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If its referencing pressure before the blower vs pressure after the blower, its basically automatically going to switch to the one with higher pressure, correct? If theres more boost coming from the turbo, it should open the valve because that would replicate a low load scenario. When the blower is making more boost, there should be a stronger signal from the LIM and it would close the valve.

And, when it comes to the valve bypassing from just engine vacuum, I don't think it works exactly how you described it. The valve doesn't measure a pressure difference, just opens, or closes depending on whether or not it is subjected to vacuum. Under stock configuration, the valve goes into bypass when the natural vacuum of idle occurs. Once you accelerate, and lose vacuum, it goes into boost. The valve will not be able to discern what is producing higher output since the s/c, and turbo are ultimately connected to the same plenum. From the tree the valve is connected to, it will see an averaged pressure reading.

I got the alignment done today. The camber on the passenger side won't come in far enough so I'll try to get some camber bolts. Drivers side is spot on. Still pulls to the left a little, but I'm hoping that's just because the tires are mismatched for the moment.

I've been driving it around most of the day to heat cycle it a few times and flush out any other issues. The clutch has gotten way better now, the friction zone was moving up all day, now it's at about 30% depressed.

1st and second seem to be a little difficult to get them to mesh. Not sure if that's the right way to describe it. The trans has 2 quarts in it, going to throw in a little more along with some motorkote as well next.

We went for a ride a little bit ago and it seems pretty good. It's a weird feeling riding in a Bonneville that's manual. We stopped by where people gather with their cars and this happened when Matt opened the hood.

I heard "Holy *shoot* there's a turbo!" several times.

Haha, that's awesome!

The HIDs work pretty well. But the one housing has a broken adjuster so I can't get it to hold any adjustments.

I've got a baseline tune on it now but until I figure out what I'm doing with the bypass it's compound boosting. The stock boost gauge gets pegged around 3600 rpm.

haro1225 wrote:We went for a ride a little bit ago and it seems pretty good. It's a weird feeling riding in a Bonneville that's manual. We stopped by where people gather with their cars and this happened when Matt opened the hood. I heard "Holy *shoot* there's a turbo!" several times.

I would have loved to have been there to hear not only the comments, but the car and most of all, the ride!. - BC

And here is what I recorded with my phone. I am going to borrow a GoPro here soon and hopefully get a better video of this beast.
http://youtu.be/wwZkaU9XjhY

That video just made me miss my SSE and PAU SOOOO much. That gauge cluster, that whine....ridiculous.

I look forward to some more driving videos of this machine! I can't wait to see an all out pull once it's 100% tuned. Definitely don't want to see you blow it up by jumping on it too hard, too soon...

Excellent progress!!

So I was driving it around today. Not really pushing it or anything, just cruising and working on my shifting.

And it starts to misfire and ping like crazy.

It's not the ICM, not a coil, shows up as #2 misfire DTC, not the crank/cam sensor... So I'm going to guess either I'm looking at a fuel injector failure, a broken pushrod, or a 'race only' spring failure already. I'll have to look at it more next weekend.

MattStrike wrote:So I was driving it around today. Not really pushing it or anything, just cruising and working on my shifting.

And it starts to misfire and ping like crazy.

It's not the ICM, not a coil, shows up as #2 misfire DTC, not the crank/cam sensor... So I'm going to guess either I'm looking at a fuel injector failure, a broken pushrod, or a 'race only' spring failure already. I'll have to look at it more next weekend.

.. - BC

Ahhhh the wonderful world of racekars.

Those race springs really realllyyy reallllllyyyyyyyy don't like DD duty.

Which makes me question just how many runs down a track they really last for if they can break this quickly, I've put on maybe 100 miles city driving. Personally I'm hoping it's just a failed fuel injector at this point. At least those were already planned for replacement.

My friend has race springs on his GP GXP and one failed after like 1600 miles i think.

That's more along what I was expecting. I was planning to be able to change to the PAC springs over winter, the race spring should have lasted a few months, but no matter what it ends up being I'll have to do those too while I have everything else apart again.

Did you put those on new with this build or were they from the NIC build?

Brand new for this build, even had the spring seats machined to match as required.

MattStrike wrote:Brand new for this build, even had the spring seats machined to match as required.

I may be mistaken, but I think myfirstbonne may have used Chevrolet hi-performance spring set on the rubber chicken. For DD, or even a "reliable" 'daily race car", wouldn't you want a set of HP Chevy valve springs? - BC

Race springs? Matt's are 105 lb
Are yours 130 lb?
I have not been able to float my valves with 90 lb and I shift at 6200 rpm with a 6500 rpm max

Hes got more cam and more boost to need the extra spring.