The AClockworkGarage.com Race car build thread.

[Jrs3800]

Not sure what happened mike, But the threads in the end of the cam are not happy, we get most of the way in and the bolt stops 1/4" from touching the cam gear... Did you have any issues at all?

We can screw the bolt all the way into the stock cam... We chased/cleaned the threads hopping to get enough to be able to run the bolt in all the way but it was a no go..

We have thought of a couple of possibilities that could work for us... One take the cam out and let a machine shop look at it, and or mill the threads on the cam bolt down at the end roughly .33 so the bolt will thread all the way in and can be torqued..

Thoughts?

[MattStrike]

The cam bolt is TTY, so taking away threads might not be a good idea. Were you able to find the right tap chase them all the way to the bottom? Perhaps there's leftover threads from another bolt stuck inside and a pick can be used to clean it out.

[95naSTA]

Not sure what happened mike, But the threads in the end of the cam are not happy, we get most of the way in and the bolt stops 1/4" from touching the cam gear... Did you have any issues at all?

We can screw the bolt all the way into the stock cam... We chased/cleaned the threads hopping to get enough to be able to run the bolt in all the way but it was a no go..

We have thought of a couple of possibilities that could work for us... One take the cam out and let a machine shop look at it, and or mill the threads on the cam bolt down at the end roughly .33 so the bolt will thread all the way in and can be torqued..

Thoughts?

I have no idea.. It was fine for the 80k or whatever miles I put on it (installed with new OEM bolt) and there was no issue taking it out..

Maybe try a tap for a blind hole to run down to the bottom?

[myfirstbonnie]

I have a few parts here I am willing to donate if needed. They are from a couple L32's and L67's if needed. I have 2 cast oil pans from the GP flavor if wanted. Let me know if there are any little things needed, just remember all my parts will be the boosted flavor.

[Jrs3800]

Thanks Matt, we are using the 05 H body oil pan, it was glued to the block like the later GP's ensuring no leaks, so we should be ok there.. But I may take you up on that as the 95 L27 is drilled with the same pattern as the series II, even used the same identical oil pan and windage tray/gasket..

Mike I have no clue what happened, both the old and new bolt thread into the stock cam all the way with no issues.. Neither one will bottom out on the GT1 cam..

And yes the stock bolts are TTY, however it looks a lot like the holding power would not be affected by trimming down a hair..

We will get this figured out as that GT1 is here to stay...lol... Its the little sh** that makes it interesting...LOL

I need to find a 1/2-20 thread chaser without a tapered end, if thats possible...?

[yourgrandma]

Just grind down the tap you have. Don't het it so hot that you get a huge burr on it and hit the end with a wore brush.

[Marik_bathory]

I have a few parts here I am willing to donate if needed.

That's a generous offer, thank you so much.

But I believe we've got the big stuff that we need. I think the only big stuff we need right now is an HD axle and brake parts.

If anybody does want to contribute to this build pop over here and see what I've got for sale. www.AClockworkGarage.com

[2000Silverbullet]

Interesting products at the clockwork garage.
You must have a lot of time on your hand....

[Marik_bathory]

Speaking of too much time on my hands I went ahead and got the intake manifold prepped for paint. gonna use the Duplicolour 1200 degree engine paint on this one. Red. I figure it will be burried beneath the fuel rail and the intake and the valve covers enough that it will be a nice accent piece.

As always the secret to a good paint job is the prep work. I popped a movie on and got to work. My hammer technique never fails to give a perfect mask.



For those of you that don't know it, lay the tape on leaving 1/2 inch of overlap around the area you wish to mask. then use a small hammer like this awesome high school metal shop cone pien hammer I turned myself about 16 years ago.



Sorry... use a small hammer to gently tap along the edge while pulling the tape down. The machined edge of the manifold will act as a blade perfectly cutting the tape to the desired shape. Works every time.

and here she is, 90 minutes of taping and she's ready for spray.




Tommorow. I'm tired now. I had to be at work at 4am this morning...



Jeeze, tough crowd.

[SSEiMan01]

I wish I prepped my LIM that well. But mine didn't turn out half bad for what I did.

[Marik_bathory]

Well, let's see a pic. I'm still not sure how it's going to look once it all goes together. I'm kind of worried that all the nice new parts will just make the older parts look worse.

[SSEiMan01]

The only decent pic in my photobucket. I'm not unhappy with it, just if I look hard enough I can see imperfections in it. But it is my DD after all.

I don't think painted parts will make the old stuff look worse, mine looked fine until the headers started flaking, making me wish I left them alone.

[Marik_bathory]

Doesn't look bad and I'm sure it looked great with that Eaton mounted on it.

painting mine now, but it's raining so I'm doing it indoors, in a cardboard box with a fan pointing out the window. It's...not ideal. but I need it to be done tomorrow so that's the choice.

[Marik_bathory]

Improvise:


and now the unmasking. It's like unwrapping a birthday present.




and now a quick bake in the oven, since it's so humid.



I think it turned out alright. but I really won't know for sure until everything is back together.

[Marik_bathory]

Here's the Saturday update. We started early with $15 dollars worth of blind hole tap. That thing cost more than the whole set of tapered ones. anyway a few gentle runs with that and Bam! Cammed.


Yes, I realize we forgot the tensioner. We put it on afterwards but it didn't really warrant another pic.

With that We shifted our attention to the manifold. since I already had the taps out I went ahead and ran the coolant passages. a couple of flush hex head set screws and some Teflon tape and the flow is redirected away from the TB. Those are 7/16 BTW. I bought three pairs before I got it right.



If you bypass the TB coolant passages you must open up the end to compensate for the loss of flow. So we did that. Air tools are great...



We also swapped the Stovepipe for a smaller diameter but I didn't take any pictures. Deal with it. With the manifold squared away we moved on to the rest of the valvetrain. Bigger bump means bigger springs. These aughta do the jorb...


Looking good.

For Fvcks sake! Warn me before you do that! I would have put my human face on...

It's a tedious but ultimately simple project. Wrapping up the last one now.

And there's the completed valvetrain.

[Marik_bathory]

The weeks away from the car have been spent cleaning and refinishing parts. with the valvetrain finished up we got an opportunity to see how it's looking, since it's only existed in piles up until now. First I dropped the manifold in place.


No idiot. That's backwards.


There you go. Now balance everything on top and you'll get the first peek at your new motor.


Those manifolds just kill the whole look. Better do something about that...


That'll do.


That'll do nicely.

[2000Silverbullet]

[haro1225]

You may have to cut the crossover and add an easy seal band clamp on those headers. For whatever reason the bend isn't at the right angle.

[2000Silverbullet]

Big tube? What make?

[Marik_bathory]

Small tube Speed Daddys. For an NA the small tubes will be plenty.