PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

You will need the following part number from GM: 15824379

Read more about the part here:
http://aurorah.proboards47.com/index.cg ... 668&page=2

Now we get to remove the fuel sending unit.

Start off by grabbing an energy drink and the items shown in the first picture.






Next we need to pull the Fuel pump relay. Its pointed out in this picture




Turn the engine over, it will run for a few seconds then die...




Next you want to remove the gas gap and fire the engine..it may sputter for a second then die....the fuel pressure is now relieved...if you dont believe me check the schrader valve on the fuel rail and check..it will be bone dry. This means there is no need to drain the fuel into a rag like the FSM says, it is already drained.


Locate access panel in trunk. Remove the 5 7MM bolts. Remove panel..make sure you shop vac the H*** out of the surrounding area or use compressed air..then wipe it down and make it sparkling clean.






Unplug the quick connects and power plugs for the fuel pump/sender. A little gas will come out of each line so have a shop towel ready.




Using the recommended tool or a screwdriver and hammer, tap the retaining plate holding the fuel sender to the pump...after several HARD taps it will come out. Once you get it out you will notice a lot of dust and dirt underneath it that you could not clean earlier..using DUCT TAPE..carefully life up the debris. DO NOT allow any debrix into the tank.








Carefully remove fuel sender from vehicle, you need to tilt it backwards to clear the float piece on the sender, make sure you have a lot of shop towels laid in the trunk to adsorb the 10oz or so of fuel thats going to fall out.



Next turn the sender upside down and dump the remaining gas into a container like the one in the first picture.



Here is what the sender looks like:






Remove the sender from the housing by pulling the white plastic clip out.




Tap the retainer out of the wiper that contains the 2 fingers the read the fuel level...note how the one on the left, the fingers are completely worn down. this is bad.



Reassemble.



Here is what the gauge says now

Well, did this today, however because of some differences in the GM replacement unit there might need to be some amendments to these steps... it now comes with a harness that you have to wire in... FUN!

dematka wrote:Well, did this today, however because of some differences in the GM replacement unit there might need to be some amendments to these steps... it now comes with a harness that you have to wire in... FUN!

I believe the only part from the repair kit is the blue sender wiper arm. It's removed by pressing out the brass hub.

The kit is actually meant for a Tahoe where the wiring needed upgrading or replacement, hence the cables and the entire replacement snapin for the wiper arm and contacts. The kit is several years old in application.

Great info....Did you use any type of ground strap? I dunno....but I'm a little leery of playing around in the trunk with an open fuel source that close.....I mean....they tell you to ALWAYS put your plastic fuel cans on the ground before refilling them......in case of a spark caused by the static on the can not having a path to ground due to the tires......

Just sayin.......

You can drop a lit cigarette in a pool of gas and it will extinguish itself-- It's the vapors you want to worry about. Use some common sense (don't rub your socks on the carpet), make sure there's adequate ventilation (i.e don't do this is a garage) and you should be fine.

When I did this to my wife's car I put in the new wiring too. Big mistake, the guage still doesn't work and I have to find time to go in and redo the wiring. One day I'll learn, just do as the directions tell you.

I'm glad this thread rose to the top, reminds me I have to get in and do this to mine.

The fact that the DIC still accurately records gallons used has made this a low priority, though people that ride with me often wonder how the car is able to fill itself up while driving.

Alright, I really wish I would've checked out this forum prior to buying an entirely new pump.

Here is the issue:

Pump completely replaced, fuel gauge still malfunctions. Starts off reading "Full" after starting, then just moments later drops to "Empty."

If any help would be offered, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

nice. mine gets like 95% empty and maxes out.. might have to add this to the todo list... PS hose, puck mount, Oil pan gasket, oil change and O2 sensor are going on next week. then this might be up to bat... not a major issue yet just annoying at times.

S

Does that brass hub need to get "greased" or anything when reinstalling it?

Gagger14 wrote:Does that brass hub need to get "greased" or anything when reinstalling it?

No -- just press it into the new sensor. I used a socket and a small C-clamp. Make sure you press it in all the way, but don't overdo it to the point that you might break something.

BTW; Hans also made a video version of this procedure that is on YouTube. I highly recommend it!

Ken_W

Hey guys, I just switched out my fuel sending unit "fingers" just like it showed and still seems like my fuel gauge is getting stuck in certain positions. And actually after further driving, I think my gauge is stuck at 1/2 tank. Doesn't seem to want to move from that position now. Besides the instrument cluster, is there something else that could cause the issue? Could the sensor where the "fingers" rub be to worn out? Would a new fuel pump make a difference? If I make another attempt at repairing it, I might solder my new sensor to the old wiring and see if that gets me anywhere. Please let me know what you guys think. I'm kinda stumped here and would really like to resolve the issue.

Thanks a ton for the help.

Thanks for your instructions! I had a little trouble getting the pump out of the tank but once I figured out I had to squeeze the plastic pump housing a bit to get it through the opening everything went smooth. No more wavy gas gauge!

So far I have also fixed all four leaky doors, sunroof, heated seat, power window motor, and rear speaker foam. I think I'm done. What else could go wrong? (I know, kiss of death)

This site is AWESOME!

Just did this as well. I bought this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/ ... 22900_0_0_

Plug and Play.
Works just fine.

Just did this process the other day and found that it was just plug and play into the pump. Gauge now works perfectly awesome for 22$. However now i popped a CEL code for an evap system leak. Is it possible that this is from where the fuel pump drops in? I would hate to have to bang that lock ring out again to check the gasket wasnt lined up poorly or something...

update, decided to pop in a new fuel filter while i was gonna have to relieve the fuel line pressure anyway and took a look at the gasket. Sure enough it got ripped when installing the lock ring. Replaced with a new one and greased it up so it would not move out of its groove. The CEL is gone .Gotta be careful seating that O-ring haha.

Hey, everyone. So, I'm trying to replace the fuel sender unit on my 2000 Bonneville, and I'm able to complete all the steps up until I remove the pump from the tank. For some reason, it just won't clear through the hole in the trunk, as if the hole is a fraction too small for it to come out. Is there any trick to removing the fuel pump through the trunk? Much appreciated!

gambit1138 wrote:Hey, everyone. So, I'm trying to replace the fuel sender unit on my 2000 Bonneville, and I'm able to complete all the steps up until I remove the pump from the tank. For some reason, it just won't clear through the hole in the trunk, as if the hole is a fraction too small for it to come out. Is there any trick to removing the fuel pump through the trunk? Much appreciated!

I had this problem too. All you have to do is squeeze the assembly just a bit and it will come right out. I really felt silly after struggling with it for so long.

I did this fix late last year. It really is a pain to get that part out because it seems a bit fragile. What I found as a solution was to keep working it out.

If you pull it out and can't get the second half out, don't push it back in like you pulled it out the "wrong way." Just keep wiggling it around until you find the right angle to pull it out.

Moreover, when you are putting the lock ring on back on, lube the gasket or else it is pretty sure to rip. Or just replace the gasket. I ripped mine up and had to replace it.

If you need more advice, here is a helpful video:

Part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-7cY_IPCVfI
Part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FST1whbcOk8

I hope you bought the cheaper part this guy recommends, that was what I did.

always remember they fuel guages in the cluster are known to wear out and this fix will not work... i put in a brand new OEM fuel pump and nothing changed. My gas guage is still giving bad readings all over the place. This is an either or kind of thing. You can't figure which is bad the sender or the guage until you replace one of them.