PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Ok. So I've got some rust spots of the dogleg and rockers of the 96 we just got. Also holes in the wheel wells.

Also, the rockers on my 97 are rotting was thinking of just doing por-15 on the rust and then maybe a tad of bondo and just sort of smooth the plastic rocker moulding right into the metal of the car to hide the rust.

I already have Jb weld (and a gallon of bondo). I am planning to just cut up some old license plates and use the jb weld to fix the holes in the trunk.

But was hoping to do some por-15 on the rust to stop it first.

I'm not sure what I need or what to order.

Here's there website:
http://www.por15.com/


Any thoughts/experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

This will do ya.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/POI-1QB/


I've done a ton with this stuff, I actually bought a gallon. Not happy wallet time but it's a great product. over a year later underneath the T/A and it's still like I just did it yesterday. Just be sure to prep VERY well. I used non chlorinated brake parts cleaner. Also, be VERY careful working with this stuff, use a turkey baster to transfer it from the can to a cup or something to brush from. You will destroy the can by sealing it shut if you get any POR-15 in the rim. Also, from experience. Don't get this stuff in your hair...

So can I just buy it and apply it.

Or would I need the special primer or rust etcher or any of that crap?

You could use their products to prep it if you like, I didn't because the metal I was painting was simply greasy, not rust. Hence the parts cleaner. You could, I imagine, use some rust dissolver and clean the metal with non chlorinated brake parts cleaner and get the same results. It's up to you.

After all, POR stands for paint over rust. As long as it's not flaky I would imagine you could even just clean it up with a wire brush and go at it.

I've never dealt with this stuff. Does it turn to cement rock when it dries?


Or is this something that I would be able to sand and possibly do some primer and paint (maybe a little bondo too)

Or is this stuff something you put on and leave it as it is?

Por 15 stays pretty squishy. I don't think it is going to work for what you are wanting to do.

This stuff sounds more like an undercoating/rust stopper to be used in places that aren't seen?

That's what I'm getting from looking into it more.


Anybody know of anything good that I can cover the rust with and then paint over the top. I've tried some of the krylon and 3M rust inhibitors and the rust eats right through them within 6 months to a year.

Even tried undercoating and it all rots/falls off within the same time span.

Bed liner.

I did my GN with the por 15, its a bit of prep work to get this stuff to last and look perfect. Just like anything do with paint its all about the prep. I used the por 15 metal prep, and etcher. This was all down after I knocked off any surface rust, there wasnt much but it has to be done right.

As for using this and painting over top its do able but I think the results your wanting wont happen.

Anything with serious rust, you should cut out and have replaced, painting over it just buys you some time. Its still going to spread.

Just a thought, this por 15 stuff is really good and I have only seen brake fluid take it off. Be sure to wear gloves, I made that mistake and didnt realize I had client meetings the next day not cool lol

It hasn't stayed "squishy" in my experience. It usually gets rock hard. I got some on a hood hinge bolt on my brother's GTA and the bolt wouldn't back out, had to break the bolt to remove it. He said the same happened with the lower control arm bolts in the rear when he did that part. It will only stay as squishy as the rust underneath it. Prep it well my friend.

Also, if what you're painting will be exposed to UV light (sun) it's recommended to put a topcoat over the POR15.

Are the rockers on theses replaceable? I would just get new ones and do it properly instead of f-in around with all the different products you are trying to use. Fresh metal, proper welding and some paint will look MUCH better and are pretty cheap.

SSEiMan01 wrote:It hasn't stayed "squishy" in my experience. It usually gets rock hard. I got some on a hood hinge bolt on my brother's GTA and the bolt wouldn't back out, had to break the bolt to remove it. He said the same happened with the lower control arm bolts in the rear when he did that part. It will only stay as squishy as the rust underneath it. Prep it well my friend.

Also, if what you're painting will be exposed to UV light (sun) it's recommended to put a topcoat over the POR15.

This is what I have experienced as well.

It cures rock-hard. And, stuff will stick to it with a little scuffing. I glued new rockers onto my old LeSabre after coating with POR-15. I only regret I'd have used more in structural areas, or the car would likely still be around.

It's nice, but only works as well as you prep. Scrape off any obvious scale/flaking, degrease, and slop it on. Be sure to cover all you want to cover in 1 coat, as after it sets up it does not accept more as a topcoat. Their topcoat will likely do fine, though.

New rockers are expensive. Junkyard wants $150 a side. The cars runs and drives amazingly well.

But I was just hoping to sort of band-aid the rust and make the car last a few more years. The rockers are pretty much completely gone except for the upper lip where the bottom of the door.

I was hoping to stop the rust before it eats through that upper lip (door sill).


Plus I have the plastic rocker mouldings so the rotten rockers are hardly noticeable. Aside from the discoloring on the rocker just above the plastic moulding.

Whoa - the rockers are all that's rusty? And you're worried that the car will only last a few more years? You should see my truck...

It sound's like a lot of work, but welding in new metal (especially if it's hidden under a trim piece because you don't have to make it pretty) is the best way to go. Rockers are usually 0.7mm thick sheet, sometimes thinner. A rocker can get away with tacking in the new metal every inch or so, then sealing the seam with bondo or whatever. Just don't forget to paint the backside of the new metal.

Wash once a month at the carwash (full underbody wash) in the summer, and weekly in the winter. If you catch rust starting anywhere on the underbody; scrape or wire wheel it off and hit it with some rustoleum. If it doesn't spread further, POR or undercoat it. That's how I kept my '86 clean underneath.

This is the Web site I used when the rocker skins on my old LeSabre were replaced:

http://www.fixmyrust.com/1992-1999-lesa ... 8103R.html

The parts fit without many issues. Be sure to coat them well, as they rust pretty quickly when exposed to the salt.

If the rockers are gone, check the subframe mounts and the rear unibody near the rear jack points. When those are gone, the car's basically got the integrity of a tin can.

LeSabre in Buffalo wrote:This is the Web site I used when the rocker skins on my old LeSabre were replaced:

http://www.fixmyrust.com/1992-1999-lesa ... 8103R.html

The parts fit without many issues. Be sure to coat them well, as they rust pretty quickly when exposed to the salt.

If the rockers are gone, check the subframe mounts and the rear unibody near the rear jack points. When those are gone, the car's basically got the integrity of a tin can.

Didn't you have a whole thread about replacing the rockers on your old lesabre?

My bonneville looks ok on the underside. The rockers are really bad and there was a good size hole in the wheel well that I patched with (a license plate, undercoating, bondo and expanding foam). Was inexperienced then lol

My rear doors are also rusting pretty bad. Was thinking of trying to snag some new doors but not sure if I want to go through the trouble of swapping them. (So I've just been letting them rust away)

It all depends on how long you wanna keep the car. If you love it and want to keep it, do it properly now.

Yeah, that's my thread.

I got another 30k miles out of the LeSabre after replacing the rockers. Not too bad, IMO.

Yeah but I think you put on way more miles than I do. The last 3 years I have put on 27,000 miles. I think I'm on track for somewhere between 12,000-14,000 within the next year.


I'm going to have to seriously look into repairing some of this rust. It's not as expensive as I thought it would be and it doesn't have to look great, just has to hold the car together