PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Is A mark 5 quality bolt safe enough for the puck mount?

Should be. Most that I've seen have been Grade 5. I used Grade 8's on the two I've made, but it's overkill. Only a couple more dollars, though.

Thanks Jake. My True Value quoted me for the five. I will look for the 8 jic.

L8tr

I bought the "mark 5" bolt and 3 wide washers for the upside and a smaller washer for the bottom side, as well as a bushing for the bottom side (bolt head side) as well as 2 lock nuts foe the top/

Got it all home and the bolt head says 3097A, no marks at all. So I need to go somewhere else for the 5 or hopefully the 8

You don't need any fancy bolt. The first time I made one I used threaded rod and it held up for years.

Mine stripped up. I am not sure what quality I put in the first time, but I went back and got what they sold me as a 5 yesterday and it wasn't. so I have to go back. I might of stripped it putting it on originally but I don't remember doing that all

That store didn't carry any Mark 5's or 8's in a 7" or 8" at all. I found a 5; 7" and the rest at The Ace in the next neighborhood over. The other thing wanted to post was that I put the original bolt threaded end up. Which I won't do this time. Thanks

I would put the threaded end on top. That way you don't have anything extra hanging down...

00Beast wrote:I would put the threaded end on top. That way you don't have anything extra hanging down...

Other than hanging down and being in the line of some object what difference does it make?

Not much.

the mid point of rotation would be the same in either configuration. And there would be differences in the physical forces effecting the integrity of da bolt. but IDK which way would keep the nut tighter on the thread.

I bought a new 5-7" bolt and washers and a cheap grommet along with a reg nut and a lock nut. If the old bolt comes out easily Ill have it done before work.

Thanks guys your great, no really

It's pulling on both ends of the bolt regardless. It's whether it's easier to install one way or the other, and I've found it's a lot easier to install bottom up, as well as keep maximum ground clearance.

I pulled the original bolt. It was actually fine. I thought it was stripped but what was happening was that my rubber bushing was worn and jamming the bolt from being removed. I replaced it with a shorter 7" (Mark V). The fit is tighter, more reliable (Nut, Lock Nut, Lock Tite) and the bushing is new and separated with washers.

Any way the ride is great. No vibrations, no thunking in and out of gears

I made the first solid mount for a 2000 SSEI back in 2001 and I put over 220k miles on it with just a grade 5 bolt. Just sold it last week, going to miss that car.

ROD

And considering your wife broke the Subframe driving that car, I wouldn't be too worried, lol.

Thinking about doings this mod but worried might be to stiff. Feel the need after shift kit, get rid of the rubber band effect. Was wondering if just a new better after market mount be good, if there are any.

XCBULLET, I have a knack for confounding simple things, which this mount is. Review some threads here about it. It's straightforward and I like the added quickness if I'm not imagining it.

It's not too stiff. Just make sure you get a good bushing under the head of the bolt on the subframe.

and put washers on either side!!