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Yeah, you need tuning... A wideband and lots of tuning.

I will admit to intentionally stressing the parts, I have to know what's going to work and what I'll need to change for next year.

It's developed a bit of a hesitation at WOT at about 4500RPM, and seems not as strong above that, no KR or drop in timing on the scangauge. I found that one of the ignition wires is arcing near the plug, so I'll have to see if it's just a loose crimp or if I need to look at a set of Taylor wires. I had to change the straight ends of the wires to fit with the new headers, I'll be trying to find a 135 degree wire end if I have to redo these. The 135 boots that I was able to get don't actually fit and the 90's I have are too much of a bend.

My gas mileage has gone up significantly now that I'm actually doing some cruising. The hockey puck subframe mounts combined with the stiff polyurethane motor mounts are just too much vibration, at certain RPM ranges it just resonates through the entire body of the car. This should be solved by the poly bushings I ordered. If not I'll have to use a softer PU for the motor mounts.

One of my headlamps has a broken height adjuster, and the other the bulb flickers out whenever I hit bumps, and stays out until I turn them of and back on, sometimes it takes a few cycles to get it to light, and it doesn't seem as bright as the other one.

The only other issue at the moment is that either I have a wheel bearing or outer CV going bad. I have spares for each.

You don't have a wideband??!

Also, what HID kit did you buy for your retro? Did you just go with TRS stuff? They had a recall on some of their ballasts.

nos4blood70 wrote:You don't have a wideband??!

My brother has the wideband, but so far it's only a variation on the open loop NIC tune so yeah it's running a little rich and could use more timing. I was going to do some more work on it this weekend, I wanted to get the SC bypass functional first.

TRS retros, I just have to give them a call.

I might have an extra ballast laying around, I'll check when I get home.

Turns out that one of the charge pipe clamps wasn't torqued down all the way and blew off which is why I it felt like I was hitting a wall at 4500rpm.

Problem is now solved and I've also changed to the 7psi spring. Switchover does happen, around 4500rpm. It's an interesting progression, all SC below 3500, compounds between 3500 and 4500, then all turbo after 4500. It could use some dampening on the SC bypass valve so the switchover isn't so abrupt.

Maybe these?

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/MiniWhee ... ue&sw=1440

I like those.

Looks like I need to step up to 300M axles shafts.

Oh my.......how have you done that

I sure hope you can get replacements faster than you got those ones.

Well that was fast...

The wheels are okay, but I think you can do better. I'd find something more racekar. Of the one's on Tirerack, these are my favorite personally...
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/MiniWhee ... ue&sw=1280

Not sure of the offsets on the earlier gens, but maybe some wheel spacers could help give a nice meaty functional stance.

Funny thing. I broke the 4T65 input shaft on a 1-2 upshift, and now I've broken a 4140 axle on a 1-2 upshift. It was raining out, and the tires are only 215 wide.. Just, what?...

Was that the side where you put the notch in the splines?

It looks like it broke at the notch for the boot.

I wonder how they cut that and if they put a radius on the corners or not?

I think I needed to push for the 4340 that I originally wanted, instead of the easier to machine 4140. The next iteration will not have any grooves for the boots. I'll have to measure the parts, but the boot groove was probably cut too deep even though it was radiused.

Could probably just zip tie the boots on. Also why did you end up with the 4140 instead?