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Morad

cool i hope it works out good for you it seems like a inexpensive replacement

Well I don't think I would say inexpensive replacement. It is going to cost be about $1,000 when it is all said and done. That doesn't seem like a lot, but that's almost my mortgage.

You sir, need an engine stand

harofreak00 wrote:You sir, need an engine stand

I was gonna say the same But the tire lookes like it'd doing the Job.

I don't see much on the bearings, a little trashy like you said but nothing looks toasted. I don't see any in the picture that looks like the notch was worn off as if a bearing had spun.

The Block and heads are lookin' great. That'll be a mighty fine lookin' engine bay under the hood. As if it wasn't before

SuperSLE wrote:Well I don't think I would say inexpensive replacement. It is going to cost be about $1,000 when it is all said and done. That doesn't seem like a lot, but that's almost my mortgage.

sorry i didn't mean it that way there is an lkq near me that can get long blocks shipped for about 400 dollars so assuming that it holds up good it would be a good replacement for me if my l67 blew

swampthing wrote:

SuperSLE wrote:Well I don't think I would say inexpensive replacement. It is going to cost be about $1,000 when it is all said and done. That doesn't seem like a lot, but that's almost my mortgage.

sorry i didn't mean it that way there is an lkq near me that can get long blocks shipped for about 400 dollars so assuming that it holds up good it would be a good replacement for me if my l67 blew

Yeah, I wish there was something a little closer to me. I called around. Shipping is what got me. The engine itself wasn't too bad. And it was the whole engine, not just the block so I have a few parts to sell off when I get this done to make up a little money . Morad always treats me right and this thing was super clean when I got it so I am pretty happy with it and it is pretty low mileage.

And yes, I do need an engine stand.

Put the heads on last night and torqued them down. Man I hope those things don't leak. I am really worried about them, but I put the T-tape on the studs, copper sprayed the gaskets with a few coats, used stock gasket replacements, and followed the torquing instructions perfectly. So they should be good. Also put the headers back on, lubed and put the lifters back in, pushrods and rocker arms, did the preload test on all the pushrods and tightened everything up. Will be changing over the oil pan to mine and changing the flywheel over and it should be good to go back in. I have to replace the heater core first though since it decided to go bad at the same time and start leaking in the dash, so while it is out it will be easier to get to the hoses and such.

Is the red the same shade as the other red under your engine bay? The pics of the engine looks almost orange compared to the red in your sig.

You should be fine with the heads. My friend who knows nothing about engines bolted the heads on his Regal with an old-school style torque wrench, didn't even follow the pattern and re-used the stock head bolts, and he had no problems.

Well it isn't a 100% match. The paint comes out a little orange in the photos, but it is red. Next to the coil packs and the wires it will probably look a little orange, but what are you going to do. They don't paint match engine enamel to my wires. Probably could, but it wouldn't be cheap.

It's coming along great Jared.
It should be a good strong engine now, with the added reliability of your touch.

Theres a few builds coming together in about a months time or less. I need to get my act together on mine

Coming along great there! That ought to realllly look good...and go good for that matter

I know, you ordered your stage 1 yet booze? /threadjack

Looks great, I'm sure the wifey will be glad to have "her" car back, and you can get off the bike, LOL

Spent most of today after work getting everything bolted on and I got further than I anticipated. I also had to replace a leaking heater core so I took advantage of the engine being out to get at the heater hoses easier and get that in before stuffing the engine back in.










And my heater core replacement under the dash.

is that last pic your heat exchanger for the w2a intercooler?

Nope, that is the heater core under my dash. Had to fix that too.

On a side note, are you a current WyoTech student? I lived in Laramie for a while and my brother still does.

Are the valve covers on wrong? To me it looks like the fill cap is towards the firewall.

myfirstbonnie wrote:Are the valve covers on wrong? To me it looks like the fill cap is towards the firewall.

Lots of people do that to make the engine bay look cleaner. I think I'm going to move mine back to the front when I top swap.

myfirstbonnie wrote:Are the valve covers on wrong? To me it looks like the fill cap is towards the firewall.

Oh, they aren't supposed to go on that way . . I was waiting for someone to say something. Yeah, I wanted them that way for the look. I just use a long funel to put the oil in the back side. A little pain, but the look is worth it to me.

ooOOoo. Shiny engine is SHINY! Looks good.