental issue is 1 (they are required to reclaim anything currently in the system and then recharge it/seal it). Second is people just jamming in more R-134a with that can of stuff, which the parts makers deem is "just connect this and it does it all for you...", when you think it's not working. They're kinda like the fix-a-flat's of the tire world. You need a proper mix of PAG oil (which also contains a die in order to leak trace), and refridgerant. You don't get that right mix and you can chunk a compressor, which ultimately leads to a bigger repair bill down the road.

hey, I have worked on several systems where there is enough refrigerant to acctuate the compressor but not enough to reach required pressure for system to work efficiently-- you should have minimum of 25psi with a/c off and it should increase to 60-120psi with compressor on and system pressurized- run 5 min-10
If there is no increase in pressure from ambient 25 psi, the compressor is not doing its job or quite the hidden leak1- just because the clutch engages by no means is a green light for compressor
DONOT CHARGE BEYOND 120PSI IS MY RULE- OVERCHARGING WILL GIVE YOU MORE HEADACHES.
RUNNING TO 'PROFESSIONALS' IS AN OPTION but you will throw money away( I dont trust mechanics- 90% are just the replace parts type--they make you sit in a box and wonder what the hell is taking so long??)and you will gain NO experience and learn NOTHING!!!
I dont know what you charged with but 134a is only for 'professionals ' here in Canada-- I use 12a and have no issues on more than 5 systems--the can is premixed with oil and dye and is equvilent to 1lb-- my 2000 is rated for 2 lbs approx- I have no scale and fancy equipment but you can achieve similar results with approximate weights by can and system pressure-- and using your brain

that said, I suggest you recheck your charge and pay attention to psi and the equivalent weight of can you used-- if still no go, you will need the two guage system to properly diagnose the system-- time to think of mechanic help but either a large hidden leak or bad compressor from my experience-- be sure you used the correct can!! dont be putting in 2lbs of dye or stopleak or oil-- just a waste $ and time.....and clog your system
if you can, give us some background- was it working last year, never worked, how long?....thanks good luck!!

oh, the doorblend-- I could be wrong, but if your heat goes from very hot to luke-warm, the door blend has >75% green light

also, before you recharged, did you check system for pressure? If there was none, there is a high probability that air is in the system-- unless you live in the middle of a dessert,there will be moisture with that air-- water + 134a will form HFlOaq-Hdrofluoric acid, which will rot your system so if there was no pressure before you charged, complete evacuation is needed-thieving mechanic- if you love your ride and want to be cool that is!! That is the reason I decided to go r 12a-- it is not CFC Chloro-fluro -carbon it is hydrocarbon based HC
that was the old kool juice standard that is banned- it eats the 03- ozone- that CFC has a tripple wammy!!!
H2O + clorine, florine and carbon can form HFLOaq and /or HClaq hydrochloric acid like whats in your tummy but more pure and concentrated=more rot

forgive me for the winded post but i LOVE CHEMISTRY- BASIC that is- advanced is lots of work AND I sparked a number with buddy.....lol







































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Whoa whoa whoa, hold up here.

First off, you have your R134a and R12 switched around.

Second, switching refrigerant types all willy nilly without giving thought to the properties and preparations necessary is a bad idea.

Third, this Bonneville was designed for R-134a. Stick with it unless you have a good reason to switch to something different.

Fourth, this Bonneville also uses a variable displacement compressor, which can have pressure readings close to what they should be even when low on refrigerant.

Fifth, the system can have anywhere from 50-150+PSI at rest alone, depending on temperature. On hot days high side pressures can easily crack 350 psi of compressed liquid. This is a bad day at minimum if this explodes in your face, and could mean disaster in the right conditions.

Yes, I mess with my own air conditioning to a point, but the level of danger is right up there with airbags. I recommend against messing with the system if you have no idea what is going on, especially when someone starts with 'my vents blow hot'.

However, airmix actuators are a notorious failure point on the 2000+ breed (Actually, pretty much any GM it seems like) and as was mentioned, feeling the lines going to the evaporator core are a good start. If they are both cold, and you are getting hot air out of the vents, the issue may be in the dash somewhere.

RJolly87 wrote:Whoa whoa whoa, hold up here.

First off, you have your R134a and R12 switched around.

Second, switching refrigerant types all willy nilly without giving thought to the properties and preparations necessary is a bad idea.

Third, this Bonneville was designed for R-134a. Stick with it unless you have a good reason to switch to something different.

Fourth, this Bonneville also uses a variable displacement compressor, which can have pressure readings close to what they should be even when low on refrigerant.

Fifth, the system can have anywhere from 50-150+PSI at rest alone, depending on temperature. On hot days high side pressures can easily crack 350 psi of compressed liquid. This is a bad day at minimum if this explodes in your face, and could mean disaster in the right conditions.

Yes, I mess with my own air conditioning to a point, but the level of danger is right up there with airbags. I recommend against messing with the system if you have no idea what is going on, especially when someone starts with 'my vents blow hot'.

However, airmix actuators are a notorious failure point on the 2000+ breed (Actually, pretty much any GM it seems like) and as was mentioned, feeling the lines going to the evaporator core are a good start. If they are both cold, and you are getting hot air out of the vents, the issue may be in the dash somewhere.

+1

NEVER mess with the high side unless you are properly trained and have the proper equipment.

R12 is pretty much impossible to find in the USA, was banned as a clorofluorocarbon (sp?) pollutant decades ago. Even classic cars have almost all been switched over to the 134a now. Once a system breaks down, it is nearly always best to go to the 134a. Putting 12 in a 134 system? eh....

My operating method for AC has been basically:
1. If the compressor will not cycle on, might be too low on refrigerant.
2. If the compressor cycles on but quickly back off, same.
3. If the compressor cycles on and stays, but system fails to get more than slightly cold, might be low.

4. Any of the above could also mean other issues, but refrigerant loss is most likely the culprit which begets other problems.

However, the low side gauge should indicate insufficient charge. Adding to a system which indicates sufficient charge/pressure is asking for trouble.

Had a Chrysler that pretty much asked for a pound a year, beginning with the expiration of the warranty. (no surprise there) Was OK with me. The last couple of years though, a can did not do enough, it took two. One spring, two worked, but the system ceased to function again in a week. Sorry kids, use the windows like I did at your age... and you get the sunroof as a bonus!

My 19 y/o E150 Luxo-van's system got cool but not cold, when I bought it 2 years ago. Compressor was a bit noisy too. Huge system, with rear air. Total listed I think 4.6 lbs?
Anyway, I figured a % of oil, added that, then added refrigerant at the rear line under the side. Took about a pound and a half. Compressor quieted, about 40 degrees coming out of the vents at highway speed, max cool. Brrrrr. Nice. Last summer it was not cooling quite as well, took half a pound to hit the sweet spot on the gauge. I'm good with that annually, and the compressor is still quiet. But... before a total system fail like on the Chrysler, I'll be seeking Pro help. Have to have AC in this big box. Likely it will take a long time for all that plumbing to properly evacuate.....

Thank you for backing me.

Not going to get into a penile measuring contest but being a former tech, there are just certain things I recommend people doing it on a Saturday afternoon, in their garage, without experience and/or the proper tools, not get in over their skis on. A/C systems is one of the few on my list and it's pretty high on that list.

Otherwise, I to am a DIY'er and I too feel taking it to a mechanic is pissing money away in most cases. But even I steer away from it in my private side just due to lack of proper test equipment. Everything I had was dealer sourced/owned, so...

But here is a 50,000 foot view. In a properly operating system, which means everything is working and the system is sealed, you should NEVER need to recharge it. At least not in the lifetime you own the vehicle. If the refridgerant is low needing charging, that means there is a leak. That also means that if the refridgerant got out, pretty good chance, so did the compressor (PAG), oil. That oil should have a tracer die in it (it does from the factory). So just stuffing more refridgerant in, with or without adding the proper amount pf PAG oil, WITHOUT fixing the system (I.E. replacing parts), it too will just leak out into the environment.

Yep, sealed systems should not need to be filled unless there is a leak. The Chrysler obviously had one. The Ford van shows wet at a fitting in a lower line underneath the side. I'll be watching that. Adding a bit of 134a and oil annually is cost effective. But if the leak increases, I will get help. Opening to repair means evacuating the system. Equipment I do not have is required.

In another life I was given some training via employment at a full service Shell station. Over 40 years ago, and I was never an expert. But I do know what not to do.

hello, hi, hey!!

Ok, there seems to be confusion here so I will be quick as possible

1) I never stated r12--no I stated 12a
the letter is one point of confusion

2)I dont just force refreg.. into system-- I stated the reason in the initial post

3) I NEVER mentioned high side-I asked for pressure on low side that you fill to

that's all folks!!

96 SSEi wrote: 1) I never stated r12--no I stated 12a
the letter is one point of confusion

Fair point. I wasn't aware of 12a

http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_refintro.html

RJolly87 wrote:

96 SSEi wrote: 1) I never stated r12--no I stated 12a
the letter is one point of confusion

Fair point. I wasn't aware of 12a

http://www.redtek.com/win_12a_refintro.html

Also new to me...
Must be a Canadian thing?