PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

Amazing that there is no mold under that.
Did GM treat them to resist for mold somehow?

You got me. But what is odd, is that sheet of rubber-goo-backed heavy aluminum foil or something that's put down on each of the floor surfaces. No idea what those are for, but they could have tried to put them on straight (see pic in previous post).

Cue comment about GM's quality going down the tubes.

Bvill_GXP wrote:Mine did that and i found some info on this site that the sunroof drain holes could be stopped up!!! So i took a air hose and blow out all 4 corners... and it hasn't leaked since then!!!

This is what I was going to point to. Those drainage tubes run all the way down and out behind the front wheels, so the blockage can be anywhere along that tube.

I blew out the drain tubes and they drain great now. So I'm confident they won't back up again for awhile anyway, but I still need to adjust the sunroof to reduce the amount of water being introduced into the drain channels in the first place.

On another note, I believe I've found the source of the water on the rear passenger floor as well. The driver's door is indeed leaking from inside the trim panel, so the plastic membrane has opened up on the bottom. I need to pull the door panel off to fix the speaker anyway, so I'll take care of that next weekend after I get the new fasteners (thanks, Andrew); would rather not have to take the door trim off too many times. In the meantime, I need to get the carpets, headliner and interior trim all cleaned up and ready to put back in once I make sure I get the leaks fixed and the POR15 on the rear floor rusty areas. Progressing well.

That's simple. There are 4 T20 (I believe) screws, 2 on each side, that if you loosen them, you can then adjust the glass up/down to fit properly.

Check out page 1 of this thread. He states that the position is still too low even after adjusting the glass all the way up.

harofreak00 wrote:If its off that much, I would suggest this:

Use the vent position to get the glass sitting how you would like it to sit. Then remove the sunroof motor, and by using the switch set it back to the normal closed position. Then reinstall the motor.

Or, the correct GM way with the window fully closed;

- Remove the sunroof window. Refer to Sunroof Window Replacement .
- Fabricate a gage (2) 46.8 mm (1.84 in) wide (A). A piece of thick paper will work.
- Set the gage into the track near the rear of the opening between the move driver slide (1) and the bracket.
- Move the driver slide fore or aft in order to get the proper setting.
- Repeat steps 3 and 4 for the other side.
- Install the sunroof window. Refer to Sunroof Window Replacement .
- Install the sunroof actuator.
- Operate the sunroof through all functions to ensure proper operation.

GM calls this Sunroof track/timing synchronization. 9 times out of 10, adjusting the glass like I mentioned fixes the problem. If you need to re-synchronize the track on a sunroof already installed/used on the car, there may be other issues. The only time you *should* have to do this re-syncrhonizing is when you're replacing a motor with a new one as the factory sets them at the fully closed position. This timing is then needed to synchronize the track to ensure proper closing, opening and tilting of the roof.

Thanks, CM. I'll give that a try.

I'm sure it's just me, but in the end, I didn't really get those instructions, CMNTMXR. So I took one of the earlier suggestions and got the roof where I wanted it, where it looked like the best possible seal, then I dropped the motor, ran it to full stop and replaced it. Worked like a charm. Sunroof project done.

I then removed the driver's door panel and put the hose to the window. Sure enough, the bottom front corner of the water barrier was leaking. Fixed that up.

To clean the headliner and sunshade, I used the same Blue Coral Carpet/Upholstery Cleaner that I used on the carpeting. Worked well. I had read somewhere else that using it with terrycloth towels on the headliner was the best method and that proved to work quite well. I followed up with some Febreze.

Now it's time to put the headliner back in. I'll be glad cuz I've missed having my sun visors and OnStar the last 2 months. Then the door panel and hopefully that's the end of the leaks for awhile. Still need to POR15 the rear floor pan. Then I'll be ready to put the carpets back. I'm going to wait till after the CDX project for that though. Not that I need to but you never know.

GXPete wrote:So I took one of the earlier suggestions and got the roof where I wanted it, where it looked like the best possible seal, then I dropped the motor, ran it to full stop and replaced it. Worked like a charm.

How come we can't getting any pics of this?

You know, funny you should say that. While I was putting the headliner back in I was thinking the same thing. But I just didn't think to stop and snap any. Anyway, there are so many of yours here I wouldn't be covering any new ground.

I've got one thing to say about the headliner - you think GM could have given us maybe another inch on the dang visor wires. That was the hardest part of the whole job, and the only part that I really had to get the wife in on. What a pain. But I sure am glad to get the headliner and gear back in. Everything got a good cleaning before reinstalling. I even disassembled all the grab handles and cleaned them up. One of them had some nasty hangar stains on it but it all came off with a little glass cleaner.

Question: What do you use to clean the leather/suede seats? I imagine anything you use on leather cannot come in contact with the suede and vice-versa?

Tomorrow I'll get the driver's door back together. Another question: what size and where for the green fasteners? That is, I'm not sure the person that installed the starter put the door back together correctly. Are there supposed to be just 2 long green fasteners on the bottom right and left or is the one in the middle on the bottom also supposed to be long. All the others short?

Use vinegar for cleaning the suede: http://www.pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/fo ... 14&t=12358

The way you described it is right, 2 long on the bottom, the middle short, and all the rest short.

Door panel back on. Speaker vibration and leak appear to be history.

Rear floor - before.


After POR15.

You should have taken off that seal... I guarantee there is rust under there as well.

That would have been very difficult. It's almost like the goo is vulcanized to the metal. I thought metal needed air to rust?

The seal isn't perfect, its not completed seated, especially in that narrow channel... at least on mine.

Oh well, its going to be better than before.

Yeah, if you'd said something before I would have tried to pull it up.

GXPete wrote:You know, funny you should say that. While I was putting the headliner back in I was thinking the same thing. But I just didn't think to stop and snap any. Anyway, there are so many of yours here I wouldn't be covering any new ground.

I've got one thing to say about the headliner - you think GM could have given us maybe another inch on the dang visor wires. That was the hardest part of the whole job, and the only part that I really had to get the wife in on. What a pain. But I sure am glad to get the headliner and gear back in. Everything got a good cleaning before reinstalling. I even disassembled all the grab handles and cleaned them up. One of them had some nasty hangar stains on it but it all came off with a little glass cleaner.

Question: What do you use to clean the leather/suede seats? I imagine anything you use on leather cannot come in contact with the suede and vice-versa?

Tomorrow I'll get the driver's door back together. Another question: what size and where for the green fasteners? That is, I'm not sure the person that installed the starter put the door back together correctly. Are there supposed to be just 2 long green fasteners on the bottom right and left or is the one in the middle on the bottom also supposed to be long. All the others short?

That, and make it fit through the rear door better without having to bend it!

Amen to that! I'm still amazed they hold the thing up with magnets and velcro.