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Oil lines
Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 4:28 pm
by timothy_nd28
Have been using Q horspower synth oil for awhile now, decided to change to Mobile 1 synthetic last oil change. Lower oil pressure, and now I have small oil spots on my driveway.
I think the leak is coming from the oil lines from the oil filter to the radiator. Where can I get these at?
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 4:48 pm
by irkwerks2
Tim,
The oil lines from your engine to your radiator are for the transmission oil.
The spots on your driveway would be pinkish/red in color if they are leaking.
If indead you are leaking "motor oil" the valve covers or the oil pan are the place to start looking.
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 5:04 pm
by timothy_nd28
I replaced those transmission lines last month, partly because the tow truck driver towed the car back to my house, ripping off the trans lines while backing the car in the driveway. Partly my fault, it was a huge snow bank at the skirt of the driveway and I should of shoveled it before that guy came.
I remember seeing 2 lines threaded into the oil filter area, going towards the front of the car, assuming it goes to the radiator. It looked stock, I don't think it was added on by the previous owner. Guide me in the right direction with this
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 6:58 pm
by irkwerks2
I'm not sure what you are refering to , but I'm sure one of the gearheads will chime in soon.
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 6:59 pm
by harofreak00
Those are indeed oil lines.
Can you tell where its leaking? At the fittings?
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 12:13 am
by Billha
The fittings have leaked on my '93 SSEi since I bought it in '99, and I've heard that this isn't uncommon. On mine, the oil drips down onto the rubber on the lower suspension bushing and onto the oil filter.
I've tried tightening the fittings, but didn't have the right types of wrenches; I think you need a large flare wrench or a special wrench for the larger of the 2 fittings. My open-end wrenches and crescent wrenches have too much steel around the working end, and don't fit in the tight space around the fitting.
If this is where yours is leaking, maybe you'll have better luck than I have.
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Sat Mar 28, 2009 9:48 am
by timothy_nd28
The oil spots left on my driveway are about 2" diameter and at a rate of every morning. These spots are located just off center, towards the driver side alittle, under the radiator. I have tried looking for this tiny leak from looking above. I assumed those steel fittings at the oil filter area, turns into rubber and connects to that side of the radiator, which I'm seeing the oil spots in the morning. I should get under this car to visually inspect, but I have been lazy of doing that, and assuming it's the rubber steel lines, kinda like the tranny ones that I just replaced not that long ago, it's due for replacement.
I'm pretty sure it's not leaking from the fittings. I have had the engine out about 2 years ago, and kinda recall taking those fittings off to pull the engine. I have a terrible memory. If I did, they were put back on tight, plus I have no oil in the driveway, in that area.
I have been calling the local autoparts stores, and no one has such a oil line for this car. Has anyone else replaced these before? They do sell the connector that threads into that oil filter assy.
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:25 pm
by timothy_nd28
Changed the oil today, did a complete inspection under the car. As I suspected, 2 oil lines,,,steel at the oil filter area, turning into rubber, then back to steel as it enters the radiator. Oil is seeping out at the transistion where rubber meets steel.
I have called all local autopart stores in town, and no-one has such a thing listed in their catalogs. It's funny, they all have the trans lines in stock, but nothing listed for the oil lines. They all say it's not a OEM cooler, and I'm on my own,,,WTF!!!
Am I the first one to ever replace these? Is there a secret place where I can purchase these, or is this a custom deal at the local hydraulic shop?
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 10:47 pm
by Roadrunner
Dealer only item. I think one is $50 and the other is like $30 IIRC.
Also, you might be able have yours repaired at a hydraulic shop if not in too bad shape.
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:01 pm
by irkwerks2
GM Parts Direct has them...Upper $31.02
Lower $20.34
There were no part numbers, described as Oil cooling lines.
Alot of people are not too happy with GMPD and their shipping (30 + days), but if you take these prices to a dealer he MAY match them for you.
Hope this helps.
Re: Oil lines
Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:02 pm
by wjcollier07
There's good and bad to this.
Bad-
Oil cooler lines are simply not available for the SSEs and SSEis with auxiliary oil coolers. The only lines available are usually for the Chevy 4.3 that have a remote filter setup, and those lines leak, constantly, so even GM sees a good reason to keep those in stock, otherwise, its quite a problem. I BELIEVE VPI has them still however, you may want to give them a call...or your local dealer should be able to order them from VPI for you.
On a side note, your transmission lines are probably due for replacing as well, and not replacing them can lead to a nice underhood fire, not all too uncommon. Good news here, those ARE available...and quite affordable. Edelmann has the best IMO, and the closest to a perfect OE match. Dorman has whatever Edelmann doesn't, but I've not found many times where that's the case.
Good-
An option, and this is only an opinion if you're short on money and can't have it done professionally... with a hydraulic steel pipe cutter, (cheap item, found in many hardware and parts stores) cut just past the rubber hose crimps, then with a flaring tool (not AS cheap, but still widely available) make yourself a small beaded hose connection, and with some HIGH TEMP (302 degree, i forget the spec number) hose (I believe it'll be 1/2" ID, POSSIBLY 3/8" ID, be sure to verify) make up the same connection with hose clamps on that freshly beaded connection. No reason for it to leak then.
It's not the perfect way of doing it, but, it is inexpensive, it should stop the leak, and I can't see why you'd have any problem doing it.
I'll continue looking for some part numbers.