PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

I got the 150# springs for dirt cheap before I learned about race only springs and that's the reason they were cheap. I was originally looking for a 140# spring.

ST5 is a big cam, plus rockers, and turbo backpressure. I might get away with 130# if I didn't spin past 6k. ST5 makes power all the way to 6800.

I am running the 105# Comp Cams springs. I only went to them after losing a motor due to a Crow spring breaking.

But weren't people flocking to the Crow Cams springs because Comp Cams kept breaking? I recall Paul from PRJ Performance told me that the springs are fine, but they crack because they need more oil flowing under the valve covers to cool them. It's assumed that increasing the oil pressure in the engine helps keep any performance spring going longer.

People went to crows because they were cheaper. There was a period where they had a bad run or something. After I broke a spring with 10k miles on it, I looked elsewhere. Have almost 30 on the Comps with OR rods and no issues at all.

Well, all right then. I'm glad the cracking springs are over now!

It looks like I found an energy suspension body mount that would work as a bushing for our subframes. I came across this site, which has measured each different body mount in each kit ES sells, they offer to sell them seperately: http://www.suspension.com/BODYMOUNT.html

Long story short, 3.4148, kit contains enough bushings to do two cars. Some grinding would need to be done to the subframe. The other benefit is it looks like these would also replace the hockey puck mounts I have with only minor trimming.

So I'm seeing possibility that the pushrods I have are not 'strong enough' for my springs, but the only further upgrade is a 3/8" pushrod, which one vendor claims do not fit a 3800.

Comp makes a 5/16 pushrod with a 0.105 wall thickness, but it's not oil restricted.

Idk about series 2 but i think 3/8 would defiantly fit in the ln3, not sure if this helps. But i must question whats different about your setup that the pushrods would be a failure point? I assume people have ran your springs before without problem on higher hp builds.

I can measure my spare heads when i get home tomorrow and let you know the bore and clearance.

Intense says right on their pushrod page that springs over 130# would need the 3/8" pushrods (as well as setups over 20psi boost), while ZZP says that 3/8 pushrods don't fit.

And I don't want to have to pull everything apart again later for broken pushrods.

I have a feeling they will fit fine, i don't think intense would suggest them if they didn't fit.

I don't see why they wouldn't fit. Did you pull the ones out that I sold you? Bent one? I don't remember who intense has make their pushrods. but maybe find out. Those. O83 walls should be pretty sturdy.

This reminds me, I really need to upgrade my pushrods. Still running the original yella terra units with 1.8 rockers and an s1x cam and 130# springs.

What do you see wrong with this picture?

Rocker arm bolts snapped? (assuming there's no hole in the fabric)

The only thing I noticed at first is the slight color variation on the allen head in the front. Heat? or is this just a result of the flash?

And hard to tell from the angle in the pic, but is there a hole for the oil to pass through up by the push rod?

Yes, they snapped right at the base of the pedestal. Not sure if I should get a stud kit now, or try the comp cams bolts. I was using alloy socket head cap screws, 170,000psi tensile strength.

Are those YT rockers Matt? What kind of spring pressures are those springs putting out under load? Only reason I ask is a lot of the LS guys with the YT rockers have a lot of trouble with the rockers and sometimes the bolts with springs that give 400lbs or more of open pressure. I'm not positive, but I believe the 3800 rockers and the LS rockers are the same design. Is it possible that you might be using too much spring for that style bolt?

It's entirely possible it's just too much spring, but it's also possible I over-torqued one of the bolts and it was already compromised.

I've put on the comp cams bolts now, we'll see how that works.

Those high strength bolts require a much higher pre-load torque value. What did you torque them to.
If they were under torqued, they would fatigue crack.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/pro ... ations.pdf

I had them the same as the comp bolts - 23ft-lbs