PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Going to use a friends garage this weekend to put on new brakes/rotors, remove and replace a lug stem and nut.
While I have the garage I also plan on changing oil, (Castrol High Mileage GTX w/ K&N s Premium Wrench-Off HP-1001), friend ask if
I was going to get an Oil Filter Cover Gasket.
Also, changing the fuel filter. I received a 30.00 gift card for Auto Zone, so if I use it for fuel filter, I am limited to a Fram Filter or an AZ filter.

Questions:

1. Is the oil filter covered? If so should I get a new gasket? (haven't locate oil filter yet, I ain't laid down in the mud to find the oil filter and have not thought about locating it till ask about the gasket, then saw it offered at Auto Zone, never knew Bonneville oil filters were covered)


2. What Fuel Filter should I get that is good and not going to cause me more headaches? Should I pick one of the 2, since I got the gift card
and the brakes/rotors took such a nice bit out of my wallet, or go somewhere else and get one? If so, what?


Thanks in advance for any advice and/or recommendations,
Running Wolf

The filter is not covered, never heard of a filter cover gasket....on diesels but that's it.

The filter is on the passenger side, behind the engine, under the axle. You'll see it.

Fuel filter, I would just with not a fram one. Say off the shelf from napa or car quest, etc. Fuel filter is by the back driver wheel.

Oil filter covers are on engines with cartridge style filters, where it's a permanent housing that you remove the cover and just replace the element. Lots of European and very old cars have them. Our cars just have spin-on filters, the only gasket you need is the o-ring on the new one. Be sure to apply a bit of oil to the new gasket, and make sure the old one came off with the old filter!

Also, a Fram or AZ fuel filter should be fine, it's mostly their oil filters to avoid. How-to change it: http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 23215.html

He use to work at a garage that specialized in high performance and European cars, so that must be where that came from...

I almost lost an engine to the F word oil filters....never used their fuel filters and couldn't find any info or reviews for any fuel filters...

Going to try to print out the topic for changing the filter so I have it with me...
Ok, now, the fuel pump relay location, if I remember correctly for another post I can't find now is under the rear seat, driver side fuse box, first relay on the right?????

Just release pressure at the rail like I show in there, except it's towards the front of the engine. Be sure to be wearing glasses when you work on the filter, even when you release pressure it can still get fuel everywhere...

What a day! Started at 11am ended at 6pm. She fought and resisted every step of the way and didn't stop until the final few turns on the wrench! Will post pics later in different post...

Good news--Brakes/rotors done, Celine has had her FIRST brake job, EVER, oil changed, underbelly is in good shape, I have a pretty clear pic
as to direction to take on what is now turned into my first restore project....

Fair news--Calipers are going to have to be replace ASAP! (rated fair cuz I wanted to paint them anyway so, new=easier!

Bad news--Fuel filter didn't get changed!! EVERYTHING ORIGINAL!! Fuel Filter at current moment is fussed with rust at front side nut. Decided
hold off, have a new line ready to replace and/or just replace the line...leaning to replacing it and be done... The tie rod end that
was replaced in the spring of 2012 by former owner has no grease fitting....

Question--1. Will I be able to find an OE replacement line or have to fabricate one? If fabricate what all will I need?
2. Any idea why there was no pressure or gas at the rail? Possibly pressure dropped from sitting a few before we started on that
project?

-Running Wolf

Helpful hint to removing fuel filter. Disconnect quick connect from fuel filter. Hold nut in place on fuel line with wrench. Turn fuel filter with wrench while not allowing fuel line to turn/bend or twist. Soak nuts with penetrating oil prior to attempting removal.

[quote="reb"]Helpful hint to removing fuel filter. Disconnect quick connect from fuel filter. Hold nut in place on fuel line with wrench. Turn fuel filter with wrench while not allowing fuel line to turn/bend or twist. Soak nuts with penetrating oil prior to attempting removal.[/quotei

Thanks for the tip! "Holding nut in place" --there is nothing resembling a nut(s) at the current moment, it's one fused, round, clump of rust. Need some supper duty penetrating oil, then it shooting in the dark for IF the penetrating will even be able to do the job. Although no pics of it, I have another pic of a not "as bad", situation I will post when I get the pics down loaded.

Did a bit of research, 3am in so much pain I couldn't see straight, found one type, forgot the name, it freezes the rust causing micro cracks for the oil to penetrate.

-Running Wolf

Edited to add this pic. Sorry no pic of the mess at fuel filter, was 'maintaining' my frustrations. I used not "as bad" as you can still tell there is a nut here. Although the threads are buried or....

I pretty sure that fuel line is no longer available. And even if it were, your best bet for a quick safe fix is to do a repair. Get one of the auto parts store "HELP" section fuel line repair kits. Cut off bad section of fuel line. Bend the line at filter end to match the old one and splice together to old line with fittings that should be in the.kit

Could I get a aluminum fuel line, size ?? and replace from the filter to the rack?

Since I got do it anyway and not fond of slicing, if I have to get by for a bit, so be it, but, I could get colored line to at least give the 'want to do' list a bit of attention at the same time...??

Is there a fuel line diagram anywhere or good pics from front to rear?

Any input about what direction to go is greatly valued!
Getting my priority repair, needs replace, should be replace, and want to do list in order has my head spinning. lol

You can likely find that line in a salvage yard.

00Beast wrote:Oil filter covers are on engines with cartridge style filters, where it's a permanent housing that you remove the cover and just replace the element. Lots of European and very old cars have them. Our cars just have spin-on filters, the only gasket you need is the o-ring on the new one. Be sure to apply a bit of oil to the new gasket, and make sure the old one came off with the old filter!

sorta off subject - GM's DOHC VVT 3.6L V6 has a cartridge oil filter, which I hate! depending on the vehicle, some you can get to from on top, others, underneath. - BC

I think you might be able to get that rusty nut loose, despite how bad it looks. It might be worth taking it to a shop, however. Heat will likely be required (as in a torch) and a lot of patience. A shop will have the right equipment and the skill in using it. You'd be amazed what a pro can do.

The reason I know this is because I just had this done on my son's 1999 Grand Am. I was fully prepared to replace a section of fuel line due to the rusty nut, but they were able to get it off and replace the fuel filter.

If you don't have air tools, don't attempt that axle nut. Gonna need a lot of heat, wire brush time, penetrant and a BIG Impact Gun.

00Beast wrote:If you don't have air tools, don't attempt that axle nut. Gonna need a lot of heat, wire brush time, penetrant and a BIG Impact Gun.

Those axle nuts are going to be a bear that will be tackled in the spring. I have already been warned to plan on replacing. I use to work in a garage that restored old Ford 8N, 9N, and Jubilee's doing clean up, tear down, part and body prep for repair n painting and I dont recall ever running up against anything this bad! I am not convinced it will be able to be removed in a normal manor, maybe a cutting torch.
Leave it to Michigan winters!