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I think it's more the frames and transmissions that aren't going to work. The S3 engine is compatible with the older trans and cradle, etc, but the newer transmissions don't work in the older frames. I think this is where you're getting confused. The transmissions aren't called S3, just the engine. I think you're getting all the terminology confused.

And the rest of the parts are also not considered S3, as Ed pointed out, that's an engine designation, not a generation of car.

Swapping in a series 3 would be exactly like swapping in a series 2 with one exeption (that I can think of). That exeption is the throttle body. Series 3 uses electronic controlled throttle, series 2 uses cable controlled throttle. Most guys who use series 3 will simply bolt a series 2 throttle body on or a northstar throttle body and be done with it.

As stated, the transmission has nothing to do with the engine other than weather the bellhousing bolt patterns will fit or not. You can use a 4T60, a 4T65, or even a newer tap-shift trans (I forget the name of that one). Appropriate wirring is required for each trans. I am bolting an F40 manual 6 speed to a series 2 just to give you an idea of the mix and match possibilities.

But this is all straying away from your topic, and you have your mind made up. Don't at all feel like the series 2 is a bad choise, it's not. It is a great engine, it's very strong, plenty powerful in stock form and lots of mods available.

As for the oil pump and timing cover, like 00Beast said, you will want to replace both. The cover is the housing of the pump and the scoring in the cover is unacceptable for reuse. You can either buy new, or there used to be a guy selling low mileage assemblies on ebay.

This thread may be helpfull to you... viewtopic.php?f=19&t=17392&p=185035#p185035

Got my block back and a hone took out the score mark everything else checks out good. I took my heads in shortly after receiving all my 105 spring parts and both heads are cracked... from valve to valve apparently. I still have to go in and look at them and discuss options. I might be looking at something from intense/zzp/wbs but I'll wait before I drop 1k I'll have to do some reading on reviews and threads.
A bunch of parts have been accumulating and will be painting the block pretty soon. Hard to find time these days, but hopefully progress will pick up in the next month.

Junkyard heads will be your best bet.

You bought cylinder heads from a car that had probably been severely overheated. Go get a high-mileage used motor with certified compression for $350, take the heads, and recycle the block, crank, camshaft, and valves for $50-$75. Send those heads to the shop. Ideally, you want 98-newer heads.

I'll sell you a good set of low mileage heads for $50.

Pretty sure shipping something like that to Ontario would be expensive as hell....

Yup, but if he wants em, I got em.

Shipping anything accross the boarder is expensive, which is why I have everything shipped to the UPS store just across the boarder. Let me know what its going to take to get them to the UPS store at:
2981 FORD ST EXTENSION
OGDENSBURG, NY 13669
315-393-1188
They recieve and hold packages for 5 bucks. Once I come back into canada, if the boarder officer feels its worth taxing then I pay tax, otherwise I drive right through. Harofreaks piston is there waiting for me... might be going this weekend.
Let me know what those will cost to get there.
Thanks!

Heads received from haro! Thanks! They've also been to the shop and back and look great. Painted them up and they await install.
I have loaded the S1X cam into the block, pistons, bearings and main caps. I was a little disappointed with the S1X cam. Heres why, the cam bolt boss was extremely dirty. So dirty that the bolt wouldn’t even rotate 1/2 a thread. I dont know what it was or how it was even possible, my stock cam is clean as a whistle. And then they dont include the cam key?!?com'on for 350 bucks... Good thing I hung onto my stock cam!
anyways, its in now.

I have a questions, the rear main seal bolts has this what look to be a 1/4" length of a silicon tube seal at the head of the bolt. Is this replaceable with thread sealant? Or should I source a silicon tube of some sort to refresh them. All of mine are cracked and I would imagine they would leak oil.

I want to buy headers. P-log or zzp 2 piece headers. I like 2 piece for lack of joints, but dont like the fact that there is practically no reviews with the bonnie, trial and errors... ZZP tells me to just buy the weld on dp and everything will be fine... anyone?

Those plastic sleeves on the bolts are to allow play in the rear cover. There is a tool that is slid over the crank that aligns the rear cover. Then another tool is used to install the seal. If not done properly, you will have an oil leak from the rear main.

viewtopic.php?f=26&t=25652

Go full headers. If you wanna go cheap the Speed Daddy or SSAC headers from e-bay will work fine with a little fabrication.

ahhh that makes sense. I already have the tools required to align and install the new seal, just wasnt to sure about those plastic bits, which I thought they were rubber of some sort. I'll have to have a better look at them next time.

beast-Not looking to chase down exhausts leaks on this build!!! My regal had speed daddy's and that all I ever heard!!! I was also leaning towards full headers, thanks!

whats the interchangability between W-body headers and H-bodys? I know its just the down pipe that exits slightly offset, and the only fabrication required is to weld on the DP right? I just need someone to confirm this so that i can press the add to cart button!!!

My sped daddys fit pretty easily, the only thing I noticed was the rear header exited a touch higher than id have liked.

Actually, I'll have to retract my previous statement about the speed daddys being that I wasnt the one that installed them. I bought the regal with them.

Well if you don't wanna go with the less expensive headers, TOG's are $800 if you can find them new somewhere (went out of business), or around $600 used, SLP's are around $750 new, $500 used, Pacesetter's are around $650 new and $450 used. Obviously the prices depend on coatings and condition on the used ones. Neither the SLP's nor the Pacesetters are perfect, so expect a bit of finagling or fabrication on them too.

I managed to grab some new ZZP headers cheap, 535 shipped with a 3"dp. The DP is for the GP though, which I
can probably sell.

So I got to porting my outlet and looking for opinions:



or comments, or flamming...
I had a machine shop perform the removal of the humps at the base and the H bar. I cleaned up the rough casting around the outlets and silencers. I tried not to increase the outlet size, same for the silencers. Everythings been sanded down to a 320 grit, which feels very smooth. I also tried to taper out the edges so that they werent a sharp 90*, they are decently rounded. But I've seen some with a mirror polish and wondering if I need to continue.
Before someone says it, I know I still have to install the helical threads.

looks awesome... cant wait to see this thing on the road!!!

Thanks Bruce.
I'll need to update this thread as much has happened since my last post.