Hit a curb...positive camber. Suspension damage?

[RJGill84]

Hit a wet/icy spot going about 15-20mph and the left front tire hit a curb this weekend. My tires were pretty bad...in fact, I had an appointment today for new Uniroyal Tiger Paw Tourings. I was hoping I just knocked the alignment out, but the tire shop says that I bent the subframe slightly. They didn't really seem to know much, but felt like it could be straightened. I'm not sure I believe them 100%, as they admitted to not knowing much when it comes to suspension damage. I would be surprised if the tie rod, struts, knuckle, etc are OK but the impact was enough to damage the subframe.

I'm taking it to a body shop tomorrow. The readings from the alignment machine are as follows:

left front: camber: 0.9
caster: 3.9
toe 2.0

right front: camber: -0.4
caster: 5.5
toe: 1.94

All three measurements on the left front tire are bad, however the camber and caster on the right front is within spec. Any thoughts on what kind of damage I can expect other than the subframe, and potential costs?

[00Beast]

What do you have for insurance? I'd get an estimate and turn it into your insurance if it's above your deductible, as straightening frames gets expensive. I wouldn't be surprised if you bent something in the rack, too. Could have a broken or cracked control arm, bent strut, kinked strut tower, etc as well.

[01bonneSC]

You bent pieces before you bent the actual frame.

[RJolly87]

If anything i would say you bent the a arm down and back.

[bonnevillain]

I would be surprised if the tie rod, struts, knuckle, etc are OK but the impact was enough to damage the subframe.

I would be too

All three measurements on the left front tire are bad, however the camber and caster on the right front is within spec. Any thoughts on what kind of damage I can expect other than the subframe, and potential costs?

I bent a control arm hitting a curb at similar speeds in my 95, and I know others have as well.Fairly common, and not too expensive. But If i'm not mistaken, the control arm on the 2000+ models are aluminum so I doubt that would bend.

[00Beast]

I don't think it would bend, it would break.

[bonnevillain]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking.

[RJGill84]

Got an estimate from the body shop today. They want $691 to bend the subframe back and do a 4 wheel alignment.

I'm pretty sure I can get a subframe online for about $350 and have a shop install it, what would the labor be like on a job like that? Probably pretty high...

I still just don't buy the idea that the tie rod, control arm, hub, boot, strut/tower, and everything is OK, but the subframe is bent. Would ONLY a bent subframe throw off the camber, toe, and caster, or is it more likely that there is more extensive damage?

[harofreak00]

Have them show you the damage on the lift, and take a picture. Post it. I don't believe they are being straight up with you.

IF the subframe is bent, don't spend $350 for a new one, you should be able to get one from a yard for like $50. Labor will be intensive though.

[Jrs3800]

RJ have the car checked at another shop... Those specs don't look far enough off to me to not be able to align the car...

Camber is generally not adjustable on the newer bonnevilles, but there is a little room for adjustment..

Caster is not adjustable

Toe is adjustable...

But again, I don't think you are far enough off to indicate that anything is bent at all..

[Archon]

Which car is this?

[00Beast]

I'm assuming the Aurora. I don't think the bonne is in driving shape right now. That and the fact that it's in the N* section.

[Archon]

That's what I'm assuming too, but before I start spurting out specs and procedures, I want to make sure I'm giving accurate information based on the vehicle.

[RJGill84]

Yep - it's for the Aurora, sorry for the confusion. Took it to another shop and they are looking at it more closely Monday. They don't seem to think it's major at all, but say there may be some slight deformation at the control arm mounting point. The car drives fine, with the exception of a little bit of tire squeal and some semi-wonky steering feedback.

[Archon]

Then I agree that the specs aren't that far off, and should be able to be adjusted. That is as long as the sub-frame is structurally sound.

Camber: -0.2 to 0.75
Caster: 5.0 +/- 0.75
Total Toe: 0.2 +/- 0.2

Caster can be adjusted further by elongating the holes in the strut toward, to make slots. Camber can be done similarly by slotting the holes in the strut where it bolts to the knuckle. That's per GM procedures.

[RJGill84]

OK - got it on a rack today and had it inspected by a mechanic that I trust. There is definite visual deformation of the subframe at the control arm mounting point. I'll post some pics asap, but it's basically pushed in an inch or so at the mounting point. It doesn't seem to be structurally compromised - but there is no guarantee of that.

Visually, there seems to be zero damage to anything else - which is definitely shocking. The possibility is still there that there is some damage to the tie rod, strut, etc. We won't know for sure until one of the following is done;

Option 1: Correct alignment specs per the GM procedures outlined above by Archon.

Option 2: Replace subframe.

Option 3: Put subframe on frame rack (est. from body shop was $691.)

The mechanic recommends replacing the subframe.

[Jrs3800]

I would almost agree with the mechanic... You should be able to find a sub frame pretty cheap...

[Archon]

I agree. With visible damage to the subframe, why take the chance of it being structurally compromised. You could probably get it aligned to specs but that side still wouldn't be quite right.

[00Beast]

I agree with above. Anyone have any info as to if the Aurora subframe is the same as a Bonneville?

[harofreak00]

There are several salvage yards in Akron that have subframes for $200-250.

Looks like Aurora is compatible with LeSabre, Park Avenue, Bonneville, Seville and Deville.

Check car-part.com for engine cradle.