PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Well my SE never had a real good detail since I owned her (4years) I figured since work is slowing down I would be able to get her a good cleaning this summer so shes good for winter. From reading alot on here I figured my best bet is going to be for me to get the Porter Cable 7424 buffer. Now I must state first, I never detailed a car before I am the biggest noob when it comes to this. When I was my car I'm really picky but never have I polished, claybar, or wax.

Since I don't have a full week to be able to do this (unless I can do it somedays, then drive the car to work the one day and have it rest the other days) I will be wanting to try to get it done in 2-3days. Is this going be to less of a time?

I don't exactly even know what kind of polish,calybar, or wax to get so any advice on those products to point me in would be great. Since I am new to this I don't want to be spending the big bucks on them when this will be my first time and it will be a quick detail not a week long type job.

Now I know you need to first clean your car before you do anything. If I'm right, I'm suppose to use dish detergant this time so it removes and strips away any of the old wax/polish thats left? Correct me if I'm wrong. I also do know to do the 2 bucket rule, were one is full of the fresh water and the other is the soapy water.

Thats all I really know, so if someone can inform me on the steps from after the wash to what I do, and maybe if I should do everything by hand first before I use the Porter so I don't mess anyhting up. I do have a craftsman buffer that I can try first if you think.

what i do is use gold class shampoo, with a little dish wash mixed in....for a detailing wash

i use the two bucket method where yes you use one with soap one without, you use soap then ring it out in the fresh.... then soap again then ring out in the wash etc.

then i dry using a waffle leaf microfiber towel, got mine at advance for like $10....

then i would claybar, buy the mothers kit, it has 2 80g bars for $16 at advance

cut the bar's in half or thirds.... apply the detailer then, go back and forth across the paint.....check it for when it gets dirty.... re-knet (i dont know what it is) so that the surface you use is nice and clean on the clay

then i would buy meguiars gold class paste, i like using it as it's easy to apply and can be had at walmart for $10

thats what i have to say..... ryan (crash) or tom (95 sle) will chiem in as they are more skilled than I

Let's start off with how much you want to spend and I will get you what you need for the price

*removed becuase i don't know what i was saying*

To be honest I really don't know how much to spend, I just figured I should start off with maybe a really decent one that's affordable and I can get at any auto store before I start spending the big bucks into it.

If you're going to do it for your first time, you don't honestly need a buffer. You can do a lot of damage with a buffer if you're not aware of what you're doing. I'd wash, clay, and wax. Just doing that will make your car look 100% better.

Man you are up at the top of Jersey.

Without breaking the bank a decent wash then a claybar will do the trick. What color is your Bonneville? There are a few really decent waxes in the $20 range. Poor Boys comes to mind very quickly.

Right now Autogeek has a killer deal on a buffer that is newbie friendly and works well.

http://www.autogeek.net/members-only.html

Wish you had made it up to NEBF. We would have empowered you quickly. One of the bennies at some of these meets is the ability to try the buffers and the different waxes/sealants. You will quickly see what the difference is and if the process is really for you. Honestly some members are happy with what they have and do not want to invest the time to make their Bonny stand out. And believe me that is OK. Some of us look at it as a therapy and some actually make some extra change to support the therapy sessions.

Ask your questions and we will help you out.

Which Washington Township did you see theres I believe 3 in NJ lol. Were was NEBF?, and when? MY car paint is silver. I was thinking to first start off with a wash, claybar, then wax job. You think I should try it by hand first?

EWC88 wrote:Which Washington Township did you see theres I believe 3 in NJ lol. Were was NEBF?, and when? MY car paint is silver. I was thinking to first start off with a wash, claybar, then wax job. You think I should try it by hand first?

NEBF was this past June in CT. The silver will make it harder to POP by hand but it can be done. The Megs Gold Class wash is a decent wash. The claybar is up to you either the Mothers, Megs, or Clay Magic kits will work. I would recommend that you spend the extra money and pick up some Poor Boys Natty Red wax. This wax works well on light colored cars.

http://www.autogeek.net/poorboys-nattys-red-wax.html

If you are going to purchase a random orbital buffer be prepared to spend close to $200 for the buffer pads and polish. This is in addition to the claybar, wash and the wax.

This kit will get you started but I would recommend separate purchases of polishes and pads.

http://www.autogeek.net/griots-random-o ... uffer.html

You can do a nice detail yourself without too much hassle. Here are some points to consider:
- Don't use a buffer or any electric tool. It's too easy to damage the clear coat and/ or paint.
- Use two buckets, one for soapy water and one for rinse water. I use a microfiber covered
sponge. Wash with soapy water and then rinse it before you put it back in the soapy
bucket. This keeps the soapy water and sponge clean. Detailers do this.
- Wash and rinse the car well. Then shammy it dry. Decent shammies are easy to find.
- Get a good car wax ( I like Mothers ) and apply it by the directions. Buff off the wax with a
microfiber cloth.
- For that black trim that you may have, Turtle wax Ice is easy to use and yields nice results.
- A good wheel cleaner solution will loosen brake dust and grime from your wheels. A brush will help you to make the wheels and rims clean. To finish them use a wheel gloss spray. ( I use STP Son of a Gun ).

Want to go the extra mile? Try these ideas:
- Clean and wax the door jams, the inside track of the hood and the trunk. They'll look good
and the wax will help to protect those metal surfaces.
- Clean the wheel wells and (if necessary) consider using a good underbody coating in them.
- Clean the interior with mild soapy water. If it's leather, saddle soap cleans and protects.
- If you like a shiny interior, Armor All and the like will get the job done.
- Carpet cleaner for any stains on the floor.

And lastly, there are many sites that have detailing ideas. Check them out. Is it all worth it?
I detailed my Bonne in one day. When my neighbors and friends saw it, they asked me if I'd detail their cars! Two days after detailing I was offered double what I paid for the car. Good luck!

Phibes wrote:You can do a nice detail yourself without too much hassle. Here are some points to consider:
- Don't use a buffer or any electric tool. It's too easy to damage the clear coat and/ or paint.
- Use two buckets, one for soapy water and one for rinse water. I use a microfiber covered
sponge. Wash with soapy water and then rinse it before you put it back in the soapy
bucket. This keeps the soapy water and sponge clean. Detailers do this.
- Wash and rinse the car well. Then shammy it dry. Decent shammies are easy to find.
- Get a good car wax ( I like Mothers ) and apply it by the directions. Buff off the wax with a
microfiber cloth.
- For that black trim that you may have, Turtle wax Ice is easy to use and yields nice results.
- A good wheel cleaner solution will loosen brake dust and grime from your wheels. A brush will help you to make the wheels and rims clean. To finish them use a wheel gloss spray. ( I use STP Son of a Gun ).

Want to go the extra mile? Try these ideas:
- Clean and wax the door jams, the inside track of the hood and the trunk. They'll look good
and the wax will help to protect those metal surfaces.
- Clean the wheel wells and (if necessary) consider using a good underbody coating in them.
- Clean the interior with mild soapy water. If it's leather, saddle soap cleans and protects.
- If you like a shiny interior, Armor All and the like will get the job done.
- Carpet cleaner for any stains on the floor.

And lastly, there are many sites that have detailing ideas. Check them out. Is it all worth it?
I detailed my Bonne in one day. When my neighbors and friends saw it, they asked me if I'd detail their cars! Two days after detailing I was offered double what I paid for the car. Good luck!

All good points, except the first one about not using a buffer or an electric tool. That is true for a rotary polisher as they cause a lot of heat and can quickly burn through the paint. However, a random orbital like the Porter Cable 7424 is a great tool for a beginner and is near impossible to damage paint with.

Don't forget clay bar

Yea I think I might actaully buy the porter cable 7424 since autogeek has that deal on it. Unless you think I should get the kind 95SLE posted?

But I think I will probably still do the first detail by hand, and maybe one time this year I'll be able to meet with someone near me (NJ,PA,DE,MD,VA) to help teach me how to work the porter.

If your going all out with a detail make sure you pay attention to the headlights too. I use a little turtle wax polishing compound first and then some PlastiX (not sure of brand, I think its Meguairs). Bright, clean headlights go along way toward making your car look new.

Yea I was planning on doing the headlights as well. Ryan did a AMAZING job on his and I need to do mine badly since its crazily hazy :(

People rave about the shine on my cars, and I've never ever felt the need or used a powered buffer. Whatever people's opinions on whether they can damage your finish or not, I've never needed one. If you use one without having your car really clean, you'll just be grinding dirt into your finish.

I'd stick with washing with something like gold class, or if I'm claybarring I just use Dawn dishwashing liquid first, then claybar. Then I don't know about anybody else, but I wash again after the claybar just to get any residue off, then I wax with Liquid Glass, applying and buffing by hand.

What products would you use if you have key marks on your car? :(

Heres a pic

If you cannot feel that scratch with your finger nail, a buffer will easily remove it. Otherwise you won't be able to do it with a buffer. You can make it look a little better though since the polish will round the edges of the scratch so it's a little less noticable.

But if you really want to spend the time and money (figure a couple hundred bucks to get started with a buffer and all the rest) to have your car look like new, the buffer is worth it. Claying and waxing it by hand will make it shine, but that isn't going to help anything that has permanently damaged the paint (water spots-which clay bars don't always remove, scratches, swirls, etc.). When I got a Porter Cable, I used it on my ten year old Olds. I masked half the hood, and polished one side. I was just amazed at the difference. I had clayed it, and pretty regularly waxed it, but it still made a huge improvement. When I sold it about a year later, the guy was amazed at how good it looked. But be prepared to spend 15-20 hours to do it right. But then if you take care of it, you should only have to do a light polish maybe once a year.

I'll have to run my finger across the scratch to see how bad it is. I'm hoping not to bad, they have been there for some time now. I do want to get into detailing really so I know I will be purchasing the porter cable soon. My only thing is I am still a noob and don't want to do more damage. Maybe if there is anyone near me that would like to help me out/ teach me that would be great. I'd be willing to drive to them and everything.

I'll check though with my finger and update on that.

No worries with the PC. That machine requires heavy pressure and moving very slow to do good correction on scratches. The only way you can damage paint is if you pressed as hard as you could and didn't move the machine for like a minute or more. All you need to do is monitor the heat. If the paint gets hot, which it won't with a PC, that's when you have to watch out for damaging the paint.

You do need to be careful with plastic though because it can heat up easier than paint. The machine has a dial for the speed, and you usually want to go a little slower on plastic, but you still don't need to worry about damaging the paint even on plastic. The only concern is to be careful around trim. You will want to tape it off the first time until you get the feel for it. Otherwise you can damage your pad, or worse, rip off a piece of trim if it's loose.