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My wife was driving to pick me up from work, when the car just died mid-drive. She was able to get it pushed off the road, but it will not start. Starter turns the motor all day long, and all accessories still function great.

Why I think it's the fuel pump:
1. Fuel pump relay and fuse seem fine. I hear a nice clicking from the relay with the seat and fuse box cover off.
2. I do not hear the sound of the fuel pump when I the key to the first position. I've tried listening from the driver's seat, behind the car, and in the trunk with the access panel off.
3. The gas gauge just recently started going wacky. (Don't worry, I've only driven 80 miles on a new tank, so if I'm out of gas, I'm in a HEAP of trouble . . . more than a fuel pump I suppose. Besides, it was showing 0 gas at a quarter tank when it was wacky, and shows a half tank now. I think I have gas.)
4. I've got no pressure at the valve (I don't know how to spell . . . schrader?) at all.
5. I may have gotten a junk yard pump in there when I bought the car, because the access panel is just sitting there, screws missing.
6. I'm not sure if it's relevant, but I've been getting 10-11 MPG in town recently. Maybe that's the gas gauge's fault. New copper plugs, Napa Belden wires a couple months ago.

Why I'm a little skeptical:
1. I've had "check gas cap" appear for going on 5 years now. I really hope something with the evap system hasn't been stressing that pump out, or something. Maybe a new fuel pump with a new gasket will solve this problem? Wishful thinking?
2. My last fuel filter change was . . . I think about 2 or 3 years ago? I'm really not sure if that's too long. I can't find out how to change that myself, either, so any help there would be great. I'm going to do it with the new pump, but don't know how.
3. I'm a real novice, and have made several stupid assumptions, costing me a bit of money trying to fix problems, before I find out the real problems.

So, if a new fuel pump assembly seems like the right choice, please help me feel better about myself and tell me. If I'm clearly missing something, please correct me before I spend a bunch of cash.

Sounds like you've gone through all the right diagnostic steps and come to the proper conclusion, that I agree with. No pressure at the rail = fuel pump.

You can either get this: http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-FG0161-Ele ... &carId=001

Or buy the pump itself separate and do the gas gauge fix too. Depends on what you feel like spending/doing.

I was going to get the whole assembly for speed purposes. I have some related towing damage issues to work out ASAP at a body shop--but that's a whole other ugly story to add to this one . . .

The one you've shown, that's actual OEM, right? It's cheap too. Am I going to regret getting one from O'Reilly for $280 with a one year warrentee? I was going to go that route, because I can't wait for shipping . . . unless I'll really regret it later.

Yes the Delphi is OEM. Amazon's shipping is super fast, if you don't have Prime, sign up for the free month or whatever and get it shipped w/ free 2 day shipping. In the long run, this will be a much better deal than the O'Reilly's one. I haven't seen any issues with aftermarket fuel pumps in these cars, but I'd rather put in an OEM unit...

I was actually able to get it with one-day shipping for CHEAPER than the O'Reilly part. Thank you very much for your help! I really appreciate it!

One final question: I couldn't find a page that shows how to change the fuel filter. I thought it would be a good idea with a new pump and all, but is it completely necessary if I had it done 2 or 3 years ago? How's it done?

I sell fuel pumps for $50 + shipping.

I got you covered on the filter: http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 45&t=23215

Lol thanks 00Beast, I totally missed the part that said it was the same for all 00+. I thought it was just GXP. Bless my heart.

Sorry Harofreak, I already ordered it.

Start soaking that locking ring down with some PB Blaster or similar rust cutter.

Seems weve had a couple problems with people getting the rings to turn. Check yours out and see how it looks before you go to install the pump and are surprised with a rusty mess.

I'll do that.

And I would think PB Blaster would work for the fuel filter too, right?

Yes

I just changed my fuel pump. Took all of 30 minutes. I didn't have to worry about rust but the ring can be a PITA.

dpnewfie wrote:I just changed my fuel pump. Took all of 30 minutes. I didn't have to worry about rust but the ring can be a PITA.

Yours is also 5 years newer than his. I was pretty lucky when I did mine, a few good whacks and it started to move, but I did soak it for a few hours prior.

Also would suggest using a brass punch so you don't create any sparks.

01bonneSC wrote:

dpnewfie wrote:I just changed my fuel pump. Took all of 30 minutes. I didn't have to worry about rust but the ring can be a PITA.

Yours is also 5 years newer than his. I was pretty lucky when I did mine, a few good whacks and it started to move, but I did soak it for a few hours prior.

Also would suggest using a brass punch so you don't create any sparks.

And the fact that I live in Texas has little to do with it. lol The brass punch is a must.

Brass punch, eh? Call me stupid, because I've never even heard of this. I'm going to tackle this today, and I need to retrieve a new fuel filter, so I'll see if I can grab a brass punch, too. Oh ya, I need 5 7mm screws and clips because the idiot before me didn't put them back ...

Yeah, a brass punch won't spark on steel, so it should be used to punch the locking ring. Otherwise a small piece of very hard wood could be used, if you have that available.

Settled this up today, and I wanted to share my experiences to help the next fella:

Most importantly, be prepared to curse at that blasted locking ring. I started hitting it with a hammer via a back rail from a broken kitchen chair. I scooted it a bit, but I had to switch to my screwdriver when my punching implement was reduced to a splintery mess. No amount of PB Blaster would help that situation, and trust me, I'd know--I forgot half my times tables on account of the fumes I sucked in for 2 hours hotboxing in my trunk. The little arms don't circle around nicely with each application of force, they simply bend down to the surface of the tank. The area of the tank near those arms now looks like the surface of the moon from the fray, and the arms themselves have handy grooves all pounded in them. It was only when my neighbor came out to shut up my racket, and ended up pounding it off himself, that I was able to get that dang thing to obey. Whatever tool is made to do that job is probably worth the money.

Next, if you have a good way of emptying your tank before removing that assembly, do it. My tank was half empty (that's the kind of day it was . . . XD ) and the thing still came out like a Molotov Big Gulp.

Finally, if your kit also comes with crimping splices for a new chassis harness connector, please be aware that your wife/girlfriend/sister/dog's hairdryer is not an acceptable substitute for a heat gun. After failure with the hairdryer to shrink the insulation, and rather than risking my life with a lighter, I just tossed those connectors and soldered the wires, yes: in my trunk.

Took me five hours, and overall went better than I expected.

Thanks for the support, help, and and tips, friends!

FYI, the insulation on these conenctors is not meant to be a shrink wrap. Its merely an insulation.

The instructions that came with the assembly laid out the procedure for the new chassis harness connector, including using a heat gun to shrink the insulation on the included crimp splice things until a little bit of sealant comes out the ends, whatever that means.

All I know is that they felt really cheesy after I crimped the devil out of them, and the insulation taunted me and my hairdryer. I figured I better just solder the wires for good measure.