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So its time to replace the cv axle and seal on the passenger side and i have a GM manual for the car. It says i need 2 special tools (j-34115 seal installer) (J-37292 Tear-away axle seal protecter). Now i read on the forum you dont need the (tear away seal protecter tool), but how difficult is it to free hand it or should i get the tool?

I just use a socket that is a little smaller then the seal and tap the end of the socket with a mallet. Make sure it goes in straight or you will ruin the seal.

No special tools needed. They make it easier, but as stated a socket and careful hand serve just as well. I use one that is the same size as the flange on the seal. If you have a second set of hands, you can put a long extension on it and have the second person hold it straight while you work it on.

Goodfellow wrote:So its time to replace the cv axle and seal on the passenger side and i have a GM manual for the car. It says i need 2 special tools (j-34115 seal installer) (J-37292 Tear-away axle seal protecter). Now i read on the forum you dont need the (tear away seal protecter tool), but how difficult is it to free hand it or should i get the tool?

Concur with the other responses here on installation, but you also need to think about removing the old axle. When I did my '99, I rented a tool at Autozone to remove it. It's a long slide hammer with a special end (about the size of a saucer) that fits behind the axle at the trans case and pulls it with just a few taps.

Also, make sure you have a good T55 socket to loosen the hub bolts, and shoot them with PB blaster and wait 15 minutes or so before attempting to remove them. Also, the hub only installs in one position. Make sure the notch that allows the ABS wire to pass up to the connector is up towards the rear so you don't pinch it.

Less than an hour with the right tools. Good luck.

Bob Dillon wrote:Concur with the other responses here on installation, but you also need to think about removing the old axle. When I did my '99, I rented a tool at Autozone to remove it. It's a long slide hammer with a special end (about the size of a saucer) that fits behind the axle at the trans case and pulls it with just a few taps.

A prybar works just as good to pop them out.

This may be a dumb question as I have replaced axles multiple times.

1st time: just removed lower ball joint and tie rod and everything and pryed strut outward enough to get axle out, this was a real pain

2nd time: Just disconnected the bolt where strut attaches to knuckle this was quite simple because I had use of air tools. (Normally would need an alignment after doing it this way but somehow ended up putting it back together perfectly)

3rd time: Just ended up removing wheel bearing (It was sort of loose so replaced it anyway but it came off in about 5 pieces). This way is ok IF it is not too rusted, BUT I am afraid of damaging a good wheel bearing, if only axle needs replacement and not wheel bearing.....


BTW: Never needed special tool, 3rd time I did use a slide hammer from autozone to remove wheel bearing, that may have been what damaged it but don't really know another way to get it off when they are rusted on....


Any thoughts?

harofreak00 wrote:

Bob Dillon wrote:Concur with the other responses here on installation, but you also need to think about removing the old axle. When I did my '99, I rented a tool at Autozone to remove it. It's a long slide hammer with a special end (about the size of a saucer) that fits behind the axle at the trans case and pulls it with just a few taps.

A prybar works just as good to pop them out.

The dealio at Autozone was you buy the tools, and if you bring them back, they refund your money. This was my daily driver, and I was afraid to use a pinch bar for fear of cracking the trans case.

But good to know for next time, which I hope is never.

Thanks for the feedback guys, gonna do the pry bar on the seal and remove the strut bolts to get the cv axle off. See ya on the other side!

Goodfellow wrote:Thanks for the feedback guys, gonna do the pry bar on the seal and remove the strut bolts to get the cv axle off. See ya on the other side!

You do not need to remove the strut bolts, and if you do, you'll likely need a wheel alignment when you're done.

so i reached a hitch, the seal is being very stubborn and refuses to budge.
The seems to be a aluminum cap with 6 small holes round it. Here is a pic

I use a chisel to get the old seal out.

The seal has a steel backing to it, the little 'cap' you mention, and is pressed in. I think they make a slide hammer type seal extractor, but a chisel at the ridge along the edge will lift it out as well. I've also (in frustration) used a screwdriver to deform and pry the old seal out. As long as you don't damage the transmission all is well. Refer to the new replacement seal to see how it's constructed.

Thanks for the quick response i am in a tight spot right now. At my friends house and its 11:30 here and parents are getting antsy. I try what you suggested

I cant get the cap off, i have no doubt i can get the seal out once the cap is off. I dont have replacment cap and i am trying not to damage the one i ve got or are you suppose to replace it?

finally got the cap off some water had gotten in between the cap and seal and a small amount off rust formed. we found this out when i sprayed it with wd40 with a cloth in the axle hole and i came right out. The seal must not of been that bad if trannsmission fluid had not saturated the seal. Which would make a lot easier to remove.

Now the parts dont match up. Here is the part # GM8679744; got the part from Rockauto.

The metal thing is the backing for the seal - the new one should have that backing on it. It should have been press-fit, and not just slid out. Glad to see you got it though.

Edit: you got the driver side seal there, you will need the passenger side one. SKF Part # 13750 for the 4t60 or National Part # 3543 for the 4t65

There was way to know that, there were two seals rockauto sold and in the description of the other one was the word "left". So i thought it was the seal for the left side and the the pictures they gave the seals look the same, aside from a different color. could i have the part number of the correct

Ive got the 4T65 tranny. I have it all worked out; getting the part from autozone at 9am then the car should be done (Ready to die another day). Thanks for all your help

You need the 'right', there are three available. If you have the 4t65 trans then Timken or National. If you have a 4t60 then SKF. The 4t65 main electrical connector on the drivers side points into the fender and the 4t60 to the radiator IIRC

You should be able to get it from autozone, a trans shop, and yes the dealer.

Edit:
Autozone has the Timken 3543 listed.