PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Introduction:

Gasoline goes through many stages before it enters the fuel tank on your car, from the refinery to the truck that hauls it to the tank at your gas station. In those stages it can pick up contaminants, and those contaminants can damage your fuel system or even your engine unless they are caught before then. That’s what a fuel filter is for, catching those contaminants. However, a fuel filter is a consumable item, and has a capacity before it becomes a significant restriction in the system, which can cause the engine to run rough, due to a lack of fuel. The fuel filter is probably one of the most overlooked items on a car, yet one of the most important. By changing your fuel filter every 15 – 20,000 miles, you can extend the life of your engine, and prevent issues down the road. The following write-up will show you the basic steps in changing the fuel filter on a 2005 Pontiac Bonneville GXP, but this procedure applies to all 00+ Bonnevilles. 3800 V6 cars differ in the location of the bleeder valve on the rail.


Disclaimer: This article is for reference purposes only. Read all steps before attempting procedure, and post any questions in the appropriate section of this forum. Neither the author of this article nor Pontiac Bonneville Club are liable for damages or personal injury caused by misuse of tools or equipment.

• Tools/Supplies Needed:
  Needle Nose Pliers
  16 mm Line/Fitting Wrench
  20 mm Open-Ended Wrench
  Penetrating Lubricant
  Small Screwdriver (Used for releasing pressure at fuel rail)
  Purolator Part Number F54714 Fuel Filter (Or other)
  Safe Method of Lifting and Supporting Vehicle (Floor Jack and Jack-Stands, Car Ramps, Hydraulic Lift)
  Shop Rags/Towels
  Container to Catch Excess Fuel (Pail, Drain Pan, etc.)
  Safety Glasses/Goggles
  Rubber Gloves to protect hands (optional)

Step 1: Park the car in a way that it is able to be lifted and safely secured. Shut the engine off, open the hood.

Step 2: Remove plastic engine cover by pulling up on the front, and pulling towards the front of the car. Set to the side.

Step 3: Locate Pressure Release Valve on Fuel Rail, located on the left side towards the rear of the rail, and place rags underneath and around to catch fuel. See Figure 1.

Figure 1:



Step 4: With small screwdriver, push down on inside of valve. (See Figure 2) CAUTION: Fuel Spray may cause Eye Damage. Ensure eyes are protected with safety glasses or goggles.

Removing the fuel pump relay and turning over the engine for a few seconds will also allow the rail to de-pressurize. Make sure to depress the valve to ensure all residual pressure has been released in the rail.

Figure 2:


Step 5: Lift and support vehicle. A hydraulic lift was used in this manual, but a jack and stands or car ramps may be also used. (See Figure 3)
WARNING: An improperly supported vehicle can fall and cause personal injury, death, or damage to vehicle. Ensure all safety measures are used.

Figure 3:


Step 6: Locate fuel filter under rear driver door area. Spray the nut on the forward (towards front of car) end of the fuel filter with penetrating lubricant to ease removal. Let lubricant soak for a few minutes. (see Figure 4)

Figure 4:


Step 7: Using 20 mm open-ended and 16 mm open-ended and 16 mm fitting wrench, loosen nuts on forward end of fuel filter. (See Figure 5) Residual pressure may be in fuel filter. Ensure there is something to catch fuel, and that you are wearing proper eye protection.

Figure 5:


Step 8: Using needle-nose pliers, push in on the tabs on the plastic clip located at the rear of the filter, and pull out. (See Figure 6)

Figure 6:


Step 9: Take new filter, and ensuring plastic clip is on end, insert clip end into rear line (See Figure 7), and insert forward line into nut end. (See Figure 8)

Figure 7:


Figure 8:


Step 10: Using 20 mm and 16 mm wrenches again, tighten nut into filter. Tighten nut until wrenches stop turning easily.
WARNING: Over-tightening nuts can cause damage. Do not over-tighten.

Figure 9 shows how the new filter should look under car.

Figure 9:


Step 11: Lower car, turn ignition key to “On” position, and check on ground under filter for leaks (dripping fuel). If you removed the fuel pump relay, now is the time to replace that as well.

Enjoy a job well done, and the knowledge that the fuel going to your engine is clean.

nice job


I see some confusion over the wrenches. You list 2 wrenches needed in the tools list. In the text you say at 1 point you need 3 wrenches:

"Step 7:
Using 20 mm open-ended and 16 mm open-ended and 16 mm fitting wrench, loosen nuts on forward end of fuel filter. (See Figure 5)"

And then in Step 10:

"Step 10:
Using 20 mm and 17 mm wrenches again, tighten nut into filter. "

The 17mm wrench was never mentioned in the tools list and you said to use a 16mm to remove the same nut I think.

Otherwise good writeup. I like that there's only 1 step per step. Flows easier that way.

Oops, thanks. I used a 17 mm wrench, but it was too big. It uses a 16 mm fitting wrench.

Personally, Speaking from experience of working on cars, specifically GM cars, I prefer NOT to use the GM pressure relief system on the top of the engine unless absolutely necessary. I'd rather have the extra mess on the floor under the car when changing a simple filter, than on an engine, which may have a hidden hot part that could cause a flash fire unless you're absolutely sure the engine is fully cooled and has sat for a long time.

The only time I mess with that pressure relief system is when a fuel rail needs to be depressurized for injecter, regulator, or other rail maintenace.

Just personal preference, nothing right or wrong, just experience speaking.

The best way to bleed off pressure is with a guage and a hose to a container, for those that have a guage. My .02

Sweet write up my friend........ Looks like ill be doing this myself this summer!!!

I'd do it ASAP. The fuel filter on the GXP was an AC Delco, so I think it was the original. Lots of restriction from 57,000 miles of crap from your fuel. Have it done at your next oil change.

As the nut for the fuel filter will often be stuck to the fuel line, I like to spin the filter, instead of the nut. That way, the fuel line doesn't get twisted.

Archon wrote:As the nut for the fuel filter will often be stuck to the fuel line, I like to spin the filter, instead of the nut. That way, the fuel line doesn't get twisted.

That does make a lot of sense. Both of mine have come off easily with a shot of penetrating lube, but for cars with 100,000+ miles on the original filter it might be a different story.

Archon wrote:As the nut for the fuel filter will often be stuck to the fuel line, I like to spin the filter, instead of the nut. That way, the fuel line doesn't get twisted.

Yup, excellent advice, especially of the nuts are rusty, even with a penetrating oil/lube.

More good tips and great how to, Beast. Question about the GM pressure relief - CM, if you covered everything with rags and actually put a rag over the valve before sticking a screwdriver into it, wouldn't that contain any spray? I'm just thinking it would be better to release it standing up over it from a valve designed for the purpose than have it spraying out around the filter nut as you're loosening it up under the car. I'm thinking in terms of being on my back under the car as I don't have a lift. The task for me would include a creeper and jack stands or ramps, none of which I have...yet. Any recommendations or preferences re: jack stands or ramps?

I guess it's personal preference, but I would do jackstands, as they take up less space.

Even though you release pressure at the rail, there will be gas in the filter and lines. Just a part of it, so you need to be prepared.

Stands it is. Never really liked the idea of ramps anyway.

I'll be prepared for the residual fuel mess, I'd just rather not have it spraying out any more than is necessary. What kind of pressure are the fuel lines under?

I believe the rail pressure is ~45psi. Drain pressure at the rail and it will drip and pour out, not spray. Have some kind of container to catch the gas, and wear safety glasses. Glasses are cheaper than a trip to the doctor.

Great write up. Thanks!

New member here, so I'm late in reading the post. Thanks for the tips. I trust you got a good grade on the assignment?

Geezer wrote:New member here, so I'm late in reading the post. Thanks for the tips. I trust you got a good grade on the assignment?

That's quite alright. Glad it helped you out. Yeah, I got a 90% B on it, and an A in the class, so I think I did OK, lol.

00Beast wrote:I'd do it ASAP. The fuel filter on the GXP was an AC Delco, so I think it was the original. Lots of restriction from 57,000 miles of crap from your fuel. Have it done at your next oil change.

When does GM say to change the filter on that car? On some vehicles it's 30K miles and on others it's 50K miles. Me, I don't like to go more than 30K max.

The wrench sizes are 20 mm and 5/8 inch. The 5/8 being a flare wrench.

Safety glasses (preferably safety gogles) are a MUST, unless you enjoy the sensation of gasoline burning your eye balls out?

I think another important safety tip is........NEVER USE AN INCONDESANT BULB TROUBLE LIGHT WHEN WORKING WITH FUEL!!!!!! The bulb gets very hot and if cold fuel sprays or even drips on it, it can and most likely will explode!!!!! Lots of people start their cars on fire in this manner every year.

Nice write up, Beast.

5/8 = 15.8 mm, so a 16mm wrench is just a tiny bit loose on them, I have been using 16mm wrenches on our cars w/ no issues, but I'll try a 5/8" flare wrench next time and compare.