PontiacBonnevilleClub.com

A switch would be kinda neat.

Jason, I bought this knowing it would be a little more expensive parts wise. I think it's worth it, I've never had a problem paying for good quality, and I save money by doing what I can myself. But yeah, you know all too well about front wheel brake dust.

That doesn't do any damage (other than rear tires) does it?

Make sure to keep the old shift knob, the 330i ZHP came with alcantara shift boot and steering wheel when it was launched. The next year they were already moving back to leather for the steering wheel because they didn't last well in the real world.

BonneMe wrote:That doesn't do any damage (other than rear tires) does it?

Make sure to keep the old shift knob, the 330i ZHP came with alcantara shift boot and steering wheel when it was launched. The next year they were already moving back to leather for the steering wheel because they didn't last well in the real world.

Not that I am aware of. The fuse just keeps the clutch in the transfercase from engaging. There are a few threads on the Cadillac forum.

That is what I have heard about the alcantara but I looks good,

Well I kept something off the GXP and added it to the CTS


First nice day of the year! Got a lot of things done to the car this weekend.


And I found out about this


I read some more about pulling the AWD fuse and I don't see any documentation that it will hurt anything. I am adding an OEM backup camera from a 2011 CTS next.

Sweet! I really can't wait to see this car. You should get V wheels.

If I find a set for under 2 grand I would love to have them!

Keep looking, you never know!

Green grass, clean car!

1tinindian wrote: GM refers that engine (3.6) as their "High Feature V6", but at the dealership it is referred to as the "High Failure V6", at least those that are installed in the Traverses.
Too many mile between oil changes kill the timing chains.
Waters pump and P/S pump failures are also common.
I wish you the best of luck with yours.

The oldest son bought a CTS with 150K+ miles on it. The timing chain needed replacing. When the youngest son did replace it(them -3), it looked like the owner either never changed the oil or used the cheapest oil money could buy. It has 160k+ miles on it and is still running good. Maybe he just got "lucky". I know it's not transverse mounted, but I'd think when the engines are assembled, the engine plant wouldn't know if it was for a RWD or FWD vehicle.

Wife and I love the Dark Cherry color on the CTS, great looking car! - BC

Thanks! Any idea how hard the timing chain was?

sethjamesrimrodt wrote:Thanks! Any idea how hard the timing chain was?

I think CMNTMXR57 (Lane) would be the most helpful.

Here's what the youngest son did - IIRC

Be careful when you pull the sprocket off the crank as the index on the crank for the CPS to work is pressed on. If you damage it, you'll have to put in a new crank. other than that it's not too bad. Just make sure that all the sprockets, cams and crank are thoroughly marked. If you're not careful, they can move on you. My guess is that probably one out of every 30 jobs requires a new crank because the pressed on collar moved on the crank. Be sure and put something under where the crank sprocket is after you pull the timing chain cover off the keep trash and coolant out of the oil pan. If you know someone at the Cadillac dealership, you can get all the parts you need there cheaper than you can any where else, as a matter of fact, some of the parts, come only from the dealer, so it's cheaper just to buy the kit from the dealer, if you know someone that is. - BC

EDIT: Update:
This was done one year ago, so I am remembering bits and pieces.

You will need this tool to make sure the camshafts do not rotate yon you: GM Camshaft Retaining Tool Set EN-48383
http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/Camsha ... -48383.htm

Turn the crankshaft with your socket and ratchet until the #1 piston is at TDC with all valves closed (top of the power-stroke before the piston starts down). This should allow you to place the EN-48383 tool on the ends of the camshafts closest to the firewall. You will need "shims" to hold them in place (we used clean pieces of cardboard). Then mark all the sprockets (and old chains JIC). You will have to remove the crankshaft sprocket to remove any of the chains. The instructions tell you that you put the chain on the odd number bank first, then rotate the camshafts on the even number side. Don't. Only do that if you have allowed the marks and their locations to be moved. IIRC, this is an interference engine, so you have to be really certain it goes back together right.

youtube videos:
1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c49ORdlIsrY
2. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mlRX7x7CmIA
3. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwMLBv1gEbQ

Sorry I never noticed you added more to the post, great information thanks!

I can't decided spoiler or no spoiler

Looks nice - I vote for no spoiler though. It just looks out of place on a classier car with already clean crisp lines.

As of right now I'm agreeing with you Ben, I really liked the idea of a spoiler until I saw one in person.

No spoiler for me also!

I added drop springs a few months ago. I also put Camaro 20" tires on her. I am thinking about putting the factory rear springs back in??

Looks great

Those wheels look great!
Better tires on them too, I hope.

Leon

I dig it. Needs some Caddy center caps.

They look huge on it.

They are factory Camaro tires, Perrelli P Zeros.
I found 2 1/4" center caps on eBay.

[