PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Hello everybody,

Before diving under my dashboard, I wanted to see what you could think of my symptoms:

1) The car will not start (the starter does not even click)
2) I need to use the remote control / key to pop the trunk open (the button on the driver side door does not work any more)
3) Everything else seem to work fine (radio, AC, lights on the dash)
4) had a quick look at my fuses and they looked ok.

Of course the main issue is that I cannot start the mill.
We tried to jump-start the car, to make sure the battery was not too weak, but no luck.

I'll look at my cables, making sure nothing got loose tomorrow before I let my wife know she actually has to drive me to work.

Ah! And the mean thing is a 1995 SSEi.

Thanks for your reply.

Yes, I have tried to start in neutral, but no luck.

1 and 2 happened at the same time, this is why I have mentioned them both.
I am willing to accept a defective switch though…

Check the connections to the starter. Make sure they are clean and free of corrosion. If you have a volt meter, check for voltage on the small lead to the starter while someone turns the key. also check for 12 volts to the large lead without turning the key. This should be "hot" all the time. That will tell you if there is a starter problem or an electrical issue.

Main power ok.
Command does not come through.
Re-fastened the command line.

Do you have another ignition key to try? Is the security light coming on?

The security light goes off when i am on the contact position. Which seems normal.
Same issue with spare key

When you put the key in and turn it to the "on" position (not trying to start it), does the security light come on and go off after approx 5 seconds? If it does, then there is 1 of 3 things to look at, starter relay (at base of steering column), park neutral switch (on transmission) or wiring. This is taking in the account of not having 12 volts at the starter on the purple lead when the key is turned to the start position.

Yes, the light goes off a few seconds when left at the last position before the start position.

According to the FSM, that verifies it is not a vats issue. Locate the park neutral switch on the transmission. It will be on top of the transmission towards the firewall right where the gear selector cable attaches. Unplug the connector. On the harness side (NOT the switch side) check for more than 8 volts on pin G (yellow) to ground.

Forget what i just deleted. I need to go to work now and my sweet and tender half will drive me there. Ill look at the cable tonight.

Thanks for your patient instructions.

If you look at the top of the transmission, right below the brake master cylinder, there will be a black box with the gear selector connected to it.

This is from my 89 (95 is not here, but similar), The rod held on with the nut is the shift cable, Blelow it is the park neutral switch. In this case, the switch has a lead that runs up to the firewall. That is what you want to find

In the image, rubber boot is steering shaft, master cylinder is the blurr on lower right side of picture.


The connector going back to the harness is where you want to check the voltage on pin G (yellow) when trying to start the car.

Thank you again.
Depending on how work goes today, I may be able to take the day off tomorrow and finish the debug.

As Sandrock said, it is either going to be that switch on the transmission (park neutral switch) or the relay under the dash on the steering column.

Check the Valet switch thing be causing the button in the door not to work? I'm not sure where it's located, but have heard that can cause that issue. Find it, flip it the right way and tape it down.

I had similar no start issue but was intermitent.
I'm guessing that a 95 is the same as my 92.
With the car having tilt steering, the ignition switch itself (NOT the key cylinder) is located partway down the steering column and is linked to the key cylinder by a metal rod.
The switch is screwed to the column, but is adjustable. Apparently they can move out of adjustment over time.
I simply just had to loosen the two screws and slide the ignition switch slightly up the column, re-tighten the screws and TADA! Fixed.

Checked pin G: hot when key is on start position. So if I beleive the schematic I have, it must be around the park/ neutral position switch and my starter.
Which also mean that the starter enabler relay is ok (the one at the stearing column if i have understood correctly)

Yes, There should be a purple wire coming from the park / neutral switch. That is the same wire going to the starter solenoid. Check the continuity through that wire and if it is good, then mark one up for Sandrock.

Replace your park / neutral switch.

I have a hard time getting access to the other side of the purple cable, though.
I think I need to put it on stands to go from below.
I'll update the forum when I get it running again… or fail to do so.

Thank you for all your help.

You know....thinking about it now, I'm thinking park/neutral switch as well. That would explain why the trunk release stopped working at the same time. The car needs to be in park or neutral for the switch to work.