PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

I recently changed out my fuel filter, because it wouldn't even start anymore. Now, car starts and idles. My new problem is when I was changing the filter and battling the leaks, the car flagged the system too lean, random misfire, and P1133 dealer code fuel metering. Now the car idles unevenly like it has an oversized cam. It accelerates and does not skip or choke while driving, its only at idle. I cleared the codes to see if they would reappear, but they haven't come back. Have I fouled an o2 sensor or is there air in the lines, what?

Start by looking for vacuum leaks.

Wouldn't it get worse when you accelerate with those?

Not necessarily. Most vacuum leaks will be more noticeable at idle.

ok, ck it tonight. let ya know.

Tried driving it to the bank and back, ck eng lite came on. Went back to store, pulled codes, 2 system too lean codes. Still chking for vacuum leaks tonight. Any other ideas?

I second the vacuum leak theory. Have been there with my Bonny. Also, if you have enough of a vacuum leak, you'll get a code set for EGR insufficient flow, due to the way the PCM checks the EGR operation. Don't pull the EGR if you get that code, just look for vacuum leaks. Most of my issues have been on the rubber T or reducers that connect to the small, hard vacuum lines.

Did you do anything under the hood while doing the fuel filter? Brittle rubber is often able to seal until it gets bumped or moved and then it cracks and starts to leak.

GregB

Finally got to pop the hood last night. As soon as I lifted the hood I could hear it and then it only took a few seconds to find it.







I just used what I had at hand in the toolbox to make the initial fixes.






The more I moved this tooobing the more cracks I found. I got some new toooobing at Advance today and I'll replace the whole thing.

I replaced a lot of my vacuum tubing with the bulk tubing rolls you can buy at the parts store.

Andrew and I had to use a heat gun to expand a piece of smaller tubing to fit on that fitting on the TB when mine broke off. Dealer wants like $17 for it, and would have to order it. It hasn't bothered me enough to replace it.

I wonder which is better, or if it matters, I bought some rubber toooobing at Advance. I also have some left over metal fuel\brake line toooobing frm putting an new master cylinder on my son's accord a couple of years ago. I still have the bending tool for it, it would be more resilient than rubber, but maybe more of a pain to install. I would still have to use rubber on each end of the metal. Hmmmm..

I had to replace that same one last April; if anyone would like the Part Number for it is 24506665 -- How I know this is I just walked outside, raised the hood and looked.. since I left the sticker on it when I replaced it.. lol

GM PART # 24506665
PACK QTY: 1
CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $17.06
OUR PRICE: $8.87


From www.gmpartsdirect.com