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On a much closer inspection I found some scuffing on one of the valves in the 1-2 valve train, also found that there was a burr on the end of the servo that the piston could stick on, not sure if either of those two issues are the cause. I cleaned up both of those issues, hoping that plus the shift kit and new gaskets and seals takes care of the issue. So far all valve trains are moving freely and correctly.

In other news, having issues locating replacement axle shaft slingers. Found replacement seals, but that's not very helpful without the slingers.

Found replacement axle stub shaft slingers, both slingers and seals are in the mail now. Also worked out a hybrid Northstar/corporate metric to Chevy bell housing adapter that is being water-jetted now. Going with 5/8" thick 6061 aluminum for the adapter. Hopefully doesn't take too long to get here. Trying to get the trans finished and everything mounted up in the frame this weekend.

I think I found the issue in the trans. The check ball for the auxiliary valve body was in the feed line for the governor, which is the line next to the one it was supposed to be in. I'm wondering how that happened, but it's fixed now.

Just wanted to chime in and let you know you aren't talking to yourself. This is an interesting build for sure. Can't wait to see the finished product in person. And the looks on people's faces when you pull this into the meet hahahaha. You're planning on taking it right?

BonnieBoy08 wrote:Just wanted to chime in and let you know you aren't talking to yourself. This is an interesting build for sure. Can't wait to see the finished product in person. And the looks on people's faces when you pull this into the meet hahahaha. You're planning on taking it right?

Definitely not the only one interested in this build!! I can't wait to see it done!!

But I'm pretty sure this truck will be at the meet regardless of whether it is running or not... it's at his place, isn't it????

I meant the accompanying 3800 gathering sponsored by Intense that we will all go to on Saturday.

I think he may have to hire somebody to drive one of these to the intense meet.

Trans is together, just waiting on a filter for it. Also need to stop at local trans shop to see if I can get a custom torque converter made that uses the V6 housing with the V8 internals. If I can't do that then I'll end up making an adapter plate.


Finally finished the brake lines in the rear:


Fuel filters are mounted, and all the fuel lines are complete:


And got around to the first test fit! Used a spare trans case to mock this up. Turns out I can't re-use the intake that we made, there is a lot less room between the firewall and the motor on the truck. So I'll have to flip the intake manifold around. And there's some work to do on the exhaust manifolds.

Tore down the top end to reverse the intake, found a nasty surprise:


Looks a little better this way I think.


Series 2 belt tensioner trimmed and flipped:


This is what I'm planning for the belt routing. Was considering running dual alternators, but not sure I want to yet. I think I want to use an F-body oil filter adapter and either a S1 L67 or F-body power steering pump.

Has anyone mentioned RWD exhaust manifolds you can probably get from Australia?

I looked into that when I started this project, also looked at their headers. The deterrent comes in with shipping costs, which is in the $250-$350 range.

Google "Crazy Paul" out of Australia. He's very good on prices. Get ahold of him.

Moving right along with things. Got the engine all cleaned up and working on the belt drive. I'm planning a dual alternator setup now, started mocking that up today:


I've been thinking about converting this to OBD-2, so I can tune it. The first thing that comes to mind as a roadblock is the crank/cam trigger. Aside from the adjustable mount for the crank sensor, does anybody know if the timing on the crank and cam interrupts is the same between the L27 and a series 2? I think I found a good spot on the block to add the dual knock sensors. Anything else I might be forgetting about?

The first of the important pieces has arrived!


Notice that it's backward compatible with the Northstar bolt pattern and the corporate metric pattern. I originally bought the speedway motors adapter plate, but it was too thin and required a lot of silly cutting and welding on the trans and block to make it work with the 3800.

So I did some engineering and created my own adapter plate. 5/8" thick 6061 aluminum, waterjetting courtesy of Big Blue Saw. The local waterjetting place is more of a production/prototype oriented facility, not really setup for a cost effective means of doing this for an individual. I'll be tapping and couterboring it myself. The way this works is the bolt holes to attach it to the block are countersunk so that the button head screws sit flush. The trans dowel pins are shoulder bolts that thread into the adapter, and the trans bolts thread to the adapter after it's on the engine similar to how it's normally bolted on. The reverse bolt on the block comes through the other side and threads into the adapter.

The reason for the shoulder bolts and threading the reverse bolt into the adapter is there isn't enough clearance in that area. You can see how the other adapter tried to use a countersink with a flat head screw...

Finished up the adapter plate today.



Just waiting on the Torque converter now. Once I have that the trans and engine will go in.

The new torque converter came in today, so I got the trans bolted up to the motor and back in the truck so I can mark up engine mounts.

New TCC:


Adapter plate bolted to the engine:


Engine and trans together for the first time:


The busy area near the backwards block bolt:


And sitting in place to get motor mounts created:

I might have been convinced to throw the twin T25's on here. It would make the exhaust a lot simpler, though I'd run low boost without an intercooler at first. Then I could save the Northstar for the T Type. Argh! Can't decide!.....

MattStrike wrote:I might have been convinced to throw the twin T25's on here. It would make the exhaust a lot simpler, though I'd run low boost without an intercooler at first. Then I could save the Northstar for the T Type. Argh! Can't decide!.....

I don't think you will have enough room in there, it's looking pretty cramped already.

So I've been thinking about this one a lot. Since I'll be running dual alternators, I have no excuse to not run an electric power steering system. Looks like the donor will be a '02-'07 Saturn Vue, using a simple controller from Ebay ($70). I can use the lathe to make the couplers, and a small reservior that loops the existing steering box lines so it doesn't run dry.

This way I have more room for A/C if I want. The longest Serpentine belt I could find was only 120" so that limits what I can do with the belt routing.