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i want to up the sound quality a little, but can't afford a nice deck (and dont want to lose steering wheel controls, and can't afford the extra expense of that iPac or whatever)

any experience installing aftermarket speakers with the stock deck? does it help much? if so, what brands would you recommend? i would assume just leave the tweeters alone right?

I did this when I first got my bonnie. I replaced the stock speakers with Memphis 6.5s and 6x9s leaving the stock tweeters. It sounded just slightly better. Not a huge difference, but worth my investment of ~$125. Now you might have the amped stock system so in that case I would expect a better improvement over stock. My experience has been that stock speakers are built for long life, not for sound quality. Aftermarkets can be easier to blow but sound better. The biggest difference was that I got a little more low end bass and obviously more treble. This because you now have six tweeeters in the car instead of four.

First, the problem with the stock deck is that it doesnt have a lot of CLEAN power. If you replace the speakers I would go with ones with low RMS power figures. That number is a loose guideline of the amount of power would make them sound decent. Even cheapo replacements would be an improvement.

Second, the tweeters. Mixing aftermarket speakers with stock tweeters might not be a great idea because the tweeters are a huge part of the way the system sounds, so it would be a waste to have the stock tweeters interfering with the ones built into the aftermarket speakers. I am not a fan of systems with a tons of speakers, stock or otherwise, so I may have a biased opinion. To me, the best sounding systems are often the simplest ones. But its all about personal taste. You said you want to keep the stock deck which is usually a weak point, but speakers will definately make a differance, so go for it. but I would either replace the tweeters, or disconnect them.

As far as brands, I have had good luck with infinity reference, and mtx speakers when running them off of deck power. The cheaper pioneers are good for low power applications, but they sacrifice sound quality for price and higher sensitivity (which makes them louder per amount of power applied, so good for stock decks)

i had references in my 95 and loved them. maybe i will go with those again. the (5.5?) inch door speakers were in there when i bought it, and had no tweeters, so the stock ones were left connected. i will disconnect the stock tweeters if i find some with tweeters built in.

so i was looking at infinity references with low watt ratings... there's a TON of them.

any specific model numbers?

I'm not quite done with this project, but...

Monday evening, I had my 05 GXP's factory speakers swapped out with Polk 6 1/2 (model EX365) and 6x9 (model DB690) - I left the factory tweeters, after having purchased some lovely Polk tweets (model db1000.)

The friend who was helping me install everything showed me how he could install the Polk tweeters in the factory spots, but not behind the factory grills, so I wasn't decided.

The jury is still out on this whole event (unlike the jury here in the Osteen/flight attendant case, which I predicted would only BE out for about two hours - I was off by twenty minutes.)

I didn't replace the factory amplifier.

IMPORTANT SAFETY TIPS if you're working with the 00- to 05 Bonnies

* the covering on the console pieces scratches VERY easily, and comes away from edges.
* the black plastic trim around the doors scratches VERY easily
* don't watch the whole process - just yell from afar "don't break or scratch anything"
* the speakers don't just drop into place; washers and other adjustments were required

I also had a Harmon/Kardon drive+play 1 installed. Believing the good words of other reviewers, I bought the wired FM modulator AND tried the XM direct auxiliary port wiring which our good fellows here had discovered.

Conclusions:

* the factory amplifier, just as stated above, does not produce enough clean power to do a decent job with even low powered non-factory speakers.
* just the speaker swap will improve fidelity beautifully
* you lose a LOT of bass this way, by keeping the factory amps and replacing the speakers
* wired FM modulators are a waste of time in densely populated (meaning, lots of FM stations) areas
* either my car is special, my installer didn't do it right, or the XM auxiliary port in produces enough alternator whine to remind me of the second non-factory stereo I ever installed in a 1974 VW Dasher
* the Drive+Play adapter is a great thing
* the best solution for iPod sound with the factory head unit remains the humble cassette adapter

Now, I'm considering a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 and real amplifiers and a subwoofer in the trunk which should kill the DIC compass for good. Either that, or I'm going to look at a Pioneer double DIN receiver/nav unit with an iPod port, etc. I have to figure out which is the most cost effective.

drdivo wrote: * wired FM modulators are a waste of time in densely populated (meaning, lots of FM stations) areas

What kind of adaptors are you referring to? Ive used wired fm direct adaptors for satellite radio and they are a beautiful thing as far as factory integration goes. Do you mean the kind they use for cd changers and such?

I replaced my rear 6x9's while I still had my stock deck and the factory BOSE amp couldn't power them so I didn't have any rear fill for a few months until I could install my aftermarket deck and amp. The speakers I used are Pioneer TS-A6982R, they are a higher power so that's probably why the amp couldn't run them. I think the factory amp only puts out 10-20 watts (or so I've read on here). The reason Bose speakers work at that power is because they are all 2 ohm speakers, which makes them take less power to work, while many aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm.

What do you mean by 'the amp couldnt power them" ? They literally wouldnt turn on, or just didnt sound good? Also an important thing to note is that lower ohm speakers do not require less power. They require less VOLTAGE to produce a given wattage, at the expense of increased CURRENT. If anything the BOSE amp would sound better (but not as loud) because a higher ohm rating puts less strain on the amplifier driving it, therefor giving you better driver control and less heat buildup in the amp and speaker.

phoenix_flame220 wrote:What do you mean by 'the amp couldnt power them" ? They literally wouldnt turn on, or just didnt sound good? Also an important thing to note is that lower ohm speakers do not require less power. They require less VOLTAGE to produce a given wattage, at the expense of increased CURRENT. If anything the BOSE amp would sound better (but not as loud) because a higher ohm rating puts less strain on the amplifier driving it, therefor giving you better driver control and less heat buildup in the amp and speaker.

There was little to no sound coming out of them even when i turned the stereo all the way up and shifted the balance to the rear. But they are a higher RMS speaker (power range: 2-80 watts RMS (440 watts peak power)) so that should be expected. But they work fine now.

thats not a very high rating. it should have driven those fine.

you must have hooked up the wrong wires because even a completely incompatable ohm rating wouldnt cause that. Either way good that it works now.

what do you think of these?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_927 ... 9622i.html

http://www.etronics.com/p-14001-infinit ... GoogleBase

bad to mix kappa and reference?

drdivo wrote: Now, I'm considering a Rockford Fosgate 3sixty.2 and real amplifiers and a subwoofer in the trunk which should kill the DIC compass for good. Either that, or I'm going to look at a Pioneer double DIN receiver/nav unit with an iPod port, etc. I have to figure out which is the most cost effective.

I'm actually going to be installing the 3sixty.1 in my car next weekend I believe. I will let you know how it all works out and how I like it. I really think that it's the best option for people with 00+ Bonnevilles that still want a better audio system. The stock radio unit is just not worth messing with in my opinion.

As far as the compass goes, I'm trying to figure out if I can move it like some people did in the older Bonnevilles.

bonnevillain wrote:what do you think of these?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_927 ... 9622i.html

http://www.etronics.com/p-14001-infinit ... GoogleBase

bad to mix kappa and reference?

That's the exact same speaker setup I have for the 94 SSEi, except I have the 3-way 6x9 speakers, the 9623i set. It's awesome! Granted, I haven't spent much time with the 94 put together, but it's not at all bad to mix Kappa and Reference. I strongly recommend that setup. Those speakers work together beautifully and have nice, matching sound. That's my number one choice aside from some totally custom setup with rear tweeters, components in all four doors, and whatever else comes to mind.

I'm currently going from Reference 6x9 3-ways (6923i's) in back to Kappa 6x9 (693.7i's) 3-ways with a set of Perfect tweets mounted high in the C-pillar.
Up front I am going from the stock Bose speakers to Kappa 5.25" (52.7i's) components or Reference 6.5" (6010CS) components -not sure which one yet, but I have both sets.

I can say that with just the Reference 6x9 3-ways (6923i's) and the 94-99 7-band eq deck and Bose amp made it sound like there were two 8 inch subs in the trunk.
I also just **upgraded** to a Pioneer DEH-P7600MP deck and lost a lot of SQ as well as SPL. Yes, a good 4 or 5 channel amp is next on my list as well as installing the Infinity Perfect 12" DVQ sub along with the Orion cheater amp I used to power my old DVC 12" reference with.

Based on reading previous topics and research I've done based on these forums...

Can you guys inform me if this is viable or even possible setup what I have in mind(forgive me complete audio novice)

Keep Factory HU, Tweets, Front Doors, Rear Doors, and Factory Amplifier.

Incoming crappy diagram....
-----------------------------------------------------------> Amplifier #1 > Powers 2 x 12" subwoofers
Factory HU > Sound Processor JL Audio CL441dsp >
-----------------------------------------------------------> Amplifier #2 > Powers 6x9 in Rear Deck

Factory Amplifier powers remaining speakers, I am trying to keep everything intact without murdering the compass or DIC as previously mentioned over and over.

Phyrestorm wrote:Based on reading previous topics and research I've done based on these forums...

Can you guys inform me if this is viable or even possible setup what I have in mind(forgive me complete audio novice)

Keep Factory HU, Tweets, Front Doors, Rear Doors, and Factory Amplifier.

Incoming crappy diagram....
-----------------------------------------------------------> Amplifier #1 > Powers 2 x 12" subwoofers
Factory HU > Sound Processor JL Audio CL441dsp >
-----------------------------------------------------------> Amplifier #2 > Powers 6x9 in Rear Deck

Factory Amplifier powers remaining speakers, I am trying to keep everything intact without murdering the compass or DIC as previously mentioned over and over.

I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work.

Awesome, just wanted to run it by, thanks. All Infinity Kappa here I come

phoenix_flame220 wrote:

drdivo wrote: * wired FM modulators are a waste of time in densely populated (meaning, lots of FM stations) areas

What kind of adaptors are you referring to? Ive used wired fm direct adaptors for satellite radio and they are a beautiful thing as far as factory integration goes. Do you mean the kind they use for cd changers and such?

I was using the wired FM modulator from Harmon Kardon. Every station that I tune to has a significant amount of background noise, which bleeds through into the music reproduction and then it sounds El Crappola (that's a technical term).