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So my sister just purchased a 2003 SE. All was fine, she drove it from Kennewick, WA over the mountains to Seattle. Drove it up and down the I-5 corridor, Heads home yesterday and just as she's rounding the bend at the summit it begins to lose power. She steps on the gas...still losing...she hits the exit makes it about 200 yards and it gives up the ghost. No SES light, No external leaks. Just got an oil change before she took off. I drove it while she was at my house and gave it a once over and it looked great. It starts but because of the noise it's making I had it towed back to my house. Here's a vid of what it sounds like http://youtu.be/YosSenhUUlw When I got to her it sounded worse. There was even a little squealing and the engine gave a slight buck every now and again. The rpm's would get high then low. It does take longer than normal to turn over. It was late so I didnt get a chance to take a look at the oil or the antifreeze. As always ladies and gents any and all help is appreciated.

Check the oil and look for any signs of coolant in it or glitter. Definitely sounds like a little upper end clatter there, hard to tell for sure with just at idle though if it would be a rod knock or not.

Can't get a sense of direction from the audio. Listening through a large screwdriver or cut off broom handle, at various non moving parts, would help locating.

It was getting dark and hailing when I looked but it appears the oil was a little glittery. Does that mean the engine's shot? There are a couple series II's at the local junker that just arrived within the last couple weeks. I can get one for less than $200, thats with the core deposit. Or should I rebuild the one I have?

Getting a good used one is the better option.

A used motor would be less work in the long run and should be fine for a long time if it's been taken care of.

Any major things I need to be aware of when attempting this swap? Potential PITA's? In order to seperate the engine from the transmission, is there just the bolts in the flywheel? Whats the best way to remove those?

for bolts that connects engine to transmission, there is 6 bolts that are 18mm sockets, there are 5 that you can see but the 6th is the PITA!!
in order to get the 6th is you have to take off passenger tire and have about 4'ft - 5'ft of extension.
the bolt is between the engine and transmission.

When you are putting the new engine in you can leave the 6th bolt out as long as you have the rest tightened up.
hope this helps

the best way to remove the flywheel bolts is to remove the starter and have a flat head screwdriver to use to turn the flywheel and i believe the bolts are a 15mm or 18mm and use a wrench to loosen with the screw driver used as a wedge to stop the flywheel from turning as you take the bolts off.

hope everything works smooth.

Just for the sake of knowing, what would the cost be to fix the current engine? The oil came back dark gray and slightly metallic?

WOW!! i just listened to the youtube vid and your motors pooched!
especially if you found your oil metallic looking.

you are better off getting another motor instead of trying to repair a money pit motor thats going to run you into the thousands and will most likely just pop again.

sorry for the bad news,

Will any Series II swap in or am I looking for a 2000+?

any series 2 motor will work. only changes you will make is swapping the mounts.

One more thing, Can anyone explain to me, mechanically, what went wrong?

a heavy foot and low maintenance. thats my guess, how is the motor hunting working?

So I'm pulling the motor now and it seems to be stock to the tranny?? I could not find a 6th bolt either?? Help please!!!

OK, well there is a 6th bolt (Engine to transmission) and you wouldn't know it unless you saw it. You can't see it unless you remove the cross-pipe from the exaust. Lo and behold I found it, got it off and presto!! Dropping the other motor in today, say a prayer to the motor Gods all goes well.