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The girlfriend just got a 93 Bonneville SE (yay) for $400 (sweet) that has a problem with the sway bar not being connected to the wheels. Normally, I'd just get new hardware and bolt it back on, but there is this odd...piece that hangs that my car doesn't have and I don't know what it is. It looks like it's supposed to be part of the sway bar but broke. The top image shows the passenger side and the bottom image shows the driver side.


That wierd metal part that is bolted with the sway bar that is hanging down off the sway bar. Looks like it broke off the sway bar...

Is it broke, can I weld it, do I need a new sway bar?

Can you get a picture of it off the swaybar?

I could...but it's cold out and i don't like working on cars outside in the cold unless absolutely neccessary. She isn't driving the car now (too unstable) so until it gets warmer out...but if I must then yeah, I can pull it and get some more photos.

That swaybar is broken. Don't weld it, it'l just move the stress point somewhere else. Think of the swaybar as a spring, and you never weld springs.

Thanks for the replies:

What are the rpo's for the different compatable sway bars? I'll be putting the biggest one I can find on it from the junkyard, and there is no guarentee this same sway bar can be found anyway.


edit: how the **** did the sway bar break like that on both sides
do I need any special tools to swap the sway bar?

That's part of the end of the stabilizer bar that has broken off. The stabilizer bar will need to be replaced, along with the stabilizer links. The arrow in the following picture shows how that part normally looks. You can see the seam where two pieces come together.

You can get the 32mm front swaybar from an SSEi or anything with the F41 or FE2 suspension. The FE1 had a 30mm bar I believe. Then Certain C-body caddys had a 34mm front swaybar that would work too but is hard to find.

I discourage upgrading the swaybar without also upgrading the springs to the higher spec. A handling imbalance can occur. The only 'partial' upgrade I'd suggest is upgrading only the rear swaybar to correct factory-induced understeer.

Sorry to go slightly off topic but what would be considered a "partial" upgrade to the rear sway bar??

Swapping in an SSE/i (FE3 or F41) rear swap would be a partial upgrade. And Addco makes a rear bar for us.

Good to know. Since I have an SSEi I guess I have the biggest bar already...lol. Thanks

There's things you can do just the same. Start a topic in Performance, and we'll talk you through it. Most of it is relatively easy and inexpensive.

londonontman wrote:Good to know. Since I have an SSEi I guess I have the biggest bar already...lol. Thanks

There is the Addco rear bar. There isn't much experience with it, so I don't know how much better it is than the SSEi bar.

J Wikoff wrote:

londonontman wrote:Good to know. Since I have an SSEi I guess I have the biggest bar already...lol. Thanks

There is the Addco rear bar. There isn't much experience with it, so I don't know how much better it is than the SSEi bar.

It doesnt just get rid of factory understeer it starts inducing oversteer. I wouldnt recommend it on an FE1 suspension at all. F41/FE2/FE3 Springs and front bar (32mm) with some poly endlinks I would say are the min. Theres other factors that can play into how much oversteer it will cause.

...so don't put the bigger sway bar in...and if I can't find the FE1 at the local junkyard then I have to pull the front springs to match the sway bar. If I have to do that though, wouldn't I have to get the struts as well? My experience is that the springs are easier to change if you leave them on the strut anyway.

I haven't looked yet, but the sway bar mounts aren't welded to the chassis?... I hope not.

No the mounts are bolted on....

Don, if it's that rusty the mounting bolts are practically welded on. I'd get some major hardware lined up to change those, such as an impact gun to drop the subframe when the bolt heads snap off. Also a drill with lots of bits to drill those bolts out, and a tap to re-thread the holes. PB Blaster and a cheater pipe won't do much good here.

That broken front sway bar looks like a hollow bar to me.

Make sure you find one that is solid.